miikae

1936 Morris 8 series E BJY 522 £25 in 1962 , with wooden floor boards & red leather seats , parked it on a bomb site for a couple of days and then went to Police station to report all wheels stolen , starter motor , dynamo , engine stripped , Police have not changed though as they just laughed and joked what can we do . Then went on to a 1952 Morris Minor Convertable PAU 1 £25 in 1964 , lots of summer fun was had in that car oh yes .

Mike

You could try this HELDITE - jointing compound for petrol, diesel, oil, hydraulic fluids, water, steam and gases , But whether it would work as a filler i would not like to say .

Mike

A creative licence is needed here now to fill in all the relevant omissions in your paperwork enough to cover ALL avenues and to more than satisfy the paper work jockeys .

I fully appreciate that it is a pain though and should'nt be at all a pain , only a pleasure to get the result you are after , to drive with a big smile .

Mike

Where on the sender is it leaking ? fuel pipes , electrical connector or flange .

Mike

I fitted mine to the diff flange outer edge as there were some almost flat places where the magnets could fix to 180 degrees apart either 2 or 4 magnets , i only used 2 , scrape off paint and rough up , clean with alcohol apply accelerator fluid (if supplied in your sender kit ) then araldite , leave for a good 24 hours to be on the safe side for it to set properly .

Sorry no pics at this moment , but i must get some taken soon .

Mike

Those Clampets !!

Mike

I hope the updates are not too (up to 101 pages now ) many as it slowed me down no end yesterday with my exhaust mod welding must finish it today .

I could do with one of those Bunkers to put all my bike and car bits in .

Mike

Your certainly not wrong there Joe .

Mike

All the bike carbs i have worked on are needle UP to enrichen & Down to weaken so i assume the modern ones are the same .

As a rough guide up to 1/8 throttle is controlled by the pilot jet , 1/8 to a 1/4 by the throttle valve cutaway, 1/4 to 3/4 throttle by the needle position and from 3/4 to full by the size of the main jet, all are approximate divisions which are no means clear cut .

Mike

I have added the link to my above post , GBS the now makers of Robin Hood , (Great British Sportscars .)

Mike

Phone GBS as they have 2 on ebay at the moment .

look here

Mike

I managed to get a New sealed Gel battery off of ebay , cost about £55 a few months back , its always kept up to charge with an Optimate 3 charger as are my bike batteries .

Mike

S grade bolts are the same tensile strength a 8.8 ,

The WWE marking will be the bolt makers mark .

Mike

The Anti Roll Bar that goes from one TCA ( track control arm ) to the other and is fixed either side of the chassis underneath with a rubber bush and housing .

I hope that is a wee bit clearer .

Mike

It sounds like its the Arb to me as mine was just like that , far to solid so i went down the tie bar route and modded the Arb , its much better now as the suspension works .

Mike

Now thats a very informative link MacMustang , all you want to know and more besides , nice one .

Mike

Further info gained so far

Red +

Bk -

Gn Coil input signal

Yel shift signal output , polarity not known

Bk/Wht shift light

I will have to jury rig it first to asertain the shift signal output polarity , if it is positive then Yel should connect to the Wht of the Bk/wht pair and the Bk to Neg , soon find out i hope .

Mike

I live in the sticks and today the suns out it must be drying out the con boxes , this seems to makes a lot of differance as mine has shot up to a max of 4.5Mbs at one point this afternoon an its approx 4.8Mbs this evening , there are approx 650 lines on our garage type exchange and i am at the furthest point from it .

Mike

I have emailed Taiwan this afternoon so i will have to wait and see if they reply , i think that the red=+ bk=--, yell&gn maybe one for coil the other to switch shift light on upon reaching the set rev limit , the bk & wht pair are the shift light wires +&- , what i am uncertain of is does it switch a + or - .

I may have to jury rig it to find out , but i would rather not just in case ,

Mike

Hi and welcome Adam ,

When i bought mine it was complete "so say" , but still took me many months and loads of loot to get it to where it is now , its on the road but there is always something further to do when the sun shines .

Best of luck and try to be positive and smile it helps .

Mike

I have just been given an Auto Gauge Tacho + Shift light but have no details cable colours designation or info on programming this Gismo , any help on this much appreciated , a web site link would be good so i could get a print out of all the info , i dont think that it is a current model as it has the date 21-11-2005 on its bottom !

This one .

Mike

When i was setting my rivnuts i broke a couple of mandrels and in the end only used it until they just gripped and then finished them off by useing a high tensile bolt and a hex spacer with a spanner on it to stop it spinning .

Mike

Very enlightenng , pay for 8Mbs and very lucky to get 3Mbs , but only when the Sun shines !!

Suns shineing gone up to 4.5Mbs

Click here

Mike

I bought a Crypton Carb Balancer in the mid 60s to do twin carb setups and i still use it with good effect today (they still go for a good price on ebay today ) so it certainly has paid for itself time and time over , reciently i bought two modern ones and i still prefer the old Crypton .

Mike

Hi Gisela , Look here http://www.protex.com/ for the bonnet catches as you can buy direct from them , i got 4 from them just last year in stainless steel .

Mike