Jump to content

Maiden Voyage !


Guest Friar Tuck

Recommended Posts

Guest Friar Tuck

Well, I have finally fitted the plates, and the replacement Turbo hose, and with the first weekend that we haven't had rain, today was maiden voyage day!!

 

Fortunately, no such problems as Dredd had with the brakes and steering, but just one niggle with the clutch!

 

At one junction, I found it hard to select gears, and ended up having to do a few miles with only 5th available! Got home, and found that there was a considerable amount of play on the clutch cable outer, so adjusted it, and went out again.This happened a couple of times during the trip, and got worse as I got closer to home. where I found that there was a bit more play again!

 

I have two nuts on the threaded end of the cable, and they are definitely not moving.

 

Would you expect the cable to stretch over about 40 miles or so?

 

I am also not entirely happy with where the cable goes through the actuator arm.

 

How does the Sierra cable terminate, and am I missing some kind of adapter?

 

Mrs Tuck is over the moon with the car, although she did comment that it was a bit quick, and I have to say that my grin is about as wide as it can get.

 

I love it !!!

 

Friar Tuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Friar Tuck

I will have a look at that Rizla

 

It runs down between the Turbo and the block, maybe it needs some knd of heat shield.

 

Thanks for that .

 

Ain't it great having a car to play with !!!!!

 

Tuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest mark kingston

:D i had similar problems with the 2b in its early days it turned out to need insulating from the heat in the area by the exhaust manifold as the outer plactic cable was getting hot and collapsing.

regards

mark kingston :lol: :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

had problems on the cossie rally car snapping clutch cables, found out it was heat from the turbo, try re-routing as far away as poss and adding some heat shielding, we got some slip on stuff from demon thieves.

 

steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used a plumbers soldering mat to insulate the clutch cable.

Wrap it round and round the cable and secure with jubilee clips.

It seems to be ok and its cheap as chips.

 

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done Friar - get some miles under your belt to make sure the gremlins are discovered and dealt with! I managed just a dozen miles today after getting the brakes sorted. Trouble is now that my speedo has stopped working again :angry: :angry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Friar Tuck

Thanks for the suggestions, I hadn't thought of heat being the problem, but I will try a Plumbers mat.

There isn't much room between the wastegate and the block, but I think I will be able to get one in, and I know how effective they are from my own plumbing jobs !

 

Sorry to hear of your speedo problems Dredd, I got a new purple gear for mine on Thursday, but haven't fitted it yet, just wqanted to get on the road!

 

Cheers lads

 

Friar Tuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest gordon_macnab

I think you'd be better off re-routing away from the turbo, the heat produced by a turbo is massive even with normal driving.

I had problems with mine even with the clutch cable wrapped in exhaust wrap it couldn't take the heat.

Better of with a longer cable and route it as far away as possible.

Look out for the clutch being stiff for the first press after the cars cooled down this is the cable breaking free from the innner sheath which has melted around it.

 

Gordon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done Derek

 

From what I saw this morning,would'nt have believed it possible!!!!!

 

I managed just a dozen miles today after getting the brakes sorted. Trouble is now that my speedo has stopped working again

 

Cheers Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Friar Tuck

Gordon

 

I wish I could route it away from the Turbo, but between the wastegate and the block is the only route possible with the T series engine.

 

Heat shielding is the only option open to me unless I do a conversion to hydraulic operation. Maybe that is an option to research.

 

 

Dave R

Aesthetics are not an issue, it will be tucked away out of view, just like the engine number !!

 

Cheers

 

The Friar

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Friar Tuck

Peter

 

It already does that !

 

Out of the pedal box, round the front of the engine, then dips down behind the dipstick tube, and between the wastegate actuator and the block, then through the adaptor plate to the actuating arm.

 

No choices at all with route, it just needs protection !

 

Thanks for your suggestion though

 

The Friar

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...