ozz

Ozz,

You can always put extra universals in the steering column shaft and route it anty way you want. Just use the solid bearing mounts on the way.

 

Graham

I do have a UJ and splined shaft which I was going to use to replace the rubber disc joint to the steering rack which came with the sierra.

Does anyone know of any issues with re-using the rubber disc type joint. I don't want to spend loads of money solving this one!

Andrew

I've been having problems fitting the alternator so bought a small denso one and got that fitted with a smaller fan belt.

I then moved onto the steering column lower section and no matter what I did to rubbed on the alternator. If I pulled the triangular shaft right down I could get .5 mm clearance.

So I checked that the engine (pinto) was on the centre line and it is not. The center of the crank shaft pulley is about 2cm towards the drivers side, The casting line on the gear box is about 1cm off near the bell housing but the diff is spot on. I suspect the gear box mount may be off centre.

Its swings and roundabouts here because the 2 cm extra on the passenger side means my fuel injection will fit.

2 questions therefore arise.

1. Will my off centre engine affect the running of the car? - I hope that the prop shaft UJs will compensate for the angle.

2. It looks like I will need to have fabricated a new alternator mount to raise the alternator and bring it nearer to the engine. The original cast mount looks very strong (possibly over engineered) any advice on the design of a new mount would be very helpful. (I know a very kind welder).

Any advice or alternative solutions greatly appreciated.

Andrew

Halfords is your friend here. V belts are in a rack organised by length in mm but mixed in with multi-v belts to make it interesting. Adjust your alternator to lie as close to the block as possible. Use the old sierra belt, cut to loop round the pulleys and mark where it overlaps. Measure in mm. Go buy one closest to this length.

 

Nigel

Thanks Nigel

Top tip - done and fitted.

Cheers

Andrew

What alternator/belt combination is anyone else using to fit an altenator to the pinto engine in a zero?

I have a small denso alternator but the sierra belt is too long and the alternator hits the chasis bfore the belt is tensioned.

does anyone know of a smaller circumference belt which will fit?

any help appreciated

Thanks

Andrew

My steel sierra wheel were et42 which would have required a 27 mm spacer.

I also had some alloys ET35 and have fitted them with a 19 mm spacer from rally design.

I would have preferred the hubcentric type but they are quite pricey.

Hope this helps

Andrew

Should I have got these for the donor car or do I need to buy them and if so where.

I have included pictures so you know what Im taking about.

Thanks

I damaged mine getting it out of the sierra so picked one up from one of the shows from GBS they are on their web site here

http://www.kitpartsdirect.com/page2.htm

Hey, where are you based?

I'm in Newark, Nottinghamshire. The wheels are not far away in Grantham, Lincolnshire

I am advertising these wheels on behalf of a mate of mine who has 4 of these alloys still in the boxes and as new condition with centre caps.

They came with his kit but were never fitted to his 2B (which he no longer has).

He would like £120 for all 4.

I have the one in the picture and it looks to be in perfect condition and I am told the rest are the same.

The size is 6J x 14 ET 35

There are no tyres.

Andrew

Bob,

you have a PM

Andrew

Brilliant--or not--depends on potential difference--thanks to all--wheels may be very interesting--I await a further post,regards Bob.

Hi Bob,

the wheel in my garage is a 6J x 14 ET 35

so not the size you are looking for - sorry

Andrew

Thanks for your replies,Kevin & Chris, does the other side of lamp go to earth? do you (or anyone else) know of 51/2 J x 14 (or 15) alloy wheels? I've looked in loads of tyre & wheel sites but know luck,thanks again,Bob.

Looks like that might be a peugeot size

http://www.thepeugeotshop.co.uk/product/Ph..._X_14%22_9606YK

I have a mate with 4 2b alloys (no tyres) he tried to sell me. I have one in my garage I'll have a look tonight to see what size it is.

Andrew.

Since the only journeys of any length I make have one or other of my two daughters in the car (aged 2 and 12) Its either Green Day or Bob the Builder.

I go fastest when Bob is on.

wow let me say that is a great job and I want one too.

I sold my ST170 and went to a diesel puegeot to raise cash for the Zero and I really miss it.

I'm very interested as this is a fantastic engine in the focus and will be totally mad in a lightweight (or a zero).

What gear box have you used? - the focus had a six speed getrag which is a real leg crippler in traffic but the higher gears are sweet. With 5 on a type 9 I'm not sure what that will do for driveability on the road I still try to get 6th in the 1.4 pug diesel.

Also what have you done about the rev limiter It was so easy to hit it in all gears (well maybe not 6th) in the focus as this engine is so easy to rev.

The focus was limited to 128 mph I'm guessing this has gone

Hope I get to see it disappearing into the distance away from the zero sometime next year.

Keep up the good work guys (looks like you'll have some followers)

Andrew

thanks for both of the replies.

As the rotor lines up to a contact point now, I think I can get away without removing and refitting the dizzy and I will just use that contact as cylinder 1.

