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Timing...


jaimo

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I took dizzy out and fixed/sealed vac pipe now it works refitted dizzy with tdc set up on crank and cam and rotorwarm at about 7 oclock

Fitted new cap. Arm and leads firing order etc ok got it running and tunned by ear

Took it down road feels ok little down on go but rebuilt engine so could be tight new rings pistons etc (would tha explain heavy rocker cap breathing through catch tank )

When checked with timing light was running about 20+ adv basically well past crank pulley marks

This was at idle with vac pipe connected

Retarded it to about 12 btdc again with vac pipe on and no pull whats so ever so put it back does this sound right

Does it matter where number 1 plug lead is as long as its where rotor arm tip is

Edited by jaimo
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From haynes manual:

ignition timing at idle with vac pipe disconnected

2.0 carb engine pre 1985 on 95 ron unleaded 4 degrees btdc

2.0 carb engine from 1985 on 95 ron unleaded 6 degrees btdc

2.0 fuel injection engine on 95 ron unleaded 8 degrees btdc

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Make sure it's on compression stroke on 1 with crank at TDC. ( number 1 plug out with finger over hole . Rotate crank towards TDC should feel air pushing past your finger) if not your on exhaust stroke and 180 degrees out. If the above is correct then rotor arm should be pointing and firing on one. Hope this helps

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Guest 2b cruising

Quick answer to that Mick. Yes.

Two reasons. It would make this thread a lot shorter.

you could put his timing right first time.

you might also explained to him what happens if a piston ring is broken, or when a home honing tool is used in a not so

round or worn bore. A compression test might prove this but not necessarily.

Another loss power cause could be wrongly jetted carb. I had a 3 litr in a Cortina that someone tried to get better mpg

from.

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Ford said that the dizzy should be fitted with the rotor arm at about 4 o'clock when number 1 piston is at TDC. (That's looking down on the dizzy while you are standing just to the rear of the left front wheel) It just makes life harder finding where number 1 lead should go if you fit it in a different orientation. Plus someone else looking at it will be disoriented. Why wouldn't you just remove the dizzy, rotate it to the correct position, re-fix and then time it up correctly. Try 8 BTDC with the timing light at idle, vacuum disconnected and blocked.

 

Nigel

Edited by Longboarder
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Mick its running ok

Ken the bottom end was done before i got it

I origimaly had it at 4 oclock and wouldnt have it

If the cam pointer is at bottom pointing up to dot on head that is compression stroke isnt it

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Guest 2b cruising

Correct. But don't use this on timing as degre readings will not be the same as ford spec.

Only use crankshaft pulley for timing up engine. Either static or running.

The engine might have been pre built, but funny things can happen.

I thought you mentioned earlier that it was down on one cylinder.

Why do you say it is breathing a lot.

Is it throwing oil or oil smoke out of the breather, or is it just chuffing through the filler.

If it's just the filler option, ohc engines do this anyway.

Only worry if it's out the breather. If it is, somethings wrong with the build up.

Buy tractors old Zeneca and be very nice to him.

He might even have time to help you swap over.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Guest mower man

As discussed you need to bin the breathing filler cap fit anon breather type and fit a bulkhead fitting at the rear of cambox , the catch tank you have is too, small the coffee pot i gave you is the same as i used on my car with no problems ,as before go slow and do one thing at once, pintos can be heavy breathers the tank has to have enough volume to drop the pressure a little, will talk to you next month mick :crazy:

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