megadodo

When things turn up at my house I get asked if they are for her camper van! If yes then I get asked when are they going to be fitted, if no I get asked how much they cost me?????

If you can get the seals changed then go for it. Just make sure they are the correct specification and not some cheap alternative. How much you will save over a complete re-con unit though is unknown to me?

Nothing wrong with copper brake lines if they are the correct specification of course, and they don't rust like steel lines! If you have any doubts about their condition or specification (a new set is hardly expensive) then change them but I would be surprised if any kit car uses steel brake lines!

I think you have solved most of the issue with the gasket! One of the chaps on this forum fitted a carb inlet gasket and it caused an air leak and I'm sure the injector spray pattern will be partially blocked. Don't "swap" the AFM until you have tried it with the correct gasket. Just to make clear, the filler cap breather pipe should go in to the main inlet air intake pipe between the AFM and the inlet manifold.

Pinto EFI throttle vanes are known for being dirty and sticking slightly open. Give the whole outside of the vane and the inlet manifold mating face (the bit the vane closes on) a good clean. Also ensure that the adjusting screw has not been used to hold the vane open (mine was and gave the symptoms you have!) Check the idle control valve is functioning and has no airleaks. Check that there are no air leaks between the AFM and the inlet manifold. Also check that your throttle cable is allowing the vane to close fully. The timing is critical but it sounds like you know what to do there. There are no other adjustments to make but you may have a faulty AFM (air flow meter). It may be a case of trying known working AFM and idle control valve to eliminate them as the cause. Have you used the correct EFI inlet manifold gasket? HTH

Here's mine. 3m carbon wrap, dead easy to do and hides a lot! http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy7/megadodo/Megadodos%202B%20plus/DSCF3065.jpg

Yes you can use the coil positive supply and the starter wire can be picked up anywhere between the ignition barrel and the starter motor. The immobiliser wires should be capable of being wired either way round!

Yes, starter and coil can be done but they are easy to bypass as both are under the bonnet. Which ever wire you choose to cut can just be snipped and connected to the 2 wires from the immobiliser for each circuit. I always tried to make sure that each break was well hidden and that the immobiliser wires exited the oe loom well away from where the break was made.

You can easily immobilise any of the circuits but it does all depend on the which loom is fitted and how well it's fitted. 2 breaks are required for Cat 2 style protection. I always do the starter and fuel pump or ECU supply. You need to disguise where the breaks are done so it is hard to bypass them. You can also get clever and do some "fake" breaks that actually do nothing but delay the thief as they try to re-instate the fake wiring.

I blame the education system and certain people's inability to use the apostrophe, to replace missing letters, correctly!

Are they missing or just faulty? A rebuild kit from someone like biggred brakes can save you money. http://www.biggred.co.uk

"As a rough guide, alluminium is approx 3.5 times lighter than St/St by mass." Mr pedant here, don't you mean by volume? Even with only 1 L?

Assuming the by pass relay is the correct one to use on the car (can bus or obd equipped presumably?) I would always use a fuse between the source and the relay. I would avoid the use of scotch blocks as they have long term corrosion issues and must be correctly fitted (easier said than done due to wire size issues). If am adding into an existing wire (rather than than lengthening) I strip 1cm of outside insulation on the original wire and the new wire, twist the new wire end a couple of time (longitudinally) and then wrap that round the original and solder the joint. Then wrap with insulating tape and that joint will never fail. Get the joint hot with a soldering iron or other suitable heat source and melt the solder into the joint, don't apply hot solder to warm the joint!

If you have definitely tried the instructions to the letter then the consensus here is that the hardware has an issue irrespective of network lock or jailbreak status. How old is it? If it's under 2 years old its worth taking to an Apple store and make a stink as they will swap almost anything to avoid a fuss! You should see some of the broken stuff they have taken in and given a refurbished unit out to replace! Their warranty costs are huge! PS fine thanks Daz, and you?

