fry61

Visualise your chassis made with Meccano-- & the bolts not quite tight--now all the stresses in welded corners are converted to movement about the Meccano "bolt" --if it can move a lot it can collapse or at least fracture around the heat-affected zone (weld) there-fore square or trapezium = bad; triangle = good so make triangles in any space-frame which has to withstand variable high loads. P.S the above probably explaines why I can't get my planes to fly--over engineered.

Will that make a difference Chris? Are not the switches electrically isolated from both + & -- until one or other are connected by wiring? It's the relays on the donor loom where the poz. or neg. prob would start & Dave aint got any of those (it's the salt air--plays havoc with your appendages)

My thanks to you,ACE, & all the other posters (posties??) I am grateful for all your work on the legal/rules side. We (me) only want to spend our time playing with our cars (& making sure they are fit for purpose) not dealing with the reams of paper generated by Brussels & London. Please continue the fight so we can continue playing, regards Bob.

When we were in business last; about 4 years ago; I seem to remember it was around £85 for a bottle of Smart Water which you could "paint on" your vunerable kit; any chance of more official info, Enforcer, may give us punters the tool to aid your anti-crime efforts-- don't forget the discount for RHOcar members!!

Think Andy means relays, Dave + fuses would be good, put in one for high & one for dip-- there's a FOR SALE on here for the switches you require.

Used a standard door switch with a thin bracket -switch could then be pushed past off without being broken- an auto brake fluid test + handbrake ON warning has got to be best-- especially for old forgetful fools like me.

Tis too late once your kits been nicked but for those of you worried about losing tools how about SMART WATER. It's full of micro-dots unique to you(I think) spray it over your kit, dries on & near impossble to remove - so stolen kit can be identified, check it out with your local crime prevention officer or may-be ENFORCER could give us an official view.

Thanks Jaff, I'll send the donkey a carrot--you know--long orange pointy thing--just don't stick it in his ear--makes him go round in circles--then you get no lectric-telegraphy-massages at all--stick it in his mouth--the hole with teeth--NOT the hole with tail over--that'll make im run up 'ere --rapid like

Thanks Jaffa, takes a while for news to reach those far-off places I suppose---was looking to return the copper to half-hard--as per "new" tube 'cause after cooking to braizing temp its very soft--you can almost leave finger-prints in it--I have tried to use older (2nd hand) stock where poss. as it's thicker wall--not the bend it & create a razor-blade stuff you get to-day.

Think laterally; it's not a heater 'tis an additional cooling rad for when the loud pedal is in jet-propelled mode or (warp-drive for our younger readers)

Is the councils attitude "swivel on this"

It's just another version of "The Peckam Spring" ----don't we all wish we could think of a way of selling water at 10 times the price!!!

There speaks a man? with a Fiat 500 worth 2 pence 1/2 'apenny!!

Sounds like another good wheeze-- like not reminding you when your SORN runs out until your well in the red. P.S. if you haven't got a valid licence have you still got valid insurance?

Try southpolemagnets on E bay they are very good on range & power.

Fortunately for me & my wife WORK is a distant memory; after a combined 90 years of it we retired 3 years,5 months & 8days ago

Thanks for all the replies; it is more than likely this old fool got his Farenhiet & Centigrade scales & memories of solder melt temps mixed---so don't rely on it as you age!! Florin Metal Works is a hobby name used by me & a mate-- also Bob =built by 2 Bobs AKA 2 shillings=Florin for those too young for pounds,shillings & pence. So my brazed copper joints are probably OTT but I still need to know if I should (or can) re-harden the copper.Earlier posts saying quench in water are wrong--copper is annealled when cooled rapidly & I don't know what frequency sound or engine vibration would cause the required "hardening" So more posts please; even the silly ones may help pass the evening. Regards Bob.

Hi all, I have made several parts of my cooling pipework from standard copper tube--I have brazed(welded) all joints with 93/7 copper/phosporous rods as ordinary solder goes pasty at 100'C + & silver solder is SO expensive. Question is due to very high heat required in jointing the resultant job is very soft even when allowed to cool normally in still air; now comes the Q.? if you're still awake--- how do I restore the copper to "normal" hardness---or don't you?

Awaiting your wisdom, regards Bob.

A magnetic stainless steel is high in ferrous & is therefore less stainless-- it is not called stainfree steel-- unfortunately!!!

With sheet metal-work is not a safe-edge acceptable? (Sheet folded back on itself to make double thickness & rounded) I thought SVA would permit this finish & not insist on a wired edge (which takes a lot more skill & time)

P.M. to MartinP if you still want one; very helpful guy with loads of Sierra bits---less 2 or 3 which I got,thanks again Martin.

It,s later this year so snow should be all gone----- to be replaced with-------wall to wall SUNSHINE

Picked up my 2" x 7/16" UNF bolts at Exeter for a £1

Went to the show on Saturday with several other club members, met up with 2 lovely fellow hoodies from Brum, good chat over lunch,bought loads of goodies ,great show but looks like Sunday was busier.

Thanks lads, that's enough to be going on with; should get me sorted O.K