Superspec Not Starting

[deano266]

Hi guys.

 

My 2.0l rover t series engined superspec isn't starting after a complete rewire.

 

I can get it to turn over but not fire. I have a wire from the coil to the ECU ignition sense pin and everything is earthed including the coil (I am getting 12v across it) and the ECU.

 

The fuel pump is definitely working and the relay for the ECU is wired up to the battery.

 

Any ideas of what's stopping it starting

[alanrichey]

I'm guessing you haven't wired it up correctly. Have you wired everything up according to the wiring diagram issued by Robin Hood ? And the various wiring diagrams that AndyW and I have sent you ?

 

Did you ever build an interface cable for my diagnostic program ? That would rule out any sensor failures.

 

If not then https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAPTOP-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-LEAD-ROVER-MINI-1-3-SPI-MEMS-1-6-MEMSGAUGE-MEMSANALYSER/282904085542?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49138%26meid%3Df6ba9161d24e413fbfeba337c99f73dd%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D282876643857%26itm%3D282904085542&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

Edited April 7, 2018 by alanrichey

[deano266]

I never got the robin hood issued wiring diagram.

 

I have been using the wiring diagrams supplied by you and Andy which have been invaluable as it helped me identify what each sensor wire was and also to wire in the ignition sensing to the correct place

[Longboarder]

 

everything is earthed including the coil

??None of the terminals on a coil go direct to earth. 12v to + or 15 terminal. The other terminal is earthed but only through whatever switching circuit you are using, be it points, ECU etc. To leave it constantly earthed means it is in a steady state and it will happily sit there like a pudding doing nothing to provide a spark.

[alanrichey]

I never got the robin hood issued wiring diagram.

 

I have been using the wiring diagrams supplied by you and Andy which have been invaluable as it helped me identify what each sensor wire was and also to wire in the ignition sensing to the correct place

 

That explains it then. There are quite a few 'changes' RHE made to the standard Rover wring system. if you haven't implemented them then the car will never start,. I'll see if I can make some usable photos of the relevant parts.

[alanrichey]

OK, here is the important bit. There are lots more on the diagram but they are mainly to do with lights/instrument cluster....

 

Note in particular that the coil has ignition switched +12V on one side and the other side goes to Pin 25 on the ECU. And the ecu ignition sense (Pin 11) is actually fed by the +12V ignition-switched line (Makes sense). Nothing like what you have done.

 

But you REALLY need my software to check if the Crankshaft Position Sensor is working as well.

 

AL

 

Edited April 8, 2018 by alanrichey

[deano266]

Alan. You my friend are a superspec guru. Put that wire from coil -ve to the ECU and first time fired up. It's great to hear her roar again.

 

I will definitely get one when I get paid though.

[alanrichey]

Good The fact that she runs means that the critical sensors, Crankshaft Position Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor (I assume you revved her a bit) but you now need to check if the remaining sensors (Lambda, Coolant Temp, Fuel temp, Intake Temp, MAP sensor, knock sensor...) are all working, and you can't do that without analysing the output from the ECU.

 

When you rewired the lambda sensor did you make sure to use screened cable on the signal wire ?

 

As usual I will have my software at Stoneleigh so assuming you are going we can test it again.

 

Al

[deano266]

The lambda wires weren't connected properly on the initial start up so probably wouldn't of made too much of a difference hopefully.

 

Most of the original wiring was left in but I haven't got any shielded wire. Will this make much difference.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I should be able to move the car out and get around the car easier

[alanrichey]

This was my lambda sensor before I rewired it:

 

 

And after I rewired it with the signal wire shielded'

 

 

'nuff said ?

[deano266]

It looks like that will be on the shopping list.

 

Also where does the thin wire from the alternator go to as when I disconnected everything it just went to nothing.

[AndyW]

Dean, according to my MEMS wiring diagrams, the lambda sensor, knock sensor and crank sensor should all have screened wires. Presumably they all generate very small voltages which can suffer interference. The screening foil is normally within the engine loom wiring, and the foil itself earths to ECU pin 29. If you've replaced the engine loom you'll have to make your own screening. Oh, and only one end of the screen must be earthed.

 

The thin alternator wire goes to one side of the alternator warning light. Pin 7 blue connector if you are still using the Escort instruments.

 

Cheers, Andy

[deano266]

I don't have the escort instrument cluster. Does this mean I can leave it off or does it need to go to a bulb (led or filament) to make the alternator work properly

[alanrichey]

Difficult to answer. I know you have replaced the alternator so it may be the self-exciting type. The ones originally fitted to the Superspec were not self-exciting so needed a small current flow through the windings (provided by the alternator warning light, filament type) to start working. Easiest way to find out is to measure the alternator output when the engine is running. If it is 13-14V then it is probably self-exciting.

 

But do you not want a warning light on the dash ?.

[deano266]

I had the car sat idling and the battery was at a nice 14.something volts (it kept fluctuating but not by much. In terms of a dash light were not too fussed but it would also take away from the clean look we want across the dash we are going.

 

This rewire job is alot more involved than I probably expected. Probably due to having the rover engine and ford other bits as the engine loom on the new wiring is going to be left redundant for the most part