nelmo

I've driven Matt's car and it scared me - no way you'd get me in it as a passenger unless he fitted a passenger brake pedal! ☺

Well, still not 100% it's that pickup because there didn't seem to be any flex in it when I first looked at it after getting the sump off. But the fact it was touching the sump at all was bad enough. If you look closely at that pipe: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jwk7DYCbdwG86Yxi7 ....you can see that the head had been welded on at an offset to the main pipe (friday afternoon job, obviously). I've taken it to the same guy who just welded up the hole in my sump and he's going to re-weld that head on properly - see if that helps.

I saw those - I was wondering what they were for... I'm going to try bend the oil pickup to get some more clearance, put it back together and cross fingers. I don't have enough space/tools/skill to do engine removals/stripping. And I don't have an ashtray

Yup, that's where it is - I can't see an existing olive - does it get crushed in somewhere? I'll have a go at that - many thanks for your detailed reply (and everyone else) (I have tried PTFE tape - didn't help)

I've replaced a leaky ball valve in my loft water tank but the connection to the main feed pipe is leaking a bit - a drop every few seconds. Am I safe enough just trying to seal that with this tape: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p55262?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXV1GmJXLlmoRJJaYNOA5kXuFsRrTSxO93tMJYIv20HOkJ64cRsxFRhoCS0IQAvD_BwE ...or do I need to get a plumber in to solder (?) it? (getting a plumber to do a tiny job like this is a flipping nightmare - they're never interested in such a small job)

Hmm, after getting the sump off and cleaning it up, I noticed this mark: https://photos.app.goo.gl/x3gL4m7EXEW1vsew6 Looks like the oil pickup has been very close, if not touching (rattling? ) against the bottom of the sump? Is there a set distance the pickup should be from the bottom of the sump? (Zetec 2L) The pickup felt rock solid when I first got the sump off but I guess if it is only a mm or 2 off the bottom, it wouldn't take much to get it hitting - have I found my rattle?

For images, (if you don't want to use the site that tractor's linked to), I just save them in Google photos and paste the link to that in my post. You don't actually see the photo in the post but it's not a huge hardship for people to click on the link IMO. Otherwise, the basic Paint (if you're on Windows) can do re-sizing or (if Android/Apple), find an app to do the re-size.

Hey, you're still young, always time to fit in another mid-life crisis ☺ Hope your health improves and we see you again...

I've finally found a local (ish) fabrication company who thinks he can weld the hole in my sump (only if it is cast and not die-cast? ) but he said he would weld a patch over it, rather than actually fill it (its a 15mm round hole) - is this OK? I would prefer the hole filled-in in some way, no?

Actually, I'm glad you said that as i wasn't looking forward to trying to get that crank pulley off. When it was running, i did all you said; rattle still there with the fan belt off so none of those bearings are the problem (i changed the water pump as well, anyway). Cam belt covers off, all looked fine but still rattly. Run through with fuel injector cleaner - no difference. Sump off was last resort, trust me...

Yeah, tell me about it! Unlikely to be any sort of wear issue - was a crated (new) engine, so zero miles. I've done 3k miles in the last year. I've had 2 experienced car builders who are both professional mechanics looking and listening to it and couldn't be sure of the problem. They believed they identified the rattle coming from the front and bottom of the engine - they checked the cam chains (as much as you can without stripping it all down), bearings on the pulleys all ok. Definitely not exhaust or other non-engine parts...

OK, thanks - do you know the torque setting for when I have to re-tighten it?

Big ends seem OK (although awaiting a second opinion). Next step is to check the oil pump and YouTube has, amazingly, let me down - no (useful) videos of how to get it off. Anyone suggest a good video/source of explanation? I'm most concerned about my ability to get that front flywheel (?) off as I don't have an air gun - is that going to be as hard as I imagine? Do I need to take everything off the front of the engine (water pump as well?) or is the oil pump just the black bit behind that flywheel (red arrow in attached pic)? Any help/suggestions appreciated...

'caps'? Sorry, never delved into an engine before...

No, they seem fine (but i just tried wiggling them by hand -is that sufficient? ) although I'm awaiting a second opinion. Next step is removing and checking the oil pump. ..

Yes, true but I've always had problems trying to get small welding jobs done. Every company i try just aren't interested in small jobs (despite their adverts saying 'no job too small' !!!). I had to get poor Bob Tucker on here to do my VIN plate and my door frames for that reason. I'll try find someone but i'm not hopeful...

Does anyone have opinions on those cold welding products? They basically seem to be a glorified glue - is it suitable for a 10mm round hole in a sump which will contain very hot oil? Or is the bolt and washer a better seal in this case?

I've downloaded the latest form from the website and i don't see that wording?

So, after 3 weeks of various cures and fixes (new oil, coolant, water pump, fuel additives to clean engine), still a rattle. Some help from a local guy from the SKCC forum (he's a mechanic) suggested the rattle came from the front bottom end of the engine (using the long-pole-and-your-ear technique), hence my 2 weeks of swearing to get the sump off (see my other post). So, sump finally off but, annoyingly, there is nothing obviously loose; Windage tray and oil pickup pipe all solid. Bottom ends have a tiny amount of sideways play but its the same on all cylinders so seems normal. No sign of wear that might suggest something rubbing unnaturally. I did find the 1 inch of dipstick that broke off into the sump shortly after IVA about a year ago (well before the rattle started) - is that possibly a cause of the rattle? Doesn't seem heavy enough to make such a loud rattle and why now? Any other ideas to look for while sump is off?

Success!! The damn thing is finally off but not before i had to drill a hole through the bottom so that i could get a screwdriver in and lever the tray away from the side of the sump. Dropped off almost immediately. .. Thanks for all the suggestions...just need to find someone who can weld/fill the hole. What does anyone think of the idea of just using a nut, bolt and rubber grommet to block the hole in the sump? Stupid?

Can you imagine if we get into the final?!!! Even my wife is excited and she's not normally interested. My brother lives in Florida and he tells me that even the Americans are much more into the 'soccer' this time...

The problem with taking the test is that my windscreen washer doesn't work, which i think is a certain fail. With my other problem right now (engine rattle), i just want to get that fixed and have some fun driving time in this great weather, not be stuck trying to get the washer working. Its electrical and could be a pain to fix. My IVA was only a year ago and was much more detailed than an MOT so I'm happy the car is fundamentally sound.

Thanks Rich - amazing that something so fundamental can be so misunderstood. However, the latest V112 form is different to the one you used - there is now no section where you can say it was built less than 3 years ago. I may be playing phone ping-pong with the DVLA on monday...

On the way to the Stilton run in April, i booted it out of a roundabout, lost the back in an instant and slid sideways up the dual carriageway, onto the grass verge, taking out 3 (thankfully plastic) bollards. Luckily it was 7am and no other traffic so no one witnessed my ineptitude. Booked onto a handling day in October...

According to government website (https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/mot-test-fees), it should be 3 years - no specific mention of a Q plate on there. I'll call them on monday...