Hi Daz, Give this a whirl. It will remove the "jailbreak" but if it works then just go to "jailbreak me" from the iPhone to put it back. You then need to sync to iTunes again to restore the missus's data. if all of this doesn't work you phone may be recoverable but I would physically have to have it to attempt repair! You may loose the network unlock bit as well, but it's worth doing to recover an otherwise "useless" iPhone HTH 1. Disconnect the USB cable from the iPhone, leave the other end connected to your Mac/PC 2. Launch iTunes 3. Press and hold the Home and Power button on the top of the iPhone to turn off the device 4. Press and continue to hold the Home button while you reconnect the USB cable to your iPhone, this will cause the iPhone to turn on 5. Continue to hold the Home button until an alert message in iTunes appears that an iPhone in recovery mode has been detected Now that the iPhone is in recovery mode, you must restore the device: • From iTunes, look under the “Summary” tab • Click on the “Restore” button within iTunes This will wipe all files, settings, and apps from the iPhone, including the passcode. When the restore is finished, the iPhone will be at the factory settings. At this point you can choose to start from scratch or to restore the iPhone from a backup.

I know it's sad but I did a simple project plan (no time scales) with what step had to be done in what order etc. From that I built a "to do" list and just kept doing 1 thing at a time. The plan evolved over time and bits were added to the "to do" list but usually more slowly than things came off it! If you get stuck (in a rut or other wise) pick something else off your list but have no more than a couple of items on the go! Try and get all the refurbishing bits done first so you have all you need to bolt on when you need it! Take plenty of thinking time and don't regard it as wasted! Measure twice, cut once and don't use my rulers 7 tapes which despite measuring at least twice still manage to loose or gain at 1cm! The biggest problem I had was with no instructions was deciding how to do something only to discover that choice prevented something else from fitting properly so think like a chess player, at least 2 moves ahead! HTH

I took my brother and his 2 boys out in the 2b at the weekend and gave the car "a damn good thrashing". The fuel surge issue appears to have gone thanks to the LP pump and swirl pot ! It is quite scary how much cr@p the fuel filter has stopped in the short time its been in . I think I'll pull it out and back flush it! The car is still grounding even after another bout of spring seat tightening and the ride height does look high when looking at the gap between the tyre and the rear wheel arch but it is better than it was! While I had the C spanner out I thought I'd take a look at the front shocks & springs and its clear there is an issue! The N/S front wing has always "jiggled" about more than the O/S and I'd always put that down to the fixings becoming loose and I have had to tighten them every time I go out! this time however they were NOT loose and the wing still "jiggling" even though I can't move it any more than the other by hand! The car sits slightly lower on that side as well even though the spring is wound up more tightly??? I thought to myself, have I got a matched pair of shocks & springs or not so I dug out the graphs supplied with the shocks and the damping "maps" are significantly different! I'll call Dampertech for advice on what to check for!

I had the same issue even with Gaz shocks, but then I had no idea (still don't really ) on how best to set them up. I've wound the spring seats up several times and set the damper rate to 14 clicks and it's better but with 2 up it can still smack the ground on a dip in the road!

Chassis number needs to be stamped on the offside (drivers side)of the chassis in a clearly visible place.

DVLA just want to check what you declare you car to be, i.e. what engine, running gear you are using is what you say on your declaration form. They will check the engine and chassis number and any other ID marks they can find. Takes 5 minutes (unless you get chatting like I did)unless they find a discrepancy (wrong engine number for example, Vauxhall gearbox when you said it was a Ford etc.)

Well done, congratulations. Just a little longer now! Don't need to get an MOT, the IVA is good enough!

Oil temp gauge sender could be a dipstick one, or fitted to the sump plug but the most common is connected to the engine oil galleries via a t piece to feed the pressure gauge/switch unit and the temp sender. I'm going the sump plug route.

The three gauges I would recommend are oil pressure, oil temperature and voltmeter. All are highly informative and are great early warning indicators potentially saving you money and from having to be trailered home! I'm currently putting my gauge panel together so I can get it on my car ASAP. Just need to get the oil temp sender replaced as it has gone open circuit sat in my garage for last 15 years unused!

If the activities are indeed illegal (and not just immoral)then just remind the employer of which particular law they are in breech of and try the CAB for more advice. The problem is that a lot of "beliefs" in what is legal or not for an employer to do are simply untrue. Many a so called "expert" in a union and many companies HR departments have been proven wrong when it comes to the crunch. Initial advice from a respected employment lawyer is often cheaper than a couple of years of union subs! There is also plenty of documentation on government websites about employment law that is free. We have the opposite problem with our HR in that they won't sack anyone even if they are grossly incompetent!

No 12 volts to that switch. 1 wire comes from the handbrake switch, 1 wire comes from the warning bulb in the dash (joined together in the cap, you should be able to see the 2 that are joined through the plastic) and the last is a ground wire. HTH