Snapperpaul

More details, what engine?

Porting yes

Polishing no

It is possible to modify any part of the monocoque cars what you need to understand is that the tunnel and outer folded sides are integral to the strength of the cars

You can't just cut and move any of these areas without replacing the lost strength as the original configuration of folded panels has an element of stiffness built in.

I would suggest that the tunnel would need a frame fitting from boot floor through to engine bulkhead.

My modifications for SVA are well documented and it proved to me the Monocoques are marginal at best.

If I was to do a car like this again I would use a Haynes roadster rear diff carrier and double wishbone frame with a central spine along the tunnel meeting with a frame at the bulkhead

Under floor ladder would connect the rear suspension frame to the front bulkhead and also connect inboard with the tunnel frame.

Most of this could be modular

Fixed seat is fine

You will need to spread he load of the mountings using large load spreading washers, plates or fixed bars

The problem is usually fitting seat runners that don't move smoothly.

You have the best base engine, stronger rods and a better flowing head with the injection spec engine.

The 32/36 if it's not covered in the electronic emissions stuff will work out of the box.

Bike carbs are cheaper and better than DCOE's IMHO but all non standard fuel systems will need setting up

Is the blue pipe hard wall or silicon?

Silicon will dissolve in petrol

You've got nothing to loose by just nipping up a bit more

Check manual as I think they say to check after so many miles and that will give you a torque or an angle to work with

If no info I woul use a torque wrench to see what 1/8th extra turn needs and use torque wrench to deliver the same torque to all bokts

I originally had overheating issues, it was not just 1 thing but many each adding to a very frustrating journey

The biggest difference was an upgrade from the Robin Hood Coolman radiator (twin 27 core) to a Bradford radiators twin 40 core.

Other measures already in place are 82 degree thermostat and large electric push fan.

An oil cooler with thermostat adds extra cooling and a recent header tank install has now given a good margin with even my big power Pknto when I run it.

Cheap tricks were wrapping the exhaust and wedging the rear of the bonnet 10mm

Getting the heat out on an S3 is an issue

80psi is very good pressure for a pinto

Means you can run very high revs with no issues

What pressure do you get stinking hot after a long hard run?

Seal any gaps so hot air does not get in

Put heat mat around the footwell inside

Put heat mat on the outside of the footwell in the engine bay

Consider heatmat down the gearbox tunnel

Wrap the exhaust

Vent the engine bay

It's never 1 thing but a combination

Mine (S3a) is screwed in a lot further than that, in fact I had to buy thinner locknuts to get the camber right.

My FR32 cammed engine pulls as normal from 1000rpm and just keeps pulling

Will go to 7500 if you let it

Suggest cam timing and 3D ignition plus a bit more compression takes the flat spot away

I probably still have the masters that I could copy

They have a rudimentary index that I wrote out but no chapters so you have to fast forward

Yours for replacement dvd's and postage

Surely just some longer springs will raise the car

JB Weld

or POR 50 fuel tank sealer

However RS2000 sumps are worth a fair bit so professional rig welding is the way to go

I use Paul Gooderham, 907 on Locostbuilders as he is a supreme welder and fabricator

He modified my RS2000 sump and used some special indicator to prove the welds were fluid tight

I was told about 8mm, had a similar problem with a shortened sump where the sheet steel had bowed inwards making it touch the pickup

I found out by putting blue tack on the pickup edges and dummy fitting the sump, a ballpien hammer sorted the problem

For a tuned, cammed 2.1 if you are insistent on Webers or Delortoes then 45's is what you need

To get a proper pulse signal the choke size should be 7mm less than bore size therefor max choke size in a DCOE 40 is 33mm and max choke size in a DCOE 45 is 38mm

The 38DGAS is good if jetted properly but in my opinion the veriable venturi bike carbs give the same power potential with a smoother delivery and at much less cost

Check blue silicon hose is fluro lined or fuel will eat the pipes

Dimples are material removed to balance them after casting

IMHO they are the same

Put them face down then face up on a flat surface and check if the belt faces are at the same point

I have to agree I don't see the point of building a race tuned pinto engine to sell on... You will sell it for less than half you spend on it. Things like high pressure oil pumps cost a fortune....

Pinto high pressure oil pump £48

Pinto high pressure high capacity oil pump £68

Not expensive IMHO

Yes building a proper full race Pinto is expensive

Building a high power 2.1 my cosy rod, V6 piston RL31 cam big valve cost 2k

I built up a 2.1 with FR32 for around 1k

After a very interesting seminar from tech ed John of Complete kitcar it seems that copper micro bore central heating often used for the long run from tank to engine bay is also the wrong stuff to use.

I have twin copper pipe built in and now need to replace this with kunifer and I'm not happy about that as it was a pig of a job when the car was half built.

I did the DIY EFI seminar at Stonliegh and it clarified some of the myths.

Certainly there are easier ways to go EFI and that is mainly by spending much more money and getting someone else to do ALL the setup and tuning.

Megasquirt is a true DIY EFI and YOU will have to do a fair bit more work to make it work.

There is a recommended tuning program that does a good job for you if you have wide and lambda.

I admit to struggling with "the way to go" on this but being historically tight it feels right to have a go with (the right) Megasquirt.

Kent RL31 is about the most cam you can put in a road engine with cast pistons. IMHO

I have one in a 2.1, it's peaky and only comes to life after 3500rpm but after that hang on.

To make it usable you need compression, which is limited by the pistons at 10.5 to 1 ish, realy need forged and 11.2 to 1 but it felt OK to me.

We have not as yet got to the bottom of the knocking so could the noise be detonation? Ignition to far advanced for cam/ compression combination?

Yep, had the loose arse, rear steer feel with strange handling on/off throttle.

Turns out a rear hub nut (the ones that you bash the collar into the driveshaft notch) had unwound despite the collar.

Replaced the shaft and both sides hub nuts with nylock version then drilled and split pinned.

They ain't going to move in a hurry (I hope)