Much happier to have this confirmation thanks again.

Andrew

I am re-building my pinto EFI engine after stripping and fitting new gaskets.

I am now fitting a new timing belt and am having problems aligning the distributor.

Following the Haynes manual I have lined up the timing marks on the crank and camshaft. It then says to turn the auxiliary shaft so that the rotor arm points to the cylinder 1 firing position but when dismantling the distributor I failed to note the plug lead positions and so do not know which contact point relates to cylinder 1.

My distributor is a bosch electronic type but does not have a vacuum advance and is not shown in my Haynes manual.

There are no markings on the cap or distributor body apart from a yellow paint spot on the body.

If I line up the rotor arm to the yellow spot it contacts with a contact point on the distributor cap and the sensor points to a gap in the electronic points bit (sorry don't know the technical term).

If I assume that this is cylinder 1 and fit the plug leads in the correct firing order will this work?

If not how do I work out which contact relates to cylinder 1?

Thanks in advance

Andrew

Hi Joni

Sorry your strip did not go as well as mine.

When I lost my oil pick up pipe Richard at GBS sold me one out from one of the engines he had there, might be worth a call to see if he has any.

Andrew

Hi,

I've just done that very job.

The pulley on mine is for a two belt set up to drive the alternator and water pump therefore the pulley has a double v groove.

I set the puller on the outermost V and pulled against the pulley bolt undoing the bolt as the crank pulley came out.

The timing belt pulley behind the big pulley just pulled off by hand.

Cheers

Andrew

stripping my pinto at the moment no idea how it works yet but here is a photo.

Hi Tim,

You definitely get two long through bolts for the diff with the kit, I only had to re-use the two front bolts from the sierra.

The through bolts from the sierra were too short as the diff brackets are spaced to accommodate the larger ford diff (which I dont have) so spacers are required when fitting the smaller diff.

If you have lost the bolts that came with the kit have a word with Richard at GBS I'm sure he'd sort out some replacements for not a lot of cash.

Andrew

Welder now sold

Andrew, I think you will get very few bidders, I bought my auto-dark helmet on E-bay for £27 + £6p+p.

There are lots of cheap welding helmets, I looked at them and then decided that my eyesight was worth a little more.

The one I have for sale normally sells for £147 (and is on offer at the moment for £105) so at £70 it is a bit of a bargain.

To be honest if it dosn't sell I'll keep it.

I am selling my Clarke 151 TE welder and auto darkening helmet on ebay.

I'm also selling a haynes roadster flat pack chassis but I'm guessing if your reading this you won't need one of them either.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=320325134679

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=320325136676

Cheers for looking

Andrew

Hi,

I'm building a zero from the base kit and it comes with a nice new rack (escort I think) with extensions fitted so don't think you will need to bother with the sierra rack at all.

AFAIK you can specify a quick rack from GBS at extra cost when you order the kit.

Andrew

Its good advice to keep everything I'm still finding things to use (even fixed our toilet seat with the bar that held the jack to the sierra).

I built a mini shed from plywood to hold the bits until required.

These are what I have kept in addition to the GBS list

Lower steering column

Handbrake cable (will need shortening)

All Clips, self tapping screws, grommets, nuts and bolts.

Brake calipers (when you get new ones these are exchange parts and will save you £10 each subject to condition.)

Heater matrix and hoses

Brake master cylinder (Keep the ends of brake pipes labeled for reference if making your own new ones.)

Switches, bulbs

Seat belts (used one to hang the diff from an engine crane whilst fiddling it in - you'll see)

Expansion tank for radiator

Brake proportioning valve (I was advised not required but for the space it takes up I’ve kept it)

Pedal assembly (you don’t need it but someone else might)

Throttle, clutch and speedo cables

Boot carpet ( well padded and keeps your knees clean)

Washer system pipes - edge trim, brake pipe protection

Drain tubes from sunroof - handbrake cable and fuel line protection wiring conduit

Jack

Wheels – mine were 41 offset so no good on the front but just fit the rear as temporary measure.

Wheel nuts

Fuel pump, filter and engine management (mines injection) and engine loom even if not using the rest of sierra loom.

Indicator relay hiding behind the dash.

Steering wheel

Horns (IVA requirement)

Once stripped don't rest until you get the kit, get all parts cleaned, derusted and painted. I didn't and spent loads of time doing it with the kit sat in the garage.

If building in a single garage build some sort of trolley at a good working height to wheel the chassis in and out.

Find somewhere away from your garage to put your bonnet, nose cone cycle wings I'm sick of moving mine!

I'm sure I've missed stuff (and will end up buying it again).

Andrew

Hi,

I think if memory serves me well it's ET15 (Peugeot use this I'm told) I don't think your Sierra wheels will do.

Hope this helps.

 

Tony

 

Almost forgot 6.5 x 15 wheels with 195/50/15 tyres

Thanks Tony exactly the info I needed.