megadodo

Whilst my 2B was being MOTed I was chatting to the garage owner about my plans for the car, we got onto camshafts and was it worth doing in an EFI Pinto and he said most certainly yes, with a vernier pulley. So I already have a new camshaft and followers that have deeper and longer opening phases, I just need the vernier pulley (its all in the timing apparently!).

So, any recommendations, and if so why?

My 2B passed her second MOT with no advisories, her build was complemented by the garage owner who races all sorts of cars in his spare time including some Sierras! He has just taken delivery of a 1300 Pinto powered Sierra, ultra rare apparently! He's not going to race that, just a full restoration.

Whilst the 2B was on the ramp I had a quick look underneath and some jobs are required, sump is scratched and dented so I'm going to build a sump guard, the front crankshaft oil seal is weeping and the oil pressure switch and gauge assembly is also weeping oil!

Worst of all is how few miles I did last year, only 310! I'm embarrassed!

I solemnly promise to do far more this year, clearly I was enjoying my M3 a lot more than I thought! Please accept my humble apolgies

I have the same engine in my daily drive (320i Touring) and I'm very impressed with it all though it's not as economical as my 318is was and boy, does it consume some oil!

Love the eight on the grill, nice touch!

My 2b was bought from GBS and did not have a chassis number, none did unless sold as a factory built car.

So, the latest version of IVA says if the headlights are turned off when the rear fogs were on, then if the headlights are turned on again the fog lights must not come on unless the fog light switch is actually turned on once more?

While in theory, the heated seats will use more fuel (increased load on the alternator I accept), it will be insignificant and completely un-measurable in the real world. You drive a kit car and your worrying about a minuscule theoretical increase in consumption?The logistics involved in doing anything other than a straight forward £50 ebay heated seat kit is "amusing".

I've successfully used swarfega scrubbed into an oil stain and then used a jet wash to rinse it out of a boot floor carpet, stain and smell gone with no visible colour change to the carpet (light grey)

Damaged Parcels Delivered is the acronym expansion, otherwise mostly a good service from them

Wish I'd known that when I built a brick wall to close off one end of a room in a day, still it was inside and there was no wind to blow it over! Get well soon Mark!

How do you turn them off?

Holy crap Simon, nice work, but all that to save one relay?????

Thoroughly recommend the camber shims, easy to do, huge improvement in handling and it solved my constantly having to steer the thing to stay in straight line problem.

I'm very surprised by those saying the biker is in the right! He is blatantly ignoring 2 points of the highway code! The "best" you could say is that it "may" be 50/50 (I personally disagree with that) but there is no way you can argue the biker is in the right!

Oh, and DO report him to the police!

Sorry to hear that as it will cost you now for certain, all I can suggest is you screw the little oik for all you can get for riding without insurance!

The problem with bad earths (not a missing earth) Is that the current finds other ways to travel leading to "odd" things happening, one example of this is very common and involves tail lights working until the brakes are operated and both lights go dim, the tail light had been earthing through the brake light until the brakes were operated! I have seen engines turn over but not start before, rework the earths and not only do they turn over faster but they also start. When a current path is in adequate the resistance tends to increase which can drag the battery voltage down causing issues elsewhere. Another view point is that elimination of possible faults is a great diagnostic tool! I have worked with car electrics for 40 years now and the first thing I ever check is the earth for the circuit I'm checking, you may be surprised to hear that I would estimate at least 50% of faults I have dealt with (in old and modern cars) are earthing related.

No way is it 50:50, as previously mentioned the biker ignored 2 points of the highway codes. I have no problem with him overtaking if he chooses to do so but then the onus is on him to do so slowly, safely and at his own risk. Although I bet Richard will still be out of pocket at the conclusion of this and 2 law firms will be better off and our insurance policies next time round will be that little bit more expensive!!!!

It may have been mentioned already but ensure that the engine has both an earth to the chassis and to the battery and that the battery is also earthed to the chassis. Make sure the earthing cables are in good order and the connection are secure and clean. Assuming that this is the case, then your diagnosis on a faulty alternator is likely.

From my understanding of ICVs is that they are typically only in use when the throttle is fully closed. They then regulate the air into the manifold to keep the engine idling. As soon as the TPS (throttle position sensor) sees action then the ICV will close. So, if you try and start the car on part throttle then the ICV will play no part in the operation.

So to recap, if it will start on part throttle but not on a closed throttle then maybe the ICV is faulty/blocked/dirty, if it wont start at all go back to basics, have you got fuel (check the plugs), have you got a spark?

Its not just BMW drivers, loads of people need "reminding" with a flash of high beam. Too many people driving around "without due care and attention".

My 2.0 litre EFI (running standard set-up) has the smallest of leaks from the front crankshaft oil seal but that's it. A couple of drops on the floor after a run, never had to top it up between changes and my throttle is binary and I know the rev limiter works, frequently.

Another thing to consider with cat C & D cars is resale value and insurance pay out. Resale will always be less than a none cat C or D car even if it is in superb condition! You may have an immaculate well cared for car that if you were to have to replace would cost far more than the insurance valuation just because it is C or D. Now, if you are looking for a bargain then buying a C or D car makes sense especially if you view it the long term and intend to run the car into oblivion!

I doubt the switch is faulty as they generally have a common feed that is split and the fused for each side of the car. Having a dual pole switch just bumps up manufacturing costs. Given that both lights on 1 side are faulty I would go down the fuse or feed to the fuse route first.

I'm going to have to go and have a look at mine now! It may be because the caliper piston is painted orange that I "think" there's an issue with pad position.