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Keith Cooper

Super spec clutch cable

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I have Rover T series engine and MT75 gearbox... clutch is really heavy, I was going to replace the clutch cable can anyone tell me the best cable to get

 

Thankyou

 

keith 

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Yes, it’s a Quinton Hazel no. QCC1303 for a Fiat Ducato diesel 1982-86. Think it’s about 1700mm long with eye for pedal end and threaded rod for clutch lever.  I lubricated mine with ptfe spray before fitting to try to ease the heavy clutch. 

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Don't expect miracles though.  The Superspec clutch is heavy by design.😀  

Also, make sure you do a proper search on the forum for "Superspec Clutch"  (Include the inverted commas).  Not only would it have told you what clutch cable to get but it is a mine of information about the whole system.   For example, why it rattles, why the speedo over-reads by 10%.....

If you can tell us your engine number (it's on the V5) we can tell you what car the engine was destined for.   Makes ordering bits a lot easier.

Edited by alanrichey

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I’m new on here and only just purchased my first kit car.... Robin Hood Super spec I purchased it with the plate RH04 CAR... very cool... just a few bits to sort like the very heavy clutch and some poor wireing modifications where the stereo was fitted but I guess that’s now for me to rectify... also the exhaust is REALLY noisy in fact it’s hard to talk to the person next to you is that normal or can it be muffled a bit....?

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Edited by Keith Cooper

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I remember the car appearing on E-Bay, and I suggested he tell the new owner to join the Club 😀

Based on that number your engine was destined for a 1995, manual, non-turbo Rover 200/400 without air conditioning,   I thought for one moment that your engine was the youngest of the 14 we currently have in the Club, but in fact you have you have the 4th youngest engine.  The good news is that it was very late in the production run so you have all the upgrades fitted.  Only 1500 engines more were built after mine before the Company removed the distributor and moved to wasted spark, MEMS 1.9 and a new flywheel.

Where are you located (your header has your e-mail address as your location) ?   We can then find out if anyone is close to you.

Also, almost every Superspec we have checked so far has a failed/miswired lambda sensor, so you need to check yours.   All the information you need is on my Website under the MEMSAnalyser link.   (http://www.rmrsoft.com).   Although most of us have the equipment so if you are near someone they can lend you a cable.   If you aren't close I can post a cable to you.  Without a working sensor your chances of meeting the emissions standards at the MOT drop from extremely unlikely to impossible.

Assuming you have the standard Superspec with the built-in cat and silencer inside the heat shield I wouldn't worry.  My MOT man says "It sounds like a sports car".   I just wear earplugs or headphones if I am going on a long trip.

Al

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Forgot to mention you need to be careful mounting the clutch cable to the pedal.   Check out my blog (in the signature block) for instructions Post 2.   Do it wrong and you will guarantee it will break.

Edited by alanrichey

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Thanks Alan, very useful info, .. I have changed my location on my profile .... I live in Wallington, Surrey... , the car just went through an MOT in March so I assume the Lambda sensor is ok...

 

regards 

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This Foram is excellent, especially for Kit Car newbie like me..... 

Thankyou :)

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That's good news about the MOT.    Still might be useful to run my diagnostic program though.   If you PM me your address I can pop my spare data lead in the post to you.   Meanwhile I'll send you a copy of the software so you can play around with it.

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Looking at the photo of your engine bay, is that the clutch cable in a silver sleeve going across the top of the engine? If so, it's too short and will make the entry points to the pedal box and the engine plate ahead of the clutch lever, very sharp. That can't be helping your heavy clutch.  You need to make the cable run into the entry and exit points as straight as possible, which means looping it around the front of the engine. And as Al says, make sure you have a linkage that allows a straight run onto the clutch pedal as that's where they normally fray and snap.

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Also I see you have the original RH coolant plumbing with the small loop return pipe (or heater loop if you have one) going across the top of the engine into the centre of the radiator. We found this leads to slow engine warmup so I did a redesign as per the attached diagram which is more like the original Rover system. I now get a 7-10 minute warm up and no problems with overheating.

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Yes your correct that is the clutch cable, it’s obviously been changed before and for some reason they have fitted a small cable and put some heat protective cover on it, it’s so short the cable cuts across and over the engine.... it doesn’t look great either, it’s very hard to push down and very short, so pulling away in traffic is more like having a switch for a clutch either on or off......, your diagram is brilliant and very useful,... thank you I will change the cooling pipe.

believe it or not the car has only done 2500 miles, I have all the MOTs and history, it’s basically just been used as a show car

some poor wiring behind the dash with various odd wires used in the past for other radios etc, I will need to tidy all of that up, the multi-plugs that go into the back of the clocks are also quite loose and vibrate out so I will also need to find. Way to hold them in better.

lots of stuff to get into but I’m looking forward tinkering and making the car better :)

this forum is super helpful for novices like me.... thank you :)

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Yes, that looks fine.   As Andy said, it's long enough to go round the front of the engine.   It's important to avoid the exhaust manifold when it is installed, I use a couple of cable ties to keep it away from the pipes.

Edited by alanrichey

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