Dave Ed

is it a "double " cam then, gives 32 bhp

hi chris, it might be worth getting hold of bboyfastdan on ebay, he's one of the Rhocar members here, but i cant remember his user name, (too much vodka, it is nearly Christmas !) i assume that as you are asking the question that you cant weld or fabricate your own, so get in contact with him as he makes up most intake flanges for most engines at your own designs, at a very competitive price, mild steel or aluminium. engine type is easy, so just tell him the spacing of the TB's and the angle you need, I'm a carb man so there may be other stuff needed as well but all questions can be answered here.. hopefully. Dave

hi Nick, i'd be very interested in the gauges and the gear lever if they aren't taken already. PM sent Dave

ages ago i bought some rear screen repair conductive paint from Halfords,(imagine silver tip-ex) might be worth seeing if they still do a similar product and araldite the tabs back onto the window and reconnect to the window by carefully painting and bridging the divide. Dave

hi there, wow shopping and not even christmas yet ! i'm interested in items 15,17,19,27and 28 pm sent regards Dave

yep its damping both ways with no spring. i was sure it was working ok, but i just couldn't help thinking i was missing something. it looks like i'm being a bit blond, as they are in perfect order. what damper settings do most people have set on their cars? i think i'll start half way and adjust as necessary cheers for your help everyone Dave

ooh am very interested in some of these parts mirrors and sump PM sent Dave

thats what i thought, its just that i'm now 1000 miles away and still shopping for parts and trying to remember dimensions and positions. i'm also fixing my tin top out here and ordering parts online. doesn't take much for me to get confused dave

hi guys, quick question, i've purchased some almost new Gaz shocks online and have now had a chance to check them over. I have noticed that with the spring removed the dampers retreat into the main body with resistance like you would expect but they dont return up again as i would expect them too. is this normal? is it the spring which returns the damper to the extended position? Can the coilovers be recharged with gas. Am i being an idiot? cheers, all comments welcome Dave

hi stuart i originally had 13's and now have 15's with 50 walls 195 width. they fit nicely but i had to get longer wheel studs. check out my garage as i have a couple of pics which might help you Dave

just re-read the last post. looks like the earths are fine as battery voltage direct to the fuses increases the brightness, relay is replaced and therefore assumed a goodun. i would suggest you look at the back of the light switch gear. i'll have another look at the diagrams and have a think Dave

Yep i came to the same conclusion. I would still double check the earth first, all the lights high and low left and right use common earth. If you can locate and clean / re-terminate the connection so that all strands are crimped then you will eliminate the earth from the equation. For instance, if you have a bad earth then you wont get a full voltage drop at that point, if there is not a full voltage drop from battery (12v) to earth (0v) ie 12v total drop, then you have whats called a standing voltage (i think). Therefore you might only be dropping 8.5 volts and that is why your lights might be dim. You will still read 12v before the relay and hopefully after the relay Look for things like scotch locks, twisted wires covered in tape, not all strands crimped together etc.. If Jez is a wizard at elastic trickery then utilise his experience. Dave

Right i take it that actually all of your lights are dim then, dipped and main. If both the main and dipped are weak then i think that its before the fuses as thats where it splits to a parallel circuit. have you tried replacing the dipped beam relay with the driving lamp relay, they should be the same, is the relay hot to touch? otherwise check your earth return to chassis from the lights. check you have a 0 ohm (clean contact to chassis, not paint) remove and clean anyway. my indicators did the same thing when i rewired the front of the exmo, flashed dimly, i cleaned the earth and then they were perfect. although it was still the same earth point !

ok, assuming that you have a ford loom and fusebox - then there is 1 relay (Haynes page 429 item 24) dip beam relay. this will feed battery voltage from pin 87 to one side of fuse 17 and 16 which are the dip beam fuses ( 1 per light), in theory if you have 2 fuses and 2 wires feeding 2 lamps then this is a parallel circuit. there shouldn't be a volt drop as they are individually fed from the battery and shouldn't affect each other. if you have an aftermarket loom make sure that you havent wired the headlights up so that they link from one lamp to the other with a single cable. does your flasher and main beam work correctly? gotta mention after having read another topic post, i'm using the haynes book no. 903, just to avoid confusion. Dave

how are the headlights wired up? do you have two separate feeds to the lights ie 2 wires both with 12.5 volts from separate wires and fuses as per an original sierra loom and fuse box. Or do you have 1 live wire feeding both lights. If its the latter then the voltage drop will be equal across both ie 6 volts each giving dim lights Also check your earth cables and clean them up, you might have a bad earth which causes dim lights Dave

i know that you mean, i'm a subscriber and i still haven't recieved this months yet. I did recieve last months quicker then i've ever had it before, and it was posted to overseas ! I also think that its better than the other monthly mag.

ok cool, does the collar just slip over the insert, if so how is it held in place to stop it moving i'm not back in the uk for 6 weeks yet so have still got loads of time to sort it out

its all about fuel pressure you need a pump that will give 2-3 psi, i think the pinto pump will over fuel the carb conversion which will lead to bad running but i might be wrong. Basically you need to replicate the fuel system from the bike onto the pinto then all you need to do is re-size the jets to feed the carbs properly. Dave

hi stuart, it will depend on which carbs you get as they will all be spaced differently, there will be 1 carb per cylinder using a inlet manifold designed to fit the pinto at one end and the carb spacing at the other often kinked upwards to replicate the original bike confguration, plus it allows clearance of the chassis towards the front of the car. Most people i have come across use Honda Fireblade carbs, but almost any thing can be fitted. there are different bore diameters i.e.36 and 38, just like weber 40's and 45's. GBS do a kit with pretty much everything or you can source them your self ebay or bike breakers. Bog Bros do very good manifolds and can help with your questions as can all the carb converts on the forum. sorry i haven't put the links in but a search on bike carbs and a look at signatures etc will give a good guide. hope this helps somewhat regards Dave

I looked at the adjustable tca's and corby motorsport are cheaper. http://www.corbymotorsport.com/sierra-all-2wd-models-pair-adjustable-tca-p-2243.html also look here http://compbrake.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tca&osCsid=xmrxfakoica i dont know if the difference in price reflects difference in quality, they come in 2 types, pinch bolt or normal i'll be seeing what Santa brings me in exactly 6 months time Dave

as the cars we drive weigh approx half that of the donors i think most people run at about 20-22 psi there should be various posts if you search for them. dave

what are the possibilities of building a 4x4 robin hood. would the geometry of the front driveshafts etc be able to fit or be re-engineered to fit a zero?

cheers guys, this is all excellent information. thanks to everyone who has contributed so far dave

i had a similar thing on my Alfa Sud Sprint several years ago but it kept misfiring and i couldn't find out why. It wasn't until i broke down near Bury-st-Edmunds along the back roads (think Severance)that the AA man told me it was the rotar arm, looking back it was obvious but i looked at the damn thing time and time again for at least 6 months before the car stopped working. Thank God that my brother has the same initials as me. Cheers AA. Dave