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steve_wilson

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Everything posted by steve_wilson

  1. only done about 300 miles on 10.8 will be going supercharged next winter so will probably only do another 1000 miles at 10.8 then i'll be lowering the CR enlarging the chambers seems like the best bet, unless you can skim the pistons?
  2. when i first registered my 2b i got it rolling roaded at bogg brothers, went in with 45bhp at the wheels and came out with 85 at the wheels i had 2.1 pinto twin 40 dellortos points dizzy standard sierra cast manifold carb head (no head work) piper 285 cam + vernier pulley went back a year later with: same 2.1 pinto block fireblade carbs megajolt RH 4-1 manifold injection head with very mild porting but standard valves piper 300 cam + vernier 10.8:1 compression came out with about 135 at the wheels the better flowing exhaust really made a difference, it was very noticeable when i fitted that. injection heads are supposedly worth 5-10bhp. getting a decent ignition system i.e. bestek or megajolt with be worth a bit, especially mid range. and making doubley sure your cam timing is spot on! with a DTI and timing disc also worth upping the compression, even just a little bit with a felpro head gasket, theyre only about £25 from burton power
  3. this did cross my mind, however (without wishing to sound lazy) it sounds more work and potentially more fiddly than what it should be this also crossed my mind. only thing that put me off was i'd like to have a mechaincal connection rather than just being held on by weld. i think i'm sorted now anyway chaps, i'll post up the solution when i've machined it many many thanks for your help so far
  4. i've never had weather gear so im not really sure if i understand what you're after, but... why not get some 20/25mm conduit + conduit bender and made your own? will probably be cheap and easy
  5. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250984285990?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 link to ebay
  6. pic of the diff if hes interested...
  7. picture of the situation florin.... i'm not 100% sure what you mean? weld an m14 bolt onto the end of the rack? cheers, steve
  8. hi all i noticed a bit of play in my track rod ends a few months ago. i finally ordered some new ones about a month ago. went for standard sierra ones. it was foolish of me to assume RHE had made it so straightforward! the rack is a LHD metro one, turned upside down. so i ordered X2 TREs off a metro, and they fit the rack perfectly! only problem is when i came to fit them last night the taper on the metro TRE is smaller than the taper in the sierra stub axle. i refitted the original TRE and these also had the same problem (hence the play), whereas the sierra ones are a perfect fit on the stub axle. metro rack has a thread of M12X1.25 and the sierra has a thread of M14X2 i'm struggling for ideas really... what have you guys done? the sliding pillar will get ditched at some point but i'm just trying to make do for now. i'll upload a picture as soon as my iphone stops playing up
  9. ive fitted HIDs to my hood (post iva) they need aligning by a garage (will have to wait till i've taxed it) but they are mega bright and a nice white light colour too. they are however illegal without headlamp washers and self adjusting thingys they are good but probably not worth the effort, if i'd realised they were going to made an mot fail i wouldnt have bothered. come MOT time i'll be taking them off and just fitting soem good quality bulbs.
  10. hi jess thats spot on, i'll hold on to it till i hear from you. cheers, steve
  11. offers? would rather it went to someone on here
  12. hi all my brother has just started shifts and gets about 5 days off at a time. he finds himself wasting the time away (his words) he's after a bit of a project, nothing too major. something like a motorbike in need of some attention or an old mx5 needing some tlc, as long as it's on the cheap he's up for it then maybe get a summers use out of it and garage/tinker over winter he says he just needs something to keep him busy during the days off! does anyone have any such thing they wouldnt mind letting go? beer tokens waiting of course
  13. hi all i'll be taking out my 3.62 rear diff this weekend. it's non LSD with bolt on shafts. it is a good diff, no knocks or rattles, i thought it was whining but turned out to be a wheel bearing it's a 7" wide one £40? collection from york or you can arrange a courier (wont be cheap though!) cheers, steve
  14. steve_wilson

    Fuel Consumption

    i have the larger tank as supplied by RH. with bike carbs and some other bits on my trusty 2.1 pinto i get about 100 miles to a tank... at very most makes this quite difficult, especially as the fuel sender/gauge tells lies
  15. steve_wilson

    Rover 3.9 Efi

    if nobody above takes it i'll have it off your hands for sure wish i'd seen this sooner
  16. not for a hood, but for an escort rs turbo i'm restoring. anything considered really, the harnesses need to be the long variety, 3 or 4 point. and the bucket seats need to be in decent condition. not fussed if they have runners or not. cheers, steve
  17. are the plugs wet? any smoke from the exhaust? definatley sparking on all 4 plugs? have you knocked anything i.e. crank position sensor or something? never dealt with fuel injection so not sure whats what really...
  18. i have these in my 2b, suprisingly comfy! pretty decent quality too. only thing is my back gets pretty sweaty during summer. needs some foam pads or a cushion or something for summer
  19. hi all, i have a steel 2b bonnet painted (quite badly) in red. has a red gelcoat nosecone fitted to it (has some damage in one corner) otherwise in decent condition. the windscreen has been fitted and it also has some old school motorbike mirrors attached too. the bonnet has been cut in half and has the framework inside to allow it to forward hinge. the bonnet does has some dints and scrapes and stuff, so if you're in doubt i can take some pictures for you. £75? collection only from york cheers, steve
  20. steve_wilson

    Megajolt ?

    just use tps i think? much simpler and neater imo. i couldnt tell you which is better, but having gone down the tps route it's certainly simple enough. i have a set of fireblade carbs with tps spare if you need a set. pm me if youre interested
  21. for the timing wheel i bolted a 36 tooth sprocket and ground on tooth off. this was bolted in front the crank pulley. when i had it in the right position i drilled and tapped through the sprocket and crankk pulley so i could stick a couple of bolts to hold it together too. the sprocket or timing disc... whatever you use, has to be concentric. i had to turn a little collar to sit inside the sprocket so it would be pretty much a push fit with the crank pulley bolt. as for the sensor bracket i used a bloke off here called "laserman" he has all the cad drawings and the laser cutting tools needed to be able to sort you out with the right bracker for around £6. simple as that! edit pic:
  22. hmmm i guess £800 isnt too bad considering the amount of time that must go into it... still i think i'd rather do it myself. i'll give them a ring next time they're open and report back the costs! cheers, steve
  23. so does anyone know the cost of the kit from gbs to convert sliding pillar to wishbone? is there any other companys that make wishbone conversions? i seem to remember a company called rs jigtech, but i think they disappeared. cheers, steve
  24. hi all as in the title really 3.92 rear diff. needs to have bolt on flanges. can be either 7 or 7.5" wide (preferrably 7" though) needs to be in working condition cheers, steve
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