Knock-on

It all depends if you like the low down grunt or the seamless power delivery. The S2k is a great engine and box for someone that likes really driving a machine but if you're looking for an everyday sort of 7 then it may not be the best option. I didn't know that the S2k and GB was 75kg heavier than the the Zetec / Type 9 competitor and am truly shocked. Being an Ali engine I cant see where the obesity comes from? I'm still toying with whether to take on another build but if I did the S2k would be very high on my list of possible drive trains.However,

Well, its good news. I have life in the old girl!! No simple answer I'm afraid. I cogitated and contemplated the problem last night and kept coming back to a bad Earth. I was getting reading on all the places I should but the Engine was Earthed through a bloody bolt to the Chassis so was convinced that it had to be something else. Anyway, I had a Earth strap knocking about so it couldn't hurt and lobbed it onto the Chassis and Coil mount. Strange???? I saw a single spark. Not Nirvana I know but a start. Swapped out the EDIS unit and switched the Crank sensor wires over and hey-presto, we have lift off!! Swapped the EDIS back and still worked so I can conclude that it was a combination of the wiring diagram lying as to the way the Sensor should be wired and an Earth that wasn't as robust as it could be. I was fixing things one at a time where I needed a multi-solution approach. Anyway, a squirt of brake cleaner and she purred like a Tiger (pretending to be a Kitten). Thanks everyone.

Just bumping again. Anyone know what reading I should get off the Flywheel sensor at at the pins of the Coil pack?

Quite like the idea of a S2000

For people that know Colin, he is selling his Hood chassis. I can't remember how many were built but probably about half a dozen? Some brainbox will correct me, I'm sure. This is the best one of the bunch with a full rollover cage and would be great as a track day car, as a 750mc entry or just as an excellent road car. If you don't want the full rollover cage, I can remove for free. For those that don't know what the Hood was, it was developed to be a chassis for a Robin Hood race series. It was losely based on the 2b but lightened and strengthened to be a cracking chassis. It's designed for double wishbone suspension all round. If anyone is interested, I will post some pictures. £600

Here is the link in case others want to check it out. http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=38854 It looks quite nice but would prefer a side exit. I cant see your engine mounts but mine are quite minimalist and theres lots of room to side exit. At the moment they are a bit tight to ground clearance but not lower than the Sump and bell housing.

Couldn't find your conversion posts but personal preference is not to have over the top manifold but through the side. I have loads of space as my engine bay is minimalist to say the least!

No, not me. Has anyone got a Silvertop Dip stick knocking around. I think I managed to chuck the original

At the moment I have a hand built system that exits under the bottom rail of the Chassis but am interested in a system that exits through the middle of the side panel like the old pinto one if anyone's seen one. I don't like the Zero 'over chassis' option. Pics would be nice

Hi Paul I gave Richard a bell and he suggested changing the wires over. It shouldn't make a difference but perhaps there's some diode in the EDIS which causes the problem. So, tried it and still no joy. Any idea how I can check that the signal I'm getting from the Flywheel sensor if correct and the readings I should get from the coil terminal plug? I'll be going down to Dunsfold tomorrow and add a dedicated Earth strap to the coil mounting from the Chassis.

Hello chaps. Sorry I haven't been around. Long story but back now and looking forward to getting the old girl back on the road. I will fix the PM problem now

One other thing. I haven't shielded the wiring yet but that shouldn't make a difference at the moment, should it.

Engine is Earthed and Edis wired as in the Diagram. I have a supply to the 12v centre terminal of the 3 pin coil pack plug. I haven't much of a clue how a multimeter works (wiring isn't my strong suit) but what setting do I need to check it's pulsing. I assume one rod goes on the terminal and one to earth to check and any sort of fluctuation is a good sign? If I've got pulsing and a supply, then it's got to be a dodgy earth hasn't it. Will have to recheck but sure it's Earthed into the chassis with the Negative terminal on the Battery.

Hi chaps I'm pulling my hair out here. I have a 2.0 Silvertop in a 2b that is refusing to spark. I'm running a standard EDIS 4 and will be using Megajolt but at the moment it's not connected. I'm also using the standard flywheel pickup so it's pretty straight forward. There is no wiring loom as I'm building it from scratch but all that's connected is the starter to the battery, the activation to the starter via the switch, the EDIS and the Coil pack. I'm crap at electrics but have managed to confirm that something is output from the Flywheel sensor into the EDIS and I have some sort of feed to the coil pack. I've changed to EDIS and Coil pack and no luck. I've switched the wires round on the sensor and rechecked all the wires on the EDIS but still no luck. Any ideas?

Still available but will be listed this weekend. No sensible offer refused.

I take it that it wasn't one of mine then. As Florin suggests, use paraffin for leak checking. Reading between the lines, I suggest if you are worried about mixing oil and water, then it's because the edges being welded aren't clean enough in the first place and you could be pulling impurities into the weld. I know some people on here use Mig but I would recommend always Tig welding. HTH

They are currently Blue but as I said, they need rubbing down and respraying because of surface scratching during storage.

I have a pair of brand new Clam wings for sale. There is some surface marks and light scratching where they have been sitting around and so will need spraying but are perfect apart from that. Collection from Surrey. £50

I really need to sell this soon and will take a reasonable offer on this but it really is a very nicely finished model and am urprised it hasn't gone. I will give it another few days and then it's off to fleabay so please drop me a PM if you are interested.

Hi Dean As Mowerman says, keep yourself safe. I doubt the car will be around but let us know you're back OK anyway. Regards KO

Dropping the price on this to £4,750 as it needs to be sold. A lot of car for the money.

Docs

For sale is the nicely finished 2003 built Robin Hood 2B+. The 2B+ is the last one released before the change to Zero and is the best they manufactured with full double wishbone suspension. It also has TSW wheels and additional side Louvred bonnet vents. It is correctly registered as a Robin Hood 2B+ and has a new 12 month MOT as of yesterday and has covered 8.5k miles since built. The car is fitted with very nice comfy Cobra seats, is fully carpeted / checker plated and has a lockable boot. It runs on a 2L Pinto engine and has heating, demister, wipers, sliding seats and full wet weather gear and doors. It is equally at home Touring or if you desire, a quick blast down Country lanes. I am 6ft and 16st and fit very comfortably in the car. It comes with a selection of RHOcaR back catalogues and has a folder full of receipts and official documents. If you want any more information or photos then please let me know but it is as you see it, a very nicely engineered and finished car that has all the nice extras and is ready to drive away today. £4,950

I can offer an exchange pinto shortened sump service with additional capacity and matched pickup pipe for £100 or shorten your sump and pipe. If you don't have a sump and pipe, I can offer them to buy for £150. These fit all Pinto engines but not Zetec.

Can you post some pictures? Depending on which rack you have and what the problem is, there are a few options. It may be on the manifold in which case you can mess about with the steering mounts and placement a bit or you can adjust the positioning of the upper steering mount position. You may also experience some problems with the alternator but this can be overcome with a modified mount.