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Fan switch


zhap135
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26 minutes ago, RedTrev said:

There's more than one way to skin a cat, but the top hose method works for me. I have a 2.0L Pinto with an old school Kenlowe capillary controller (don't know if you can still get them?), the setting is half way between the "N" and the "H"; what that equates to numerically I don't know, but I know the fan comes on in traffic on a hot day 😆. It has never overheated so far 🤞. The dial allows you to set the operating temp yourself. It's also a high current switch so (for mine) no fan relay was needed (unless your fan draws more current than the switch rating).

So there is an adjustable that CBS sell, have been chatting to them. At the top seems to be consensus (still think it should be at the bottom, but I'll go with the top so I can say "told you so" whilst I'm waiting for the AA😂), and there is a probe that looks like it can just be tucked into the duct at the union with the rad.

I've got a relay on the FB, and have already run the leads so might as well use it.

Thanks Trev!

A

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Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, RedTrev said:

Here's a similar one:

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/thermostatic_fan_for_radiator_fans

It looks like that one comes with a relay anyway 👍

Aaah, that looks like a very similar setup to to the CBS, but they only supply the stat itself for about the same cost.

Tell me, did you mount the dial on the dash, or leave it in the engine bay?

Edited by zhap135
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12 minutes ago, zhap135 said:

Tell me, did you mount the dial in the cabin, or leave it in the engine bay?

Mine's in the engine bay; the length of the capillary tube restricts how far the controller/dial can be away from the rad/hose. 

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4 hours ago, RedTrev said:

Mine's in the engine bay; the length of the capillary tube restricts how far the controller/dial can be away from the rad/hose. 

I though that might be the case, and although it may be useful on the dash, it (the CBS one at least) looks plug ugly

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Posted (edited)
On 7/9/2021 at 6:20 AM, alanrichey said:

I would have to disagree with that I think.  The fan is there to prevent the engine overheating, so my logic would be that you want to be monitoring the hottest part of the system. Otherwise you could be getting cylinder head damage while the output from the bottom of the radiator is still within limits.  So I have my switch in the top hose.  However I have to admit that the original switch on the Superspec was built into the bottom of the radiator (it uses a rad from a Rover SD1), so maybe I’m talking rubbish 😀

So it seems that I'm definitely wrong and the received wisdom is at the top in the outfeed.

Also by the by, have just wired in a stat switch in to  the CBS 12 mod relay - in this case it is fed by the switched feed, so when the engine's off so is the fan. I don't have a particular view on this - my main thing was to use the existing feed, fuse and relay so I could avoid putting a separate one in.

IMG_20210711_171341861.jpg

Edited by zhap135
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I have a Fiat rad in mine which has a sensor in the bottom, it’s a lower temperature sensor but can’t remember what value, has worked fine for donkeys years. I thought the good thing about that was if you had lost water there should always be some in the bottom of the rad not necessarily in the top hose. The indicator light problem mentioned had happened to me, queuing to get into Stoneley, I couldn’t work out why it started boing over when the fan was running, well the light was on but the fan earth had come undone.

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