Jump to content

IanS

RHOCaR Member
  • Posts

    1,113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    64

Posts posted by IanS

  1. Drilling stainless

    Rule 1 do not let the stainless get hot as it goes very hard.

    Center punch to locate the hole.

    Cobalt drill bit at low speed with some pressure and low speed. https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=cobalt+drill+bits+for+metal

    Be careful of the swarf as it is normally very sharp.

    As for sewing the sewing needs to be waterproof sealed for most materials. There are tapes for this that go on the inside.

     

  2. I had a couple of old style minis with A series engines that did not have a separate expansion tank. There was a level indicator in the radiator giving the level to fill to when cold. Never had a problem of overheating. The top tank was the expansion tank. I run my car a similar way and since I sorted out the fan have only had an overheating problem when the fuse blew😒. I had put in a fuse that only just allowed the fan to work next size up sorted.

  3. My thoughts are to do with over heating.

    WOT equals going at some speed and having good airflow through the radiator.

    Pootling about you rely on the fan being effective and this is where I would look first.

    I would also check that the water pump is working and has not half failed again engine speed could cover up a partially disintegrated impeller.

     

  4. Stopping like this is either ignition or fuel.

    When it stops remove a spark plug as soon as possible, if it is wet or smells of petrol the problem is ignition. Probably a case of substitution to find the fault.

    If it stops clean then most probably not choke stuck on.

    Be prepared next time it stops and remove the petrol pipe to the carb. and immediately crank the engine if petrol spurts out it is not pump related. I had the mechanical pump stick when warm due to the follower sticking stopping fuel flow. To crank the engine single handed I had a cable crock clip to the started solonoid and touched the other end to the battery positive.

    Just some ideas that I would do.

    Ian

  5. The Exmo front suspension was always Sierra track control arms, sierra ARB and sierra steering rack with sierra uprights. It used custom struts of unknown origin with Robin Hood adjustable spring seats.

    At the back there was the option of standard sierra rear springs and shock OR an adjustable RM adapted mini rear shock modified to coil over.

  6.  

    Alternator light on no charge = dead alternator most probably brushes and slip rings oxidized due to long lay up.

    If made with cut down sierra dash (instruments showing in dash between seats) then also oxidization of multi plug a possibility. Try squirting switch cleaner over contacts whilst connecting and disconnecting plug several times.

    Fuel tank is across back of car. Filler is on right side into top and sender is on left hand side also on top. To get at drop tank. Be careful removing sender as resealing can be hard. Filler is cut down sierra into standard sierra rubber gasket/sealing ring.

     

    Where are you?

  7. Vacuum advance is mostly an economy system.

    At full power it does nothing as there is no vacuum in the inlet manifold with the throttle fully open.

    As you close the throttle inlet vacuum increases and the fuel/air charge entering the cylinder reduces. This reduces the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the compression stroke. The flame front of the burning fuel/air moves faster with high pressure and slower with low pressure so ignition advance curves attempt to get full burn happening at or soon after TDC to extract maximum power. If full burn comes later then engine efficiency falls.

×
×
  • Create New...