Engine Rebuild - Advice Wanted

[Guest Boost]

Hello, not posted for a while! Got bored yesterday and curiosity got the better of me. Having bought the MK Indy earlier this year I had no idea what the state of the engine was, so with a few hours in the garage I took it to bits!

 

Found a few issues - 2 of the nuts that lock the rocker adjusters were loose, the seal around the rear of the crank was not fitted right (source of small oil leak), the cam belt tension adjuster was very rusty, and the bore in No.1 cylinder has a mark around it. The latter two issues I think have been due to the engine been stood for a long while. Plus the oil pick up pipe strained was almost blocked!

 

I have gapped the top ring from No.4 piston and the gap measures 1mm! too much according to the manual!

 

A few Pics for you, Then a few questions...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll post rest of pics in another post as It won't let me put them all in this one!

 

 

So, do I re-bore and fit new +0.5mm or +1mm pistons or just get some new rings? The mark in the No.1 bore leans me towards a rebore.

 

With it in bits it will be easy to fit a different cam, how can I tell what the current cam is and if the head is an injection one? I'm going to strip the valves out and check/re-lap in if all OK.

 

I don't want to spend a fortune but just have a nice reliable engine that has a bit more grunt than standard.

 

So I'm thinking re-bore, +1mm? New cam - Which one? Clean ports up - just polish out casting marks.

 

Compression ratio is where I'm out of my comfort zone, so if I rebore to +1mm am I right in thinking this will higher the CR (more volume to squash) What should it be or what should I be aiming for? How the hell is this all worked out? Which I assume will bring the head gasket thickness into things - which one would be best?

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards.........Sean.

[Guest Boost]

 

 

 

 

[Guest peter2b2002]

that filter looks like metal particles , I would go for a re bore also check the big ends and cam for damage

peter2b

[Guest mower man]

1 fit a new oil pump

2 a complete clean inside and out chemical if pos

3 choice of cam is very wide ,I had great sucess with a Newman stage 2 on my 2.1 [ 144 bhp at the crank ] but there are others

4 skip the std ign fit either Accuspark or if funds allow mega jolt or sim

5 std pistons are ok up to 10.5 to 1 cr after that can be iffy

obviously new crank bearings ,cam brgs and use lots of patience !!! good luck! mick

[Snapperpaul]

With a standard non adjustable cam sprocket fitted I assume standard cam.

If it is an aftermarket cam the cam type will be stamped on the rear of the cam.

With a standard engine an overbore will increase compression but not by much, you can still use a thinner but stronger Rhienz gasket with no issues.

To get close to 10 to 1 would require a head skim

The Pinto loves compression but as Mowerman says 10.5 to 1 is the safe limit

 

I have an excel spread sheet that lets you add the numbers to find compression ratio

You will need

Bore size ( not piston size)

Distance piston is below block height at TDC ( you can add a positive number or 0 if piston is above or flush) yours will be between 0.5mm & 0.25mm most are 0.382mm below deck.

Gasket crushed thickness

Head combustion chamber volume

 

Squish is the area around the combustion chamber that is flat but exposed to the piston ( bore bigger than combustion chamber) that the mixture is squished into, this is only relevant when the piston to head distance at TDC is below 1mm

The piston to head distance for a road car should be no nearer than 0.9mm although some push this to 0.75, it is also rpm dependant as the rods stretch more at high rpm.

That should be enough to be getting on with.

 

1 last bit of info

An injection head is better and will release 5 to 10bhp

[Bob Tucker]

 

 

and if the head is an injection one?

A carb head has circular inlet ports, the injection ones

are pear shaped.

[Guest lotusPaul]

Cosworth head is ok, even in NA form.But honestly get a book on building Pintos.cheap and full of advice and tips on parts selection and preparing for a long life motor.

[Gusty]

Hi,

 

On YouTube there is a guy called greasemonkeygarage Watson who rebuilds an RS2000 engine (2.0 pinto) in 12 videos and explains everything. It's brilliant and worth a look.

 

Cheers Andy

[Gusty]

Oh, HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!!

[Guest Boost]

Thanks for the advise guys

Checked cam and the markings on the end are KCFR32 see pic..

 

 

So bonus there,

 

Just been online shopping as we are not going out tonight!

 

Set of KC High Comp Pistons

Oil pump

Core plugs

Full gasket set

Reinz head gasket

Oil pump

Water pump

Cam belt & Tensioner

 

All being well will get some measuring on head done soon then can work out CR.

 

Happy New Year!

Edited December 31, 2015 by Boost

[Guest 2b cruising]

You are definately going the right way about things.

Looks like you will have a happy new year.

[Snapperpaul]

FR32 cam, bike carbs, Injection head and as much compression as you dare should see 130bhp

 

If you don't have a vernier cam pulley you really need one to dial in the cam it you won't get the full power that the cam can deliver.

 

One last thing, ignition curve, the standard dizzy will not ramp up quick enough, giving a lumpy idle or loss of top end.

Many solutions, some adjust the standard dizzy with springs and bending the stops, others fit Accuspark with a variety of switchable maps, I like Megajolt.

[Guest lotusPaul]

That's a very good start..Start with the basics..and do it well..bore it out and gap the rings to keep all that extra compression in where it should be. Good cam you got there, dial it in properly so go buy a Kent wheel to match it or you will reget it. The pinto is a good basic block but "detail" the added extras. Take off all the casting marks from the inside and make sure you clean all the components well before you install them.

something that's over looked, get it balanced by a proper machine shop. The smoothness is Unbelievable in comparison.

Again on the head remove all the casting marks and clean out all the passageways. Again basics.you can port match it to the gaskets you are going to use and blend in the first 15 to 20mms. Also carefully clean up the combustion chamber and the area behind the valves. It's not a full port and polish job but with a bit of careful diy in the right place you will get a good increase in usable air flow..If your new to this then do the exhaust first and get it nice and smooth..shiny even. The intake needs a little roughness to aid mixing.

 

Do all the above on any engine.but in a 2.0 / 2.1pinto with the right intake, cam, AND exhaust manifold too ( often overlooked dramatically ) you should be seeing 160 plus.

 

ignition has been said before. I favour Aldon ignitor 2 over others due to my experience with them. No reason not to stick with the dizzy just go electronic.

 

hope it helps.

[Guest Boost]

Been busy lapping in valves all day! You answered one of my next questions Vernier Cam Sprocket - I'll get one ordered.

 

Next question is about the main and big end bearings - I've inspected them all, which was one of the main objectives. They are all perfect, no marks, or signs of wear, do I replace them or carefully re-fit them? I'm planning to refit unless advised otherwise.

 

Ignition - The dizzy has a electronic, lumenition conversion I think. As it is on bike carbs the vacuum was disconnected. Will this suffice?

[Snapperpaul]

I've responded to your message

Just to add if the bearings look good and we're giving good oil pressure just refit well oiled should be ok.

Any doubt use plastigauge