niduncan

Try 0092.

Here are mine.

I had the same problem with my VDO fuel guage and ended up fitting the VDO sender. The main problem with this was how to get the fuel out of the tank as the pickup was built into the sierra sender. My solution was to copy the sierra design, I modifed the VDO sender by fitting a pickup pipe through it. This works OK with no leaks and the fuel guage is now accurate.

I would say no. I run front discs and rear drums, with servo, and the front always lock before the rear. Not that I make a habit of locking the brakes of course!

I have a scanned in copy of the Exmo sales brochure dated early 1997. It is in Adobe Acrobat format and is about 4MB in size. I can e-mail it to you if your e-mail can cope with the size. Let me know.

I have a Snap-Off removable steering wheel adaptor fitted to my sierra column. It uses a hub adaptor specifically made for the sierra column which adapts to a M Range fitting. I decided to keep the original Mountney 11 inch wheel and had an aluminium adapter ring made (the engineering lads at work will do anything for a slab of beer) to fit between the wheel and the removable part of the Snap-Off kit. The Snap-Off kit is lockable so it can't be pinched if left on the car and the fitting is unique, no two Snap-Off kits are the same. The kit even comes with a horn push. To remove the wheel you insert the key and turn then pull two levers and the wheel is released. To re-fit you line it up, pull the levers, push and it locks into place. Makes life much easier getting in and out of the car (I am 6ft3in) and is a great security device as well. If you need and further info or pictures let me know.

I tried running mine without a servo for a while. I made an adjustable pushrod out of a piece of threaded bar and a few nuts, this worked well but I found that the brakes were to heavy and eventually went back to using a servo.

I managed to get my car on the road prior to the start of SVA, all it needed was an MOT and a quick inspection at the local VLO. I did manage it in less than 4 months but I spent just about every evening and weekend working on it, I also had a great deal of help from the wife who was very eager to do her bit. It makes a big difference having the other half on side. The kit itself was by no means an easy bolt together job, a lot of engineering was require to get things to fit and line up correctly. I think that you get what you pay for, you do get a very comprehensive kit but quality was lacking. I have never regreted buying a Hood and it has given enormous pleasure over the past 8 years.

My Series III made an appearance in February 2001.

When I used the sierra sender I used the rubbber seal from a used sierra oil filter. Carefully cut out a section then super glue the ends back together to give the correct diameter. Never had any problems with leaks.

Hi Paul, I ran my Series III for several years on 185/60 14 which gave a sump clearance of 3 inches. I grounded the sump several times but luckily it has survived. Last year I bought a new set of alloys and the largest combination of wheel and tyre I could get into the wheel arches were 195/65 15. These gave me an extra 1.5 inches of ground clearance, a total of 4.5 inches, I have not grounded the sump since. I will get around to shortening the sump one day as well. p.s. the cd is nearly ready to send.

That's the beauty of building a hood, no two are the same. How have you finished that area on yours Mick?

This is the passenger side of my series 3, the panel is covered in carpet. Should be the same for your 3A.

I suspect they are the panels that cover the rear suspension arm where it connects to the rear axle crossmember. This joint protrudes into the car behind the seats.

Cheers Guy, the shaft runs smoothly so the bearing looks OK.

Does anybody know how much sideways play is accepable on the inputshaft. I have just aquired a gearbox that has supposedly done 88,000 miles and the shaft feels quite sloppy. Does this matter as the end of the input shaft, when fitted to the engine, is supported by the crankshaft spigot bearing.

No problem, I have a VDO electronic speedo which I can easily re-calibrate by driving a measured mile.

Thank's for the offer but I have managed to source a good 3.92 It will be interesting to see how differently the car performes compared to the 3.38 Thank's again.

Thank's for the info. Yes, the acceleration is somewhat lacking but as that is the only diff I have ever had fitted I have nothing to compare it to. Guess it is time to try a 3.92, anybody out there got one laying around that needs a new home?

Hi Jon, I have a VDO speedo fitted but I use a sensor that fits on the end of the speedo cable. The sensor and clocks were bought from Lowtension, the sensor is made by Hunter and the type number is 67HC. Decided to go this route as you don't have to mess around with magnets on the prop shaft. There was no difference in price either. When I fitted the VDO clocks I had 185/60 14 wheels and the speedo pulse count for 1 mile was 4240. I later changed wheels to 195/65 15 and the pulse count went down to 3810. The easiest way to set this up is by driving a measured mile and use the "Autocl" function.

Salty, What ratio diff are you comparing the 3.92 to? I have a 3.38 diff fitted which came off the original donor, a 2.0l Ghia which was a German import. I have been considering replaceing this as it whines quite loudly. The problem is what ratio to fit? I would like to improve acceleration but I use the car for work during the summer which is a round trip of 96 miles, so economy is also important. At present I get 35 to the gallon, by fitting a 3.62 or 3.92 what will that do to the economy? Any thoughts chaps?

No 2: Where do you keep your spare spark plug?

I have gone through a couple of cables due to heat from the exhaust manifold. My latest cable is from a Sierra 2.0i Cosworth (Exc 4x4) (1985-93) Part No: QCC1585. Both ends are the same as a standard cable and it has an overall length of 72 inches. This means it goes over the top, down the front then back under the alternator. Well away from the exhaust manifold. It cost £10.49 from my local auto parts shop.

With wet weather gear on.

The wet weather gear still fitted without any adjustment. The doors had to be raised by moving the hinges further up the supports as there were gaps between the top of the doors and the hood. The wipers park OK (as in the photo), I am using a Mini mechanism with Mini wiper arms and cut down blades. By bending the arms I have managed to get the sweep correct . Nigel.