Shaft

Hi Daz, Not too bad i suppose on the grand scale of things. I got the calipers, grooved & drilled discs, high spec pads and fitting kit for £340. That included VAT and P&P. Ordered them online from Rally Design. Cheers, Nick

Hi all, Many thanks for all the kind comments regarding my build pics from so many of you. It means a great deal, more so, coming from more experienced builders than myself. Anyway, after a few PM's asking if i'm doing a blog off my build (No, i haven't the time or know-how) and a surprising amount of interest in my previous pics, i've uploaded another album of my latest achievements in the build of my Zero. I have added comments to each picture to explain what or why i'm doing something in the way pictured as i thought this may be of help. Hopefully someone will find these of assistance, and if so, it makes it a worthwhile little project for me to keep adding pics/comments as i go. Once again, your comments are more than welcome, especially if you spot errors /mistakes or a complete bleep-up anywhere. http://s575.photobucket.com/albums/ss195/s...cs%20part%20II/ Best regards to all, Nick.

Hi Marcus, I did mine as per some pics from GBS, BUT, i'm 99% certain they are wrong. So much so, i've swapped mine to what i believe to be correct, that being wheel cylinders facing forward. I studied the haynes manual (Sierra) and they have the cylinder at 11 o'clock and the handbrake cable coming in from the front side. So if you rotate them by 90 degrees, bearing in mind they have to line up with the carrier GBS supply, the cylinders end up facing forward. The only critical point is that the leading / trailing shoes are correct as per Fords design against wheel rotation. Like i said, i've set mine like this as i believe i'm correct and GBS pics are wrong. Yes, you could rotate the hubs from standard position as per Sierra 90 deg anti-clockwise which would put the cylinders at the rear, but the carriers won't allow this. (on mine anyway??? perhaps the carriers are drilled off randomly when made???) Regards, Nick.

Hi all, Just had a thought as i read my own post above............ My opinion on how they go is assuming that GBS drill all the hub carrier's the same way round when they manufacture them?? Your thoughts?? Nick.

Hi Jon, I think yours will be slightly to the left same as the Sierra due to being a 2B model. The Zero is different and the back plate sits 90deg rotated from standard. To ensure the leading / trailing shoes are correct,the cylinders are forward. This is forced due to how the hole pattern being assymetric in the hub carriers manufactured by GBS to match the Sierra hub housing and obviously, the carriers can only go one way. I'll put a picture up as soon as i've turned mine around!! (It's my job of the day whilst the paint on the front hubs dry's). Yep, i did mine wrong as well, , thats why i'm confident in what i'm saying........ measure once, cut twice as they say. Nick

Hi all. 8.8 is the tensile marking on metric bolts only. Imperial sizes, i.e.. unf / unc use 3 lines or 6 lines. The seat belt bolts are an international standard fit. they are 7/16 x 20tpi. Spanner size is 11/16. 17mm is smaller, it won't fit! HTH, Nick.

Hi, The brake back plate will only fit the rear hub carrier one way as the mounting holes are assymetric about the centre line. So, line up the back plate with it's carrier and the wheel cylinders need to be forwards. This will ensure the leading shoe is doing it's job. HTH, Nick.

Oh dear, :-( What i want to know is...... Who made the rule, that, she who owns the lady bits makes the rules?? And while we're on the subject..... When we all said ”i do”, what we meant was ”ok, i won't”. Nick. P.s.... if anyone see's the wife, i didn't write the above. lol.

what a bleeping bleep bleep!!! I made 5 in 10 mins tops on a lathe. Jee's some people want shooting! on a helpfull note, mine where 17mm thick on the o/s and 15mm on the n/s. 22mm on the rear. centralise your diff and measure each side...... you never know. lol. Nick.

Just had to SHOUT this on here, slightly happy, does it show? My nearest and dearest as got me an ETB DD2 Digi Dash for my birthday!! I'll do the dishwasher duties all year for that one. Nick.

Hi, Just a quick reply to agree with the others. My air riveter is a god send, and i'd be lost with out my airgun and air ratchet. Regards, Nick.

Hi Kev, Firstly, welcome to the world of kit cars. I'm new to these beasties also and have found this forum to be one of the most helpful, informative and friendly ones i've ever been on. I became a full member of RHOCaR because of this fact and haven't looked back. So, that said, yes, i believe a Zero is a good a starting point into the world of kitcars. On a slightly negative note perhaps, but it's not meant to be, i think your budget of 4.5K is a bit conservative. I'm not saying it's impossible to do it for that, but i'd hate to think you would end up building a car you weren't happy with or regretted half way through your build. If you are on a budget, avoid the Zetec for for the time being (my opinion only) as it will be cheaper to use the Pinto from your donor Sierra. HTH and good luck with your decisions. Nick

Hi, welcome aboard the good ship crazy. I'm about 3 weeks into my Zero build, and i'm finding it simple but involved. See my post about build pics in 'kit car related' to see where i'm at. Should give you an idea of the rough way to start it, as did other peoples pics when i began. I live about 10 mins from M1 J26, so not too far from you. Kettles on if your ever up this way and fancy a look-see. Regards, Nick.

