megadodo

I'm sure a latching relay is the way to solve this one. I.e. ignition off and the relay unlatches. I'll do some research and see if I can find some suitable.

I'm just guessing here but the 2 horizontal contacts on each switch are probably for illumination of the switches, i.e. 12v across them and a bulb will light up! Either as an "on" indication or to "light" them up when it's dark! The left hand switch is probably a change over switch, in one position 2 of the vertical contacts are connected to each other and in the other position the other is connected to one of the first two, i.e. one common and two that "changeover". Only way to check is with a multimeter. The one on the right is probably just an on/off switch, in one position the 2 vertical terminals are connected and in the other they aren't. HTH

Ryanair on time? You are joking. I used to fly to Ireland every few months and the only time the plane left when it should was when I got to the airport 5 minutes late! Cost me £55 to get the next flight.

Absolutely bloody amazing! Well done folks, what a club! I would to put my name down to help but as with any of the shows my presence is always weather dependant and don't want to volunteer and not show up! I have quite a good digital video camera that never gets used, if the club want's it, it's the clubs. It's a JVC-DVL357E, it's by no means a modern jobbie but it is digital, it records on to tape or SD card and there are 3 batteries. Just let me know.

PVA glue, mix it with water 10:1 (water:PVA) and put a couple of coats on the wood. When dry, lightly sand with a 400 grit and the carbon wrap will stick nicely. My gauge pod was plywood and I just used some varnish I had lying around, carbon wrap still stuck to that after 2 years!

Does sound the floats need adjusting to me as well! Maybe the valve to seat interface is dirty possibly?

What is a cheque?

I never have had a problem with Burton. Ordered 2 fuel pumps from them the week before last, didn't pay for next day delivery but there were at my house the next day!

I have just got back from my first drive with the camber wedges fitted. I got them from Peter Bell on this forum. I have read all the theory but the proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say! What an obvious difference they make, well worth the cost and effort!

The "twitchyness" (is that a word?) in a straight line has gone, the car always had to be corrected a lot when driving in a straight line, not much but you were aware of, not any more! The bump steer where the back of the car would jiggle over bumps and ruts has gone as well. If these improvements were the only ones then it would be worth but there's more!

I swear the car rolls less in a corner and the break away at the limit seems higher on corners I know well and abuse regularly!

I couldn't think of a better £32 spent on that car so far. Now I'm contemplating the GBS front end improved handling kit!

6 seconds dead according to my Evodash (calibrated against a GPS unit) with 120 bhp efi Pinto! Quite pleased with that given the diff ratio.

I have just fitted mine this morning, took the hubs right off and only had to file the inner hole out a fraction on the shims to get them to sit on the lip of the hub. Once on the wheel sits nicely vertical. I gave the disc a lick of paint while they were off!

For those interested, these are the shims. They are tapered in 2 directions

This is where they go.

And this what they look like when fitted.

View from the rear

and from the front

Nothing to do with me, a classic fla

Looking good, but tidy up those spark plug leads!

Mine ( I think ) was a combination of crap in the filter which was very fine and hard to see and was removed with an airline along with an intermittent LP pump. Have yet to try it on a long run in the heat but certainly starts much more quickly now! I was surprised how fine the crap in the filter was and just how much it had restricted the flow through the filter!

I'll be making my own way there, have we got a stand number or location?

Seconded on Hammerite for brake calipers! Use it on my daily drive and the paint is still hanging on in there after 40k miles of braking. Air driven needle chisel superb for removing flaky rust.

If the starter has the solenoid built in and is wired directly from the battery then 1.5 mm wire would be fine for all the rest of it (what little there is in a mower!).

BTW my calipers were both R/H thread!

In the caliper bore there is a mechanism that is held in by a circlip. It's relatively easy to get out but quite awkward to get back in! It is doable with patience though. The handbrake acts on this to push the whole mechanism up the the bore. The large spring pulls this mechanism back down the bore. This mechanism has a threaded bolt upon which you will find the piston. The hydraulic pressure is more than enough to push the piston up the bore while turning on the thread to act on the disc. As the pressure drops the mechanism relaxes just enough to drop the pressure off the pad.

On a good caliper it is relatively easy to wind the piston back in and out, if you can't then maybe there is some corrosion? Get an overhaul kit from Biggred and replace the inner and outer seals and clean both bore and piston and all should be well. If the handbrake action is free and easy with no leak at the handbrake pivot seal then you don't need to take that inner mechanism out. One of my handbrake mechanisms was very stiff, once I had the piston out I worked it back an forth several times and it freed off. The other one leaked from the pivot seal and had to be completely stripped.

I had exactly the same problem twice yesterday! The high pressure pump felt very hot but I need to do more diagnosis to be sure what the problem is.

Well done for keeping going. I understand the challenge you had with your car! Give us a shout when your ready for a run out!

Why not drive it there?

I put my 2B plus through IVA just over 2 years ago and have loads of build pictures. Please feel free to ask about any area of the build. My car passed at the first attempt and only a slight mod on the day at the advice of the testor. The rules are quite easy to follow once you have ploughed through the manual several hundred times!

Did you completely disassemble the caliper including the handbrake mechanism (those awkward circlips included) ? If so then your alignment of the cam of the handbrake pin could be wrong. If you have to disasemble again make sure that the screw onto which the piston sits moves in and out when you move the handbrake lever.

I don't know your specifc caliper but surely even if the pads were worn they would stop the caliper itself from rubbing on the disc or do you mean the fixed caliper bracket on which the caliper floats???