2bTom

On 4/15/2024 at 12:46 PM, Sparepart said:

I did this last autumn without this problem, following the manual as you have. Perhaps the seal has not gone into the housing all the way, and might be wedged out so that it is fouling the inside surface of the flange ?, or might have been proud and has now been pressed in by the flange and just needs to be tapped in a bit further.

You are right I checked this and the seal needed to go in slightly further and the flange now turns freely. Unfortunately there is still a slight leak but it is coming through the nut and the thread. I think it can stay not bad enough to worry about for now.

On 4/14/2024 at 6:44 PM, richyb66 said:

Can you turn the pinion shaft with the flange when the nut is loose?

Yes it turns when the nut is loose.

Hi, I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction as to what I am doing wrong. My sierra standard diff was leaking through the pinion oil seal so I have changed it. Whilst putting it back together I tried to torque the nut up to 100nm as in the manual but it locks the diff even before I reach the required torque setting and the pinion flange won’t turn. The wheel hubs still turn but not the pinion flange. Any help with this is appreciated.

Ok thanks.

I have had a good look on your blog and the front brakes look same as mine as far a I can tell. Can you remember what disks and pads that you got?

I have recently picked up some Sierra Cosworth 4x4 front brake callipers and carriers the single pot ones and they take the 278mm vented discs. My hubs are the Sierra standard ones. So before I try fitting them to my zero has anybody else done this and is there anything to watch out for? Or if these are no good what brakes to go for?

Any advice welcome thanks.

Thanks for that. I did contact the company that I got the driveshafts from and they said to compress them and if I get a vibration I will need to get them shortened.

Sorry I know this is an old post but I am fitting these compressible driveshafts on to my zero and I was wondering how much can they compress safely. I can compress them by hand to within about 10mm after that I need to use more force. Is this safe to do? Or am I going to damage something if I compress them to much?

Message from Darrell as he is having a problem accessing the forum from his iphone.

This Sunday 6th August it's the first in the month so it is time for the Corner House meet at Charity Farm 

event time - 0830 to 1230pm 'ish

where: Charity Farm Fisheries, Wrightington, Smithy Brow, Wigan, WN6 9PP

Any one in the area up for a meet up, brew and chat?

Thanks Ian I have some 243 thread lock so I will use that instead.

Thanks for the answers. I am using M4 screws, so drill and tap the chassis and use thread locker. But before I carry on I thought to check what others think.

and

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-SCS271S-Stud-Lock-Strength/dp/B01MUWG7ZE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=XN0TBE53MBEP&keywords=sealey+thread+lock&qid=1679261071&sprefix=sealy+thread+lock%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-3

Just a quick question can I use M4 screws with max strength thread locker to fix cable tie saddles to the chassis or do I need to use pop rivets for the IVA? Reason I am asking is that if you have to remove a rivet the back of it just drops in to the chassis and it just rattles with no way to get it out so for that reason I don’t like to use rivets.

Now that I have picked up a Zetec engine my 1.8 Pinto is going spare. If anyone is interested I am after £400. I don’t know the mileage but it was running before I took it out. I have videos of it running. Due to size and weight it would have to be collection from Bolton only.

That makes a bit more sence. Thanks Ian

Thanks Ian, that is the bit that I did roughly understand but what I am struggling with is what happens to the coolant temperature sensor and air temperature sensor and the other bits that a normal ecu handles.

These carbs have a TPS and they came off a 1.8 zetec so should be good to go with the engine that I got until I can get it on a dyno (hopefully). I have the coil pack that came with the engine but will probably get a new one just in case.

I didn’t even think about the immobiliser.

Not sure if this needs to go to electrics or engine.

I have managed to pick up some ZX9 bike carbs with Canems ignition only ecu to go on a zetec blacktop engine. As far as I can understand the ecu only manages the coil pack but what I don’t understand is what else is needed to actually run the engine. Can anyone explain what else is needed, the original ecu?

Funnily enough I have finally managed to pick up a zetec blacktop engine from a very nice man that also gave me most of the ancillaries to go with it is a 1.8 rather than a 2.0 but that will get me going for now.

On 9/21/2022 at 12:35 PM, Snapperpaul said:

Will do, it’s at a barn I rent so give me a couple of days.

send me your email and I’ll send photos. On the dyno I made 170bhp with this manifold

22 hours ago, Burney said:

Have you still got this manifold please?

If this doesn’t work out for you I have a stainless manifold and exhaust for sale.

Well I can’t believe the hassle that comes with trying to by an engine. So far I have talked with two different people (not at the same time) that said they had an engine to sell and after some messaging and chatting on the phone and agreeing to buying they are just not getting back to me. Very frustrating.

That is a good point i will be going throug the forums now.

I will be looking at them when I get the parts that I need thanks.

To be honest I am after a 2L black top Zetec engine, shortened sump, exhaust manifold, I would like to go with bike carbs but that is not essential, fuel pressure regulator if going with carbs, ecu and a high pressure pump.

I am also looking at getting the engine mounts, swirl pot, spigot bearing and alternator kit from GBS.

So basically everything to do with fitting an engine plus other things that I have probably missed.

I will also need an exhaust but I am not even thinking about that yet.

Hi, I am building a GBS Zero and I was going to fit a pinto engine that I already have but I have changed my mind and decided to go with a 2L Zetec. I have looked at places like Raceline but that is way out of my price range. So I am hoping that someone on here has something sitting in the garage that they might consider selling before I hit the ebay.

This is how mine is set up if it helps.

No sorry i only have the fuel tank left.