geordie40

During this glorious weather we have been having I have had the misfortune to be stuck in some rather slow moving traffic and whilst the car temp does go up not that it over heats but I dont like it creeping up near the red I can manually turn on the radiator fan to help bring temp back down but it doesn't half roast my feet and the same thing will happen if we start moving again. I thought that the foot wells were sealed or one piece, not the case ? Basically if I fit side vents into the bonnet will this help to keep engine bay temp down if so any idea where to get some also does wrapping the exhaust manifold in heat tape help? Any other suggestions appreciated

Resurecting an older topic here but my vibration was put down to a cracked steering rack mount or casing not sure which, this had been welded but i think it may have broken loose, the mechanic said there wasnt much to weld to would this be the case for the mounts or can a steering rack casing crack to give vibrations. Also if it is the rack thats knackered then what Mk escort is it off, I read it might be a MK2 which maybe difficult to get hold of I would think.

Thx Wanderer will take a look when I'm home

Will get the old "persuader" out and see if I can coax it straighter

Thanks for pic Andy, not sure how mine is twisted as both bolts are secure on the "C" shape bracket. Of course it may have always been like it and in just noticing things now

Hi wanderer sent you a pm any pics would be great

Yours does look different alan, mine looks twisted any idea how it may have happened and can I straighten it. Wanderer did you adjust yours by changing gearbox mounts or is there another adjustment

Hi Just wondering if these photos look right, I had noticed a knock from the tunnel/gear stick when I went over a bump so I removed the tunnel top and had a look inside and it looks like the remote linkage (I think thats what you call it) looks twisted I have about 1/2 inch clearance to the tubular frame on driver side but its hard up against the frame on passenger side. When I push down on the gearbox the gap increases but it take a lot of pressure, I have put a bit of neoprene to stop the knocking. I have looked under car and gearbox looks level and there doesn't seem to be anything loose on the gear lever, and from what I can see gearbox mounts are ok, can only see 2 underneath car if there are anymore where are they? Am I worrying over nothing or should I look elsewhere

Yeah I meant propshaft, couldnt think what it was called last night, two days at a car show in the blazing sun had fried my brain!! Will have a look when I get back, not sure how you can tell if the shaft is knackered, any ideas anyone?

A simple question Should I be able to see the drive shaft from gearbox to diff from underneath the car. Mine seems to be enclosed. Reason for asking is sometimes I get a judder and clonking when pulling away (seems worse when hot) and it feels like its coming from the tunnel area, if I dip clutch or give it a but more "beans" its fine.

Well it had to happen sometime, bombing along a nice Devon B road minding my own business when what should come round the corner but a massive German tourist bus, slammed on anchors, 2 nearly straight 20ft tyre marks and one shouty german!!!! Care to share yours?

Hi Kevin I think my clearence is along the same lines as most SS owners. Where I live in Devon there are plenty nice rural drives but a lot of pot holes or nice dips in the road that catch you out and the sump guard bottoms out!! Was just thinking ahead as I think tyres are original so about 10yrs old and showing some cracking.

Wouldn't that have shown on MOT? Will chk anyway

Not sure how much clearance is under the bonnet on a super spec, engine bay is very crowded

Hi Al My shocks are wound up about the same as yours, just thinking that putting an extra inch on the wheels or tyres will help as well. I think I read somewhere on here that 195/60 tyres give a better ride as well

Hi After my run in with a speed hump Im looking at an easy way to increase ground clearance, I cant raise engine, nor do I want to (dont have know how or tools for it) so Im thinking of either changing the 15" arrays of a 16" wheel or maybe just changing tyres to 195/60/15 from 205/50/15 . Whats peoples views Tyres or Rims or BOTH!!

Will probably get them done when car goes back for mot retest

Same here never done it and wouldn't know how, is it s case of just slapping grease all over them?

I used to have an MG Midget that would cough and stutter under load that turned out to be the dizzy but that wouldnt account for it only happening at temp. If it only hapens at temp then what changes when up to full operation temp? Fuel/air mix? My super failed MOT because it was too rich, faulty throttle position sensor so ecu thought throttle was wide open maybe yours is the opposite. If ecu doesn't know where throttle is then can't adjust fuel properly. You may have to bite bullet and take to a garage!!

Have you used the MEMS software from Alan, maybe that might point somewhere. I think you can run the software whilst you go on a drive and it will create a log file.

Well its amazing what a good nights sleep and a sunny afternoon can do!! All sorted now, I cut off the 3 white multi plugs on the loom and wired them direct to connectors on stalks and hey presto it all works now. I even got a 2ndhand stalk assembly from local scrap yard, its from an mg tf , its the opposite way round but it still had part of the loom go a quick google told me what went where. Happy days

Thanks Alan, Ive got a feeling the dash rebuild maybe sooner rather than later, do you know if the main beam has to be on a separate switch as ive seen on car builders a off/on/on switch for side and dip and a single switch for the main http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/knurled-ring-toggle-switch-off-on-on-3-position http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/knurled-ring-toggle-switch-on-on-changeover-double-pole

Hi all Im having real trouble with my headlight wiring, The sidelights work fine on the stalk but dip and main dont, if i supply 12v to direct to the 9 pin multiplug then they work (blue/white and red/white wires), the side lights come from the 3 pin plug with brown being the supply 12v and red to the side light. Can the stalks fail? if so what sort do i have (pics below). My lighting stalk connector looks to be wired top left Blue/White top right Red below red Green (12v supply) Below that Blue/Red Theres also a black and red not sure what that one is or even if it does anything (horn maybe but dont use it) I have searched through the forums and I think Im going round in circles Do the lights have to be on a stalk (incl main) for MOT or can I wire separate switches? Ive been on this for 2 nights now!!, the lights used to work before I started "dicking" about trying to get the dash to light up and main beam indicator to work which I got working last night but even thats stopped. I dont think I have a headlamp relay and I cant see one on the SS wiring diagram is this correct? Any pics, diagrams of other super spec light stalks and the 3 multi plugs would be appreciated PLEASE HELP!!!!

Just had mate drop it back and he explained the throttle pot is there to convert the mechanical throttle action into a digital signal for ecu and when on the diag software the reading wasn't changing stuck at 400 soon as it was changed went down to 40 at rest, basically the car thought throttle was wide open when it wasn't!! The garage used to be a Rover specialist hence they knew what to look for and they had 3 pots on the shelf, as he said how many garages would have Rover 1995 throttle pots!! It seems dash illumination and headlamp main beam are some new things recently brought in (dam EU!!) I didnt even think they would be a failure. I thought i had corrected the headlamp beam but Im only doing it by guess work and now it gives me a chance to replace the sealed units with Halogen ones. The indicators were working when it went away but thats bulbs for you. Lots of tinkering to do

Emmisions sorted with new throttle potentiometer, steering rack casing welded. Just the dann wiring to sort