Grizzly

OK, here's what I mean. The plastic P Clip (Red Arrow) is at the end where the copper pipe joins. There's no flexing going on here. There's a more substantial P Clip (Blue Arrow) further down, wrapping around the bonded sleeve on the flexi. From here on is where the flexing occurs. I took one of the springs off and checked that the swinging arm (sorry, that's a motocycle term) moved up & down OK - and it does. Although I've now bled the brakes, I'd be happy to dismantle it and redo this bit if deemed necessary. OK, what's the panels verdict???

... I've just used some plastic P-Clips and it seems to be secure enough. I'll post some pics for tonight if you like?

Thanks All, I'm going for a separate scuttle & bonnet, so I'll do the scuttle first and then see where I'm at before tackling the dash.

I've just started to lay out and label up the loom. All seems well (I'm sure I've spoken too soon now) , apart from: In the VG Loom (and on the Diagram) these two thickish White/Black & White wires are for the carb. The instructions also go on about 'an amplifier'. However, on my set up, I have no electrics coming from the carb (32/36 DGAV). Do I just insulate these separately or connect them together, or what? Theres also a white wire for in the steering column area and I'm not sure what this is for either. Any help, as usual, greatly appreciated.

Hi All, I've offered up the dash to the tubes and it's clear that there's going to be quite a bit of snipping involved. Would anyone care to offer any advice as to how's the best way in going about fitting the dash?. Would I be best to wait and do the scuttle first or doesn't it really matter? Any pics (or links to pics) would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, I thought it was OK to do so too. However, personally speaking, whenever I get to this stage I was thinking of trailering it, just in case

A major milestone for me on Saturday. I drove my 2B Plus up and down the drive (and about time I here some of you say!). It pulls well a stops too - Oh Joy! One thing I did notice though was a bit of knocking - I think from the sterring column. Upon inspection, I noticed that there's a bit of play at the UJ wher it joins to the rack. Is this a RH supplied part? If so, I'be going down to RHE soon anyway so I could take it with me. If not, I guess a new UJ is required. Does anyone have any experience of these things that they'd like to share?

I'll be fitting my Mini Heater very soon and just wondered if the levers and switch are deemed OK for SVA? Would it be OK to fit it so that the control facia is flush with the dash or would it be wser to recess it?

... and I've just noticed you live in Crewe - I used to live in Sandbach!

Good Luck bloke!!! Hope it all goes well.

Nah! I sit in front of PC's all day - I'd rather get on with building thr car I do the words and take most of the pics, so I'm happy to leave the web building to my pal.

Hi Nigel, So, in your opinion, would this suffice for this part of the electrics run? It's only an inch or so longer than what you can see in the photo.

Hi Alan, I thought of that but my website is managed by someone else. It's due for an update though so I'll ask him to do this too. Cheers.

... and gloves - It's a bit like loft insulation and can give some peeps a bit of a rash!

Hi All, I've noticed lately, quite a few people getting rather twitchy with regards to what's involved in order to pass the SVA. A joy yet to behold for me by the way. A collegue at work has quite a bit of experience when it comes to kitcars and yesterday lent me a book (or rather a magazine) dating back to 1998. I know it's from a while ago but I don't think it's any less relevant. It tries, I beleive, to put the SVA requirements into layman terms. Along with Longboarder's very useful find (which is in more depth and more up to date), I think they compliment each other quite well. I'll certainly be using it for some bedtime reading anyway. At the risk of breaching any Copyright, Here it is: Or rather it would be, but it's a PDF at 5Mb so too big to post here. If someone can tell me how to get it into the Downloads Section please?????

At Newark last year I bought two bobbins from the Lcost guys. I fitted them as they said. You're right though, they make the panel flex. I'm going to put a plate on the inside of the panel and secure it to the bottom chassis rail in the hope that this will stiffen it up - Fingers crossed.

Do you have to???? I've just replaced the pops with nuts, washers and phillips head screws only.

Yes, thanks Mitch. I'll be making sure I take plenty with me come the dreaded day. I'm hoping to show the SVA man so many that'll he get so bored and just give me a pass to get rid of me.

Sorry the pictures are a bit small, but you should get the idea. If you want I can email the originals to you. Just let me know.

The third picture is a drivers eye view. It's easy to reach and should keep the SVA man happy.

The second picture is a close-uop of what protrudes through the floor below. Just enough to fit the rod onto which joins to the cable. You need to ensure that there's at least 1inch of travel (pull).

... sorry, let's try again. ...and here they are: The first picture is how it's mounted on the passenger side tunnel wall. It's mounted through a piece of 2mm steel to give it plenty of support.

The second picture is a close-uop of what protrudes through the floor below. Just enough to fit the rod onto which joins to the cable. You need to ensure that there's at least 1inch of travel (pull).

Hi DIYER, I have overcome the handbrake positioning problem (thanks to Klaxon) and I'm very pleased with it. I'll post some pictures on this thread tonight...

If, as in the photo, the scuttle portion is going to be seperate from the bonnet. is there even any need for it to be on? If I understand this correctly (and please correct me if I'm wrong) this strengthening piece is only necessary for those who are sticking with the alligator bonnet option??