Jamiep

After fitting the roof and doors I've realised the need to cut the water supply to the heater matrix, I think I lost about 2 stone driving home from work My question is: which of the 2 hoses is the feed to the matrix, the one to the front of the engine or the one to the inlet manifold? Also, its just occurred to me whilst typing this, Should I have some sort of bypass in there to maintain the flow through the engine? your help is much appreciated. Regards.

I know mines an Exmo and never had to pass these tests when built and registered back in early 90's but my belts attach to the roll bar support bolts at the back of the car. I think these would stiffen up well if some heavy guage angle was run along the back edge and down the sides with fillets in the corners. you could possibly pick up the rear subframe mounting points too. not sure if its heigh enough though.

try kit parts direct/ GBS http://www.kitpartsdirect.com If you give them a ring they may have some knocking about.

Just read Kit-car mag and it says robin hood owners club are helping to organise this? have I missed some posts. I fancy going to this and have booked kids in with babysitters (mum & dad ) for the Saturday. Is there any more info on this, I presume we have a stand, how much do I need to pay for 1 car and 2 people? (sorry getting excited cos I've fitted the roof so can go further without fuzzing up the wifes hair )

I've eventually decided to fit mine to the scuttle, hard up against the bonnet. I used lots of masking tape to stick them in verious places but couldn't get the angle on the mirrors to see behind me. The mirrors I've used are off a Suzuki GSXR600 04/05 plate, I got them from spares unlimited, new for £30 a pair. Their shop is in Hull but they have an Ebay shop aswell. I can not get a full swing on the doors anymore though so they won't stay open, but after a couple of attempts I can clamber in and out ok. not sure if you will be able to make it out but the passenger side mirror base is not inline with the bonnet so as to give the angle required to line up the mirror, felt abit odd fitting it non-symetrical but it looks ok. p.s. the roof looks out of line in this shot but its due to the front bar not being pulled tight.

After what seems like weeks of searching and one unreplied request for info I eventually just bit the bullet and fitted the wet weather gear my own way with what I feel is good results. There is one slight problem I never thought about the mirrors. Where have people with hood/doors fitted theirs? I know about bike mirrors and have picked some up off a GSXR600 which look smart (cheap too) but can't find anywhere to fit them and still open the doors. Thought about fitting them to the door just below the hinges but can't get the range of movement in the mirror to be able to see behind me. see pic below for problem.

you'll surley make that back by selling bits you dont want so it is infact a free engine. go for it!

What is thats actually stopping the doors opening? if its the pin being too tight in the second part of the hinge get some emery cloth and give the pins a polish, if their real tight run a drill down the hole. if like mine the 2 halfs of the hinge catch when put together use a washer over the pin before fitting the door. this seems to work on mine although only a dry run as mine are not fitted to the car yet. I suspect the hinges are not in line though if the door wont budge without bending, might just need moving.

Hi, just received my wet weather gear from GBS, very impressed as I ordered it late friday. The hood and doors look to be very good quality but........ The aluminium bars are shocking! scuffed and dinted and way too big. Going to take them to a fab shop where I used to work to see if we can re-bend are re-make. The part I'm not sure about is the windscreen edge fitting, when I pull the front edge over the screen I can lightly clamp the outer corners and it looks like it would create quite a good seal with the padded piping inside, but I'm no sure once the fasteners are in it will be as close. I've done some searching and found good info on the awning but could do with some close up pics of how the leading edge of the roof looks (not the screen/ channel) other cars. I presume you have to slide the edge along the channel starting at one end or can you just snap it in? If I don't go with the awning method which lift-the-dot fasteners do you use as that appears to be the brand name rather then the specific items.(I dont like the idea of press studs comming undone at 70!) Thanks in advance. Jamie.

I used to have one called snap-off for one of my cars, the boss was spacific to the make/model spline of the steering column and then the adaptor which came off was specific to the brand of wheel i.e. Momo etc. It was very simple to use and even had horn connections but it made the wheel stick out about an inch from memorey. I believe they are still available I got mine from a shop called larkspeed which used to be in Hull. Its going back around 8yrs or so but I'm sure it was quite abit more then £35 just found the site: http://www.snap-off.com/

thanks I'll investigate whats there.

