megadodo

You can easily immobilise any of the circuits but it does all depend on the which loom is fitted and how well it's fitted. 2 breaks are required for Cat 2 style protection. I always do the starter and fuel pump or ECU supply. You need to disguise where the breaks are done so it is hard to bypass them. You can also get clever and do some "fake" breaks that actually do nothing but delay the thief as they try to re-instate the fake wiring.

I blame the education system and certain people's inability to use the apostrophe, to replace missing letters, correctly!

Are they missing or just faulty? A rebuild kit from someone like biggred brakes can save you money. http://www.biggred.co.uk

"As a rough guide, alluminium is approx 3.5 times lighter than St/St by mass." Mr pedant here, don't you mean by volume? Even with only 1 L?

If you have definitely tried the instructions to the letter then the consensus here is that the hardware has an issue irrespective of network lock or jailbreak status. How old is it? If it's under 2 years old its worth taking to an Apple store and make a stink as they will swap almost anything to avoid a fuss! You should see some of the broken stuff they have taken in and given a refurbished unit out to replace! Their warranty costs are huge! PS fine thanks Daz, and you?

Hi Daz, Give this a whirl. It will remove the "jailbreak" but if it works then just go to "jailbreak me" from the iPhone to put it back. You then need to sync to iTunes again to restore the missus's data. if all of this doesn't work you phone may be recoverable but I would physically have to have it to attempt repair! You may loose the network unlock bit as well, but it's worth doing to recover an otherwise "useless" iPhone HTH 1. Disconnect the USB cable from the iPhone, leave the other end connected to your Mac/PC 2. Launch iTunes 3. Press and hold the Home and Power button on the top of the iPhone to turn off the device 4. Press and continue to hold the Home button while you reconnect the USB cable to your iPhone, this will cause the iPhone to turn on 5. Continue to hold the Home button until an alert message in iTunes appears that an iPhone in recovery mode has been detected Now that the iPhone is in recovery mode, you must restore the device: • From iTunes, look under the “Summary” tab • Click on the “Restore” button within iTunes This will wipe all files, settings, and apps from the iPhone, including the passcode. When the restore is finished, the iPhone will be at the factory settings. At this point you can choose to start from scratch or to restore the iPhone from a backup.

I know it's sad but I did a simple project plan (no time scales) with what step had to be done in what order etc. From that I built a "to do" list and just kept doing 1 thing at a time. The plan evolved over time and bits were added to the "to do" list but usually more slowly than things came off it! If you get stuck (in a rut or other wise) pick something else off your list but have no more than a couple of items on the go! Try and get all the refurbishing bits done first so you have all you need to bolt on when you need it! Take plenty of thinking time and don't regard it as wasted! Measure twice, cut once and don't use my rulers 7 tapes which despite measuring at least twice still manage to loose or gain at 1cm! The biggest problem I had was with no instructions was deciding how to do something only to discover that choice prevented something else from fitting properly so think like a chess player, at least 2 moves ahead! HTH

Chassis number needs to be stamped on the offside (drivers side)of the chassis in a clearly visible place.

DVLA just want to check what you declare you car to be, i.e. what engine, running gear you are using is what you say on your declaration form. They will check the engine and chassis number and any other ID marks they can find. Takes 5 minutes (unless you get chatting like I did)unless they find a discrepancy (wrong engine number for example, Vauxhall gearbox when you said it was a Ford etc.)

Well done, congratulations. Just a little longer now! Don't need to get an MOT, the IVA is good enough!

Oil temp gauge sender could be a dipstick one, or fitted to the sump plug but the most common is connected to the engine oil galleries via a t piece to feed the pressure gauge/switch unit and the temp sender. I'm going the sump plug route.

The three gauges I would recommend are oil pressure, oil temperature and voltmeter. All are highly informative and are great early warning indicators potentially saving you money and from having to be trailered home! I'm currently putting my gauge panel together so I can get it on my car ASAP. Just need to get the oil temp sender replaced as it has gone open circuit sat in my garage for last 15 years unused!

If the activities are indeed illegal (and not just immoral)then just remind the employer of which particular law they are in breech of and try the CAB for more advice. The problem is that a lot of "beliefs" in what is legal or not for an employer to do are simply untrue. Many a so called "expert" in a union and many companies HR departments have been proven wrong when it comes to the crunch. Initial advice from a respected employment lawyer is often cheaper than a couple of years of union subs! There is also plenty of documentation on government websites about employment law that is free. We have the opposite problem with our HR in that they won't sack anyone even if they are grossly incompetent!

No 12 volts to that switch. 1 wire comes from the handbrake switch, 1 wire comes from the warning bulb in the dash (joined together in the cap, you should be able to see the 2 that are joined through the plastic) and the last is a ground wire. HTH

They are plenty of good waterproof connectors you can buy from CBS, or Autolec or any of the ones on ebay. Got to be better than a big hole in the side of your car! After all your not Rowan Atkinson, are you?

Okay, the gauge is supplied with 12 volts via the ignition and grounds via the sender which varies the resistance based on temperature. So if it swings all the way over when the ignition is on it is likely to be the wrong value resistor in sender, open circuit (easily checked by removing the wire from the sender) or a short in the sender wire. So, check the wire for grounding/short by removing the wire from the gauge and the sender and checking for a short or resistance to ground. If no fault in the wire then the sender needs swapping for a known good one or the dash is faulty (do you want to borrow my sierra dash or have you butchered the wiring for you dash?). HTH

"But the Sierra does have in in tank pre pump filter, its in the middle of the plastic swirl pot" No swirl pot in my sierra tank, I looked, and it was out of 2.0i. I could see nothing in the outlet pipe and I shone a torch into the sender hole to see! There was definitely no pre filter! "If you'd seen how many filters were inside a petrol pump, you'd know that the debris didn't come from the pump." As for the dust and dirt I can only think it must have got in between tank fitting and finishing all the initial plumbing, in hindsight that is perfectly possible given the way the wind can blow debris under my garage doors! Isn't hindsight wonderful? Still, once all my bits arrive, a good blow job on the tank and a pre filter should help!

I am probably preaching to the converted but.......! I have a small USB camera that when I was building the car I played with to check out various parts of the car, 1 of which was my fuel tank. After cleaning the inside of the tank I could nothing inside it, it was spotless. I built the tank as per the sierra i.e. tank straight to pump with no filter. A few days before my IVA the pump failed (now I know why) and was replaced . This weekend due to fuel starvation in R/H bends I stripped out the boot and rear fuel systems and I could not believe the amount of cr@p in the tank ! Now, 90% of the fuel has come straight out of the pumps in commercial stations with only 10% coming from a can (which has been used for my mower and cement mixer with no issues at all). There where flakes of something red, brown and green in the bottom of the tank. Bits of stuff 2 mm wide and some small twigs and other organic matter were also found???? When the new system goes in I shall be using a new pre filter before the LP pump and a new post filter! I have blown the feed and return pipes through to be on the safe side. Someone on the forum did warn me when I first replaced the pump but how wrong could Ford be?? HTH someone else. I guess in tank pumps must have some sort of screen in them?

Do take your build photos to the test itself as they may help clear up belt mounting issues etc. I took mine on both a laptop and an iPad in case one went wrong! In the end he only looked at 2 photos but you never know! Printed ones (how old fashioned ) would be just as good of course!

I sent mine on a CD and a memory card with no concerns. They sent them back to me when they were finished with them.

Carbon wrapping a dash even with curves is easy, just need a heat gun!

Although it doe appear to have come out as a reply rather than an edit????