Hi Larry, I wonder why you like that pic then??? PMSL. Ian at GBS said they where looking at a wide bodied Zero when i was there mid Dec 09'. They want to run it along side this variant i believe??. Didn't give me a timescale, but he sounded pretty optimistic about it happening.......... time will tell i suppose. mmmmmhhhhhhh............. Zero V8!! be nice to have 330bhp again!! i love my V8's LOL. Nick.

Hi, A quick shift gives off all sorts of fancy idea's eh?? lol. Quite simply, it's a shorter length gearstick which is supplied with a spherical housing to support the pivot point. It becomes a 'Quick Shift' simply due to your hand/arm having to travel a shorter distance, hence....... 'Quicker'. They fit into the box as per original. Save money and make your own by shortening your exhisting stick and fit a nice knob on the end. In my opinion, you only get the fancy housing etc to warrant the exorbitant price they sell for. If you haven't a welder, it would cost peanuts for someone to weld it back together again for you. HTH, Nick.

Hi Larry, I've had one made, and it's very, very nice. i paid £257 including service and re-jetting the carbs. Excellent service also. i can put some pics up later if you want. Nick.

thanks photowarehouse, nice comments always lead to a feel good factor. Looking at your blog, its nice to know i'm not on my own when it comes to eager too help kids!! Engine looks pretty damn fine i must say. Nick.

Hi Dinger, I used a zinc plated M8 bolt, (100mm long) cut the head of and ground a dome shaped head on it so as to ensure a self centering fit into the 'cup' of the piston in the master cylinder. (see my pics in another post link) You will need to make a pedal back stop also, as, if you pull the pedal, the pushrod can drop out the master cylinder. I don't need to explain the dangers in that! lol. Not made mine yet, but i will update my pics when i have. The stuff you linked too is ok, but message the guy about the pressure switch to ensure it's an M10 x 1.5mm thread. Could be UNF or BSPT, it's impossible to tell from the pic alone. Clevis is spot on, as is the 4way. Cheers, Nck.

Hi, i'm merely repeating what i've been told, but as far as i'm aware, the best way is to use the invoice number from GBS for your kit to start then make it up to 17 characters using numbers or letters of your choice. You can have a riveted on plate, BUT, there has to be a stamped on copy of this number, or, if chassis tube deformation is a worry from stamping it's acceptable to stamp a steel plate and WELD this on. If i'm wrong, i apologise, but someone will put us straight if i am. HTH, Nick

Yep, thats the kiddie Try Ebay or GBS or other though mate. £10 +VAT + P&P = Ouch. HTH, Nick

Hi Dave, you want a 4 way one, thread is M10 Dia x 1mm pitch. I gave £7.50 for one at GBS ( i was there at the time) HTH, Nick.

Thanks Tim, really nice comment mate. Kettles on anytime your passing, your welcome round for a nosey / gossip / brew when ever. Nick.

Chelboy, I went for the Plus kit. Chose this as it would cost more than the difference from the base kit to achieve the same amount of parts. I'd like to think this time next year i'm ready for IVA, as i said earlier, i'm in no rush. I enjoy the build as much as anything. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mark, Yes, i ordered the kit pre powder coated, it was done by a subby, not GBS. £245 extra, money well spent in my book as all the welds are flattened also prior to coating and it's far more resilient than paint. I'm well impressed with the finish, all the nooks and crannies are well coated, no patchy areas anywhere. Luckily i have plenty of space, so i'm doing donor refurbs as i need them in the build. Good luck with your builds, Nick.

Hi Darren, Thanks mate, means a lot. I picked my kit up 11th Dec 2009. I'd guess i've put in approx 70 hrs so far. Some would perhaps say thats slow, but i'm a sod for detail and precision. Some would perhaps say thats fast, but i'm not racing toward any set date. Donor wise, buy a complete car mate. I bought one, stripped the ENTIRE car COMPLETELY, and sold off everything surplus. Ended up in profit from my purchase price, and had all my parts for free. Nick.

Hi Andy, The bolts you'll get with the kit are for fitting the wishbones to chassis, the diff to the chassis, the shocks to the chassis and loadsof 1/8th" rivets. All bolts come in a bag, yes mate. A really big one, all mixed up nicely like a tin of sweeties. lol. Instructions consist of a series of random photo's and a with regard to a manual...... No. lol. I've got a link posted to some pics of my build, as have other people. Have a look and feel free to ask questions. Remember, if your not sure ask.........and also, there's always more than one way to skin a cat. HTH, Nick