fry61

Had this style of right-angled drive many years (30+) ago when working for local electricity board & 2 weeks after issue we were banned from using them. they worked fine so long as your grip on the green body was greater than the torque being transmitted; if the bit dug in & you lost grip you had the bit & body rotating in the main drill chuck like an out of balance propellor, which continues to flail around for ages on round-down. Having said all that IF you only use it with small twist drills you should be able to easily control it.

Sorry, my tap is M18 course - 2.5mm pitch.

Think I have a Dormer 1st tap in the'shop ;will check to-morrow & post again.

Belt info;as used on our 2B+ -- Securon Pn 264 automatic rear seat belt,3 point mounting. The auto reel can be mounted in any position,you then set the fore & aft -- up & down dials so that the reel operates correctly. I mounted the reels in the space between outer panel & inside face of chassis (we have not fitted inner panels) on a 4mm S/Steel extension bracket which in turn is bolted to chassis plate carrying Ford suspension cross-tube. The top fixing is a shaped steelplate approx 120mm x 40mm with a 7/16" unf nut welded to back; make 12mm hole in vertical of roll-over tube at correct height, slide bracket up inside roll-tube (on end of plastic pipe) & secure in place with 7/16" set-screw. I drilled & tapped right through roll-tube & belt bracket above & below seat-belt mount (5 or 6mm) loosen set-screw to open out holes for clearance,re-assemble & fit belt mount. (File a small radius for good fit to roll-tube) I used the seat back belt fixings for ends of both belts. The only thing I wish was a little better would be to have a stalk mounted clip instead of the webbing one supplied. End of story,hope that helps.

Longboarders post is right on the money -- does any know & care to tell if all the weak props where made & sold before GBS took over? With-out an answer I think I may be removing my prop before it's turned a wheel 'cos most blokes would sense an abnormal vibration, but my wife --- probably not (no that's not a reason for her not driving it).

Sorry Iain, brain out of gear,forgot, will try to remember to do to-day Friday.

I wish my toy cupboard was that big!!

I've fitted 3 point inertia reel belts to our 2B+; if that's what you're after I'll look up the details & post them to-morrow.

Would be good to have some feed-back from Richard or Ian at GBS on this issue --- makes me wonder if I should start taking the car apart BEFORE it has even turned a wheel as it's very safety critical.

Put the Sierra body back on; it had a very low drag coefficient of 0.32 I believe.

Lateral thinking required here -- put your car on a trailer & sit in it when you reach the entance gates; needs some one to drive tow vehicle though!!

An earlier post said a prop-tube was made of too thin a guage of steel -- is there any easy way to check the prop that was supplied with my 2B+ kit back in 2007?

Has any -one had a postive reply from Den ?? if not go with the offer from Farmer Giles next door & hire in a portaloo @ around £60 a day only needs a couple of dozen campers to make it economic -- it's the only way to show the event organisers; otherwise all the comments on here become just so much hot air to them; if you stay away you both loose.

Is it necessary to remove the metal base from the tube or will a small hole be better?

It works in reverse on your radio -- station wanders off a little -- you retune -- it's fine -- until you take your hand away.

The biggest advantage of gas MIG is no flux (from the wire) to get entrained in the weld;which will happen especially if you need to build up a decent fillet,therefore the weld will (should) be stronger. I use Cougar 5 bottled gas from BOC instead of disposables, it gives a much better weld I think, but of coase limiting you to mild steel unless the bottle is changed to argon. All the above are amatuer opinions, a proper coded welder would prob. laugh at my welds, but they don't fall apart.

Always use tooth-paste to clean the screen of flys 7 bugs --- but it don't half make the brush go funny.

The speed of a mini grinder is likely to burn any polishing compounds used;rotary polishers are normally half that speed;but if you got good results it disproves that so I'll stop before the hole gets any deeper.

Sierra heater is around 4kw I believe; I cut half the fan off to reduce size & ducted air in other end from under floor level by gear-box -- note to self --avoid deep puddles.

Ford Fiesta Heater Control Valve -- Mk 4 --1995 to 2001 Part No.7N21-18495-AB Replaces 96FW18495-BD 98FU18495-AA 98FU18495-AB 98FU18495-AC cost is approx £31 ------- regards Bob.

All my inner tubes needed deburring & chamfering + I polished the rust spots off with fine emery tape; then they pressed in easily in the vice; problem is if they start crooked you're halfway to stuffed already; start the tube from the other end & take a lot of care with alinement. (Post where you are based there maybe someone close who could be willing to lend a hand)

What your builder did would have worked if he had WELDED the nipple on; do you have access to a MIG & the second part will be answered by your haynes manual.

And the gas axe for when you can't.

I'm lucky enough to have a cuddly assistant & a wife in one package!!!

Metric bolts & imperial nuts in mine & all rusty; follow previous posts & buy some more -- all at least 8.8 high tensile self colour.