Jump to content

speedtripledan

Community user
  • Posts

    6,546
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    104

Posts posted by speedtripledan

  1. When my temps were down at 80 or so there was less expansion, now I'm running in the 90,s there is obviously more expansion. I want some where for the expansion to go then return. Stockport Steve has hit the nail on the head in how he describes it or at the very least it's what I thought and wanted confirmation of
    As far as pump direction and gauges the pump is ewp and there are 3 temp sensors all reading the same.
    Being heavily modified and running almost double the bhp Henry ford intended means the engine is potentially generating a lot more heat.
    I.m trying to create the car for every occasion b road blasting cruising on a large tour or track days, cruising it runs cooler than thrashing and i want my cooling to handle both extremes without the need to pop the bonnet every time I go out.
    Thanks for all your input it's all valuable

  2. Ive spent hrs reading on the internet and am getting a little confused, i want to add some form of expansion system to my engine, it will need to be pressurised as the temps are siting close to 100deg etc, how do i plumb a one of these systems to my engine,

     

    My rad has a 10mm outlet at the top (blanked off) the retro ford water rail has a bypass out let (blanked off) and i,m using an inline filler neck with 16lb cap in the top hose. with over pressure outlet, this is plumbed to a gbs tank with inlet to base of tank and out let to atmosphere

     

    how would i plumb a tank into this setup whilst keeping it under pressure..

     

    cheers

  3. Its the coolex polo derived rad 42mm thick, with a high quality spal fan (not cheapo copy) best you can get for the 7 style car. bought brand new a few weeks ago and used for 5miles only whilst playing with my cars cooling system.

     

    If you have marginal cooling or over heating and your using the original robin hood supplied rads this will most likely sort things out for you...

     

    post-2558-0-01934800-1508870343_thumb.jpg

     

     

    £200 collected

  4. I only have one sender from Retro Ford, I have drilled a small hole in stat. When the water rail was getting warm I turned engine off, to risky to leave engine running with wrong temp gauge.

    retro ford reads 220 ohm and the etb reads 55ohms at the same temp approx 15deg, matched etb senders are only £10

  5. Just check the 2 sender's at the same temp for there resistance. My etb sender fitted straight into the rail along side the the ECU temp sender I then drilled and tapped a 1/4npt for my pump control sensor. Do you have a bypass connected or small hole through the stat? You need it to equalise the temps both side of the stat

  6. Relays are simple, pins 30 and 87 are used for feed and load pins 85 and 86 are switching, apply 12v and grd to 85 and 86 and they switch 30 and 87 from normally open to closed.

  7. The difference in performance will be in another post. Race line versus retro.

    It has taken me a whole day to make a new coil pack bracket which with the race line and standard set up was not required. The description for the retro ford water rail fails to mention the fact that it will not fit unless you relocate the coil... much as a standard system may work I didn't want it.... I like the bling

  8. when i spoke to retro they were aware the original dipstick tube will not fit, they said they designed the water rail to work with there oil sump which relocates the dipstick to the intake side of the engine.

    my only gripe is i wish companys would write accurate descriptions of the products they sell,

×
×
  • Create New...