alanrichey

Does the sensor have to go into the water ? If so what's the best method ? Although I saw on an Amazon review that he simply taped it the hose ?

Looks like my cooling problems are because the Fan switch is not activating (shorting it out and the fan runs OK). It isn't a major problem, as the previous owner fitted a manual override switch for the fan. But I would like to fix it. I haven't taken it out yet but the trouble is that it seems to be a bayonet fitting into the radiator and all the ones I can find on the 'net are screwed in. Does anyone know what car the Superspec radiator came from ? Does anyone know a source for bayonet-type cooling fan switches ? Al

I'm sure I speak for a lot of members when I say we are all breathing a sigh of relief. It's been a fascinating journey, both here on the forum and at Hollowell, so many thanks for sharing it with us. A very useful addition to the forum knowledge base. And congrats to the 3 of you for finally figuring it out.

Thanks, hadn't reaiised it was so wide-spread. Maybe someone can confirm the logic of the fuel system to me so I know how to rebuild it. Obviously I have the standard (2") concertina tube going from the tank to the filler cap. Then there is a separate, 1/2" tube that goes from another outlet near the tank input up to a side feed to the neck of the filler cap. Then there is yet another very small, short, tube right in the middle of the tank which is simply open to the air. I was working on the principle that the small open-air tube was a general vent for day-to-day use and the 1/2" tube was to release air during filling ? Am I right ?

Wouldn't be a problem for me, no floor under the fuel tank so in some ways it is already external

Thanks for that, good information.

I'm looking to reposition the Fuel Filler Cap on my Superspec from it's default position on the back. Apart from having a very convoluted flexible hose, making it a VERY slow filler, I find it leaks petrol a bit during hard left turns when the fuel swills into it. Are there any legal/MOT requirements I have to adhere to ? For example, can I mount the cap directly on the fuel tank (and open boot cover to fill) or do I have to have some of filler neck of a minimum length ? An does the filler cap have to be on the outside of the car ? And I note the MOT regulations specifiy it must be a locking cap, but my Volvo doesn't have a locking cap and passes the MOT ? If I did have it inside the boot would a locking boot cover count ?

Thanks, now successfully added myself

I love it Classic lateral thinking.

Thanks, good stuff. I must admit I had assumed the camber could be adjusted by simply adjusting the nut that I can see under all the protective tape. I see now what you mean about it being only a single turn. And yes, my top wishbone does slope slightly down, but not by much and I get the impression that when I sit in it, maybe with a passenger, it will be almost horizontal. And my 'mushroom' dummy strut looks as though it has also been welded to the hub as well as being held by the pinch bolt. I know the previous owner wouldn't have done that so might it have been done by RH before sale ?

Just to close out this thread, I've done it !! I know this is bread & butter for most of you, but it's a first for me so I am quite chuffed, another step along the learning curve I took all the advice here and from all the contacts at Hollowell (particularly Kerry) and didn't move the lower mounting point. I got the tool recommended by Ed and wound the spring up to match his picture. Sump clearance has gone from 2" to 3.5". That may very well be enough, but I shall watch over the next few drives to make sure I don't get coli-bound and see if I can get away with a bit more. It's handy that you can actually see the springs in a Robin Hood I made the mistake of not checking the camber before I started, but once the springs were wound up I am getting -1.0° on the offside and +0.7° on the nearside, so I am guessing they probably weren't correct before. From what I have read this will be safe, but it would be better to get the nearside a bit on the -ve side ? A job for next week. So thanks again for all the advice and help.

Can we add the Member Map to the list as things that need to be fixed ? I can't add myself to it. Thanks

Thanks, I'll give you a ring.

Thanks for the advice. I may be seeming a bit dense here but having never done this before my problem is I have no idea how these are fastened. Most of the press studs I am seeing on the net/high street are either self tappers or require access to the back side to be squashed into position, These fasteners are on the carbon fibre back plate and appear to also be fastened through into the stainless steel chassis so I have no idea what the backside looks like or how you fasten them without access to the rear. I assume 'Woolies' will explain it to me.

Tried to add myself by tapping on the "Save Location" in the Member Map but I get an error message saying it couldn't contact Google. System broken or something I am doing wrong ?

Thanks Nigel, that's a great suggestion. At least that way I can show them the car and make sure I get the right things. On E-Bay it's going to be guesswork

OK, just spent another 10 minutes on E-Bay looking at fasteners without success. I'll hang on until someone can give me a definte link

I need to drill out some of the presss studs (that the wet-weather gear clips onto) on the back of my Superspec to do some work on the fuel filler. I gather they are easy enough to replace but so far all I have found on E-Bay are self-tapping versions (See Item 221046648254) and picture, and I need pop rivet versions Can anyone point me in the right direction ?

I'll second that. Nice to meet everyone, I will stay longer next year.

Hope to make it 10-11am tomorrow

Thanks, that's very useful as a comparison. I am using the same mounting hole as you but have hardly any of the coil thread showing. I was planning on moving it in one more hole closer to the chassis. Maybe I should just wind them up a bit.

Looks good. How far up did you wind them up ?

Thanks, I'll bear that in mind.

That's exactly what I did and even with the nuts removed the shock was still rock solid when the wheel wouild 'just' rotate by hand. So as you say, I probably need to compress it. The part of the 'physics' I was missing/didn't understand was that the wheel/wishbone might start rising because the balljoints have reached the limit. That makes a lot of sense, thanks.

Sounds expensive ?