NickandNeil

Just watched a u tube video. This is the first time I have set the gaps on an overhead cam engine. I set the gap between the valve stem and the follower. It looks like I should have set it between the follower and the cam. Will reset now and see if I have done any damage.

I am as sure as I can be that the collets were in the correct way. But I will double check tomorow. The chance of a collet going down the plug hole seems remote. The led camera is a good idea but I have not got one, or know anyone with one. Thanks, Neil.

I have a Ford Pinto 1993cc engine in my Exmo. The engine smoked when first starting, and after reading the forums I thought the valve seals had gone. With my IVA less than two weeks away I thought I would change them as I was running out iof time. I thought I would repalce the seals without removing the head. I bought the tool esecially for it, and after watching u tube video's Proceded to remove the spark plugs and insert rope into the cylinder. After turning the engine by hand to compress the rope against the valves, I changed all the seals and felt very pleased with myself. When I came to start the engine, it rattled like hell. Double checked the valve clearances. Eight thou for inlet, ten for exhaust. They were all correct. Fired it up again and the rattle was the same. ( There was no rattle before) I am at a loss what I could have done wrong. The oil seems to be plentyfull coming over the cams. When I turn the engine over by hand it sometimes jams solid. Is it possiblr to put the collets in wrong? Other than something being in the cylinder is all I can think of that would cause it, but I can't see how that could possibly have happend. Any thoughts please.

Thanks will do that.

The metal is folded over, it is hard to tell if it is 2.5mm. It was the corners I was worried about.

the silencer is off a Honda Blackburd 1400cc. itis angled down but it only protrudes 1".

I have finaly got my IVA test date, 16 September. ( applied early May.) I am panicking now, thinking that I may have missed something. I have fitted a heat shield to the silencer, because it had sharp edges that I could not get round. However, the edges of the heat shiel, although they have rounded edges, still seem more dangerous than the origional sharp edges I was trying to avoid. I have enclose three picture of said shiel . What are your thoughts rearding the IVA test?

Thanks, i was not sure if that had been fused yet. I think I will take your advice, but put an inline fuse to be on the safe side.

Bought the tool Bob, thanks for the advice.

I have an Exmo that is waiting for the IVA test. After reding the IVA regs for the umteenth time I have noticed that the rear fog lights must not come on when the lighting is set on side lights only. My loom is off a sierra built in 1984 which allows you to do this. Does anyone know the best place to take the feed, as the dipped and full lights are on different fuses? Neil.

well done, I think I need to chase them up.

I m waiting for my IVA twidling my thumbs reading all the kit car forums green with envy at the blats everyone is doing. I noticed a comment on one site saying it is almost impossible to get an Exmo through the IVA test. Is there anything I need to know like extra strengthening etc? You guys have guided me over the last two years of rebuild, but no one has mentioned strengthening? Also has anyone had a test date through yet? and if so, when did you first apply?

Got rid of my viscus fan, the electric fan is more than adiquate.

Ok craig, thanks for looking, still not found one so if you do please contact me.

This tool allows you to change the valve seals without removing the head. You can buy an airline adaptor to fit into the plughole and pressurise the chamber and the valves will stay up. The other way is to remove the sparking plug and with the stroke at its lowest point insert 'rope.'or thick twine. When you have got as much in as possible turn the crankshaft by hand until it sqashes the rope up against the valves, and hopefully it will stop the valves falling in. The benefits are that you do not have to change head gaskets etc, also it is much quciker.

Does anyone have one of these that I can borrow or buy? It is the sort of tool I would only use once, so borrowing one would be great. Ilive in Plymouth. See picture.

My pinto engine had stood for twenty years. Canged the oil and serviced it. cleaned the carb and replaced some jets, but when I first start it, it smells of burning oil. It clears after a short while, and when I restart it, it doesent smell. I have been told it is probably the valve oil seals that need changing. I don't want to risk stripping the engine down at present as I am Praying for a call from the IVA about my long awaited test, I am planning the engine rebuild for the winter. Any thoughts on the best seals? I have been told they have been improved over the years. Also I have been told you can change them without removing the cylinder head, by putting rope through the plug hole and hand turning the piston to TDC. Do you need a special tool to compress the springs. Any thoughts would be appreciated. NEIL

thanks Maca, will do that.

Thanks.

Do you need to wrap your exhaust Pipe leading to the silencer for the IVA test?

I need to purchase a vin Plate for my upcoming IVA test. Any recomendations? I was going to aproach GBS, but The IVa manual shows the Robin Hood IVA plate as failing .

it's the top half I need.

I have obtained this cap that was supplied by Robin Hood. It came without the rear section. Does anyone have the rear fitment kicking around in their garage.

Any look finding the cowl?

Does anyone have an old upper plasic steering colum cowl for the Ford Sierra. The one i want has the square hazzard flasher as opposed to the round one.