Peter Bell

Glad you got the clutch working ok Steve but 40mm sounds a vast amount, are the rubbers the same design as the ones that came off? If the old ones are ok I guess I would just fit them again, then possibly get hold of an old cam cover to modify during the winter. Were these real Ford mounts or pattern ones? It is part of the fun? of a kit car that you do one job and it creates two more, good luck.

Peter

Steve, I have a sierra pedal box but the movement should be the same, I have just measured the cable movement and I get about 20mm. It may be a silly question but have you tried lifting the pedal towards you just to make sure you are getting the full movement on the adjustment?

Peter

Are you using the right flux? I seem to remember it is Borax based for Silver solder but could be wrong, I bet Jim knows!

Peter

Too Slow, story of my life!

Steve, 15mm doesn't sound very much, is that the cable or somewhere on the lever? Looking at the picture it looks as though the pawl is about mid position but it is hard to tell is there a hole in the bulkhead to stop the quadrant hitting it when the pedal is depressed?

Hi Steve, have you checked that there is still adjustment on the auto adjuster, and it is not at the end of its travel? Does the pedal feel the same as it used to?

Peter

Boggie, if you are sure there are no air locks in the system, do you have any vents in your bonnet? Try lifting up the back edge of the bonnet somehow and run the car again to see if it improves things. I beleive a problem is getting the hot air back out of the engine bay especially in the earlier cars with the engine bay floor panels.

Peter

Or look on the Dave Andrews site and make your own for more or less nothing!

Peter

Got another one of these emails yesterday from the US Bank! and Bill, after your comment I sent a copy of the mail to Citibank, thanks.

Peter

I'm worried about the lad behind! it looks as though he may be scarred for life.

Peter

Hi Alasdair, I had a similar problem too, it seemed to be a combination of dirty contacts at the hazard switch and the cowling rubbing on the button so it couldn't pop up freely. It is in a great position for collecting water and dust!

Peter

I just received an email from Citibank asking me to confirm my details to prevent fraud. The odd thing is I haven't got an account with them and the email address it arrived on isn't mine either, vaugely similar. Very strange

Peter

What have you got against (or even for) Cheri Blair then Bill?

Peter

Robbie, on the side of the mounting flange there be an identification number lightly stamped. something like 38 DGAS 1A or 3B or similar. this will helpto track it down. As far as a manifold you will need either an early sierra, cortina or crapi they should have the correct stud spacings for the carb.

Peter

What's at the bottom of your garden Barry? (don't say faries!)any way out there?

Peter

Block off the one between the throttle gears and attach the dizzy to the one at the back near the cam cover.

Peter

I had a farming uncle who had one of the first Renault Dauphines, he thought it was wonderful and used to carry sheep etc. around in it. When it died he buried it on the farm, might make an interesting discovery for some Time team program! Assuming there will be some trace left.

Peter

Thought you may like to see this, It is very similar to the one delivered to us all last week. written (copied) by a 19 year old student who has since been told off by the government.

http://www.preparingforemergencies.co.uk

Peter

Must learn how to make a link!

Yes it will be the same as yours Bob, and that is what I need. Some 2bs were/are fitted with twin pipes from the manifold to the silencer.

Peter.

Thanks for the offer, its the single pipe stainless one I need though I think that the 2b one may be the twin pipe jobbie.

Peter.

Just a thought Robbie, is your tank nice and clean inside? sometimes people have a lot of silicon sealer rolling around in the tank as a result of trying to seal it. This can block the feed pipe, when it is no longer sucking, the crap moves away allowing more fuel to get through until the next lump blocks it off again. Then again perhaps you have gone through this.

Peter.

Robin, that is exactly what you need, if you do a search on here you will find lots of info to that effect. Just make sure you have the right type of cap on the rad.

Peter

Has anyone a standard silencer for an S7? well, just the front pipe I need.

Thanks, Peter

Tim the only radiator hose which would be fuel proof will be fluorosilicone, the standard stuff is usually made from epdm which definately isn't.

Peter.

Reminds me of all the wonderful ones that Chris A used to do for the magazine, in the old, pre pc. (in more ways than one) days. Perhaps he could issue a collection of them?

Peter

OK Jim I'll try to defend this a bit, this is a standard rad with a temperature sensor in the bottom, (Fiat 127) fine aluminium finned, copper tubes. By making sure the temperature of the water returning to the engine is reasonably cool you are providing a temperature gradient to allow the engine to cool. If you are worried about overcooling, (not much fear in a Hood I think) water flow will be controlled by the thermostat anyway, which is sensing the temperature of the water coming from the engine. I had a problem with a different car where the sensor was high up in the system and when the coolant level dropped due to it boiling, the sensor no longer thought that it was hot!

Peter