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Pinto Cam?


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That makes sense. Read on Turbosport though , that is not the best way to set it up. One guy said find TDC then set inlet to 3/5ths open on overlap then another guy said have the inlet and exhaust even at overlap on TDC. but surely by doing any of those two methods at TDC the valves would contact the piston?..

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Guest 2b cruising

Bang on Bob.

TDC firing no1is setting roughly for none adjustable drive pulley and it works well.

2nd option is for correct timing on TDC exhaust stroke after inlet valve is ready to open.

As uncle Bob says, you can't beat the manual for accuracy.

On any engine I would choose option followed by the rolling road for true adjustment to suit part worn part new engine and ignition system.

It's the only way you will get full benefit from any cam in any engine to suit its worn parts.

Might be a tad expensive but the rewards are worth every penny.😊👍

Edited by 2b cruising
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Hi Bob,

 

Yes I've got an adjustable pulley. I've never done anything like this before just learning as I go! Bottom end is fully rebuilt along with the head and cam. Just pondering on how best to time this fr32 up. If I find TDC on one on the compression stroke , then set crank to 108. Then set number one inlet to max lift and bolt together it should be ok?

 

Thanks for all the replies

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Guest 2b cruising

Don't forget. ALWAYS turn engine over at least twice by hand after any cam adjustment.

If it comes to any resistance, do NOT force it. Something is wrong with your timing, and a valve is contacting a piston.

That is of coarse if the engine is of the interference type. ie, valves hit Pistons if cam belt breaks.

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Guest 2b cruising

Will do thanks. Does that setup sound ok to you? I have a place with a rolling road just around the corner so it will going to them for fine adjustment .

Cheers Andy

Tuning to TDC will get you running and do no damage at all.

Make sure your pulley is set to centre of adjusting slots to give them max travel in each direction.

You won't go wrong getting it rolling road adjusted as long as the tuner understands your system.

Snapper is not wrong but every engine breathes and fuels slightly different to their brothers.

Crankcase pressures and lots of other things can effect so rolling road is best.

Spending lots of wonga and time building an engine deserves the best you can afford.

Regards. Ken.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Ken's (2B cruising) advice is spot on. Kent quote 108, but that will be the start point. The RR will adjust as necessary,

a little more advance can increase the top HP but reduce torque, guess what retarding it will do?

Personally I'd set it up as you suggest, then assemble the head onto the block, then do the fine adjustment.

You will find it difficult to keep the cam on full lift, the spring will probably move the camshaft.

Once thats done, make sure the dizzy is set up to match the cam, its very easy to get it 180 degs out.

If so the easiest fix is swap the HT leads 180 degs.

 

For £15 joining the club will get you a list of members nearby, many will offer to help in exchange for

tea & hobnobs. Some may even know what they are doing......

Edited by Bob Tucker
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