My temp guage isnt working at all and after reading this checked and found that my sender isn't connected to anything. There are a few single wires with what appear to be manufacturer female connectors nearby but they are all taped to the loom. What colour wire should be connected? (mines a 2ltr pinto)

My first time Very good read, well worth the membership. keep up the good work.

The guage on my Exmo is very erratic if I fill the tank the guage plumets to empty and only displays when it gets to 3/4 in the tank, then reads 50% untill about 1/4 tank left when it drops and settles at 1/4 reading, I then refuelled and put in just under 15 litres so I presume it reads 1/4 correct for a 20 litre tank? The car had been sat for approx 3 years before I bought it so just thought something has been sticking, now it sounds normal

This can be achieved quite easily with mil light eliminator (basically a couple of resistors and a capacitor form memory) available from somewhere like Janspeed or PTP, its simply soldered into the post cat sensor cables to trick the ecu into thinking the sensor range is back to normal. As for the engine to gearbox adaptor, I'm guessing this isn't something that can be bought off the self but should be able to get one machined. Having not taken the engine out (or even looked at that mount) i presume I would need a ring with countersunk holes to match the PCD of the threaded holes in the engine block and studs welded in to match the hole PCD of a V6 ford gearbox?

As above really, I happen to have an MGZS 180 taking up room on my drive and getting past it in the kit can be a pain. I’ve had no interest trying to sell it in the paper so I put 2 and 2 together and thought Hmm would that V6 fit in my Exmo? I have spent alot of time in and around heavily modified MG's and a popular swap for the ZR lot was either the old T series turbo from a coupe or a 600 or the new V6 from the ZS, I know the Exmo will take a K series so will it take the V6? what else would I need? Is the Exmo strong enough for this sort of engine? answers or ideas welcome. ps I'm on a budget!

First off, I have to say what a stunning set of cars you all have. It was our first time at a kit car show and I wasn’t sure what to expect but the standard was high. Thanks to a friendly family who phoned the car owner about his seats (apparently from an MR2 with belt holes added) sorry I didn't catch any names. Really wish I'd brought my Exmo but was worried about long drive back to Hull from Silverstone on the Sunday, as it turned out it took us 3 hrs to get out of the field before the 3hr drive even started anyway, Saturday was top notch, a little overcast but we still got burnt lol. I could of a fortune on bits and bobs, seats and roof but luckily I had no room in the boot. I will defiantly be there next year!

Cool, I'm not alone! We'll have to organize a meet up in the next couple of weeks, it'll probably have to be an evening due to family/work/F1GP etc.

Hello, I keep seeing an Orange Robin Hood (I think) in and around Hull, never get a good look at it as I always seem to be going in the opposite direction and I've always been in the tin top. Just wondered if its anybody from here, we could maybe have a mini meet as I've not seen any other hood in the flesh. Anyway, hope to meet some of you at Newark, will be in the tin top as we are travelling on to the F1GP on Sunday and I don't have any wet weather gear other then a coat! Jay.

I just recently bought a 440Amp battery from halfords (expensive) but works and fits the ref No. is HCB063, mine fires first time now. Also used same type in my heavily modified MGZR and it never faild me.

I had similar problem on mine, would not idle well or cut out whilst slowing down. Friend of mine spotted this: There had been a rubber cap there last time we looked and it was sucking air in making the engine run lean, blocked it off again and the car now idles fine and nolonger cuts out.

Thanks for the replys, I'll check out the different lights suggested and I think I have the struts sorted after hitting a few dead ends, I'll know more later this week.

only ever welded st/st with TIG but always used 316 rods and pure Argon, never had any trouble welding 316 to 304 but never realy got past apprentice stage.

Hi I'm from Hull, just trying to get an Exmo on the road after a 3 year layup. (also about to join up)

I'm afraid if its been on a while and suject to heat its a real pain to get off, just pick at it with a flexible plastic spatular then clean with 3m stainless cleaner to get the glue off (this is slightly abrasive so be careful of getting swirls on mirror finished panels)