IanS
RHOCaR Member
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Posts posted by IanS
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I hope that they had Pluvius insurance.
This pays for loss of income due to rain.
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This is normal. Belt finds its own position on the toothed wheels.
There are 2 guide washers to prevent it falling off. 1 behind the top wheel as shown in your bottom picture and one in front of the crankshaft wheel. Between the 2 washers the belf cannot fall off. It is normal to lightly touch one or the other.
In the top picture there is braided cable / hose that looks very close to the belt.
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It is possible to remove the engine and gearbox together.
The nose cone and radiator will have to be removed to do this.
After disconnecting gear lever, speedo drive, reverse light switch electrical connection, clutch cable disconnected and gear box rear mounting the gear box is free.
The engine needs all electical connections disconnected, fuel pipes removed, exhause manifold removed and heater pipes removed.
The engine mounts can then be unbolted and with the engine suspended from a suitable crane/hoist it can be lifted clear of the mounts and pulled forward to release the prop shaft, it will result in a bang as the prop shaft drops, tilting the gearbox down it is possible to move the assembly forward and up.
This will most probably result in a large loss of oil out of the rear of the gearbox.
Otherwise the engine and gearbox can be split in the car by supporting the bell housing on a jack and pulling the engine forward to disenguage the gearbox input shaft befor lifting the engine out on its own.
The gearbox can then be removed level without spilling oil.
Refitting the gearbox I have disconnected the porpshaft and pulled it forward in the transmission tunnel far enough to easily push the shaft into the gear box before pushing the gearbox back onto its rear mounting and supporting the bell housing at a height to allow the engine to be wiggled onto the input shaft and the bell housing bolted back up.
Then reconnect everything.
Good look.
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If you are still running the sierra springs then a lot of builders had this problem and simply inserted a square of inch thick ply between the top of the spring and the bottom of the tub.
This could make the suspension too firm at the back.
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It has been done many times.
How depends if you want the wings to turn with the wheels or just be fixed straight ahead.
I do not recall any one doing what I would call a good job of stearing ones. Others may differ.
Some cropping of the suspension tops and judicious cuts to the fiberglass have given a reasonable result to fixed straight ahead wings. This should pass MOT as most production cars have parts of thier wheels out in the open at full lock.
Sorry no pictures.
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Are the valve clearances correct?
As valves heat up the get longer and if clearance is tight they do not close fully. All sort of strange things occour.
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Auto choke stuck on??
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I will be driving down Saturday morning prepared to stay over.
I know of more folk coming.
See you there.
Ian
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I got my camping pass through the post and it gives from midday friday 2nd to 6pm sunday 4th.
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1968 sierra ?????????????????????????????????????????
This is a extreeeeeemmly rare car.
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I agree and have always set the cam by measuring movement of number 1 inlet valve.
The pinto has unusual cam to valve geometery as the followers rock on pillers set to the side resulting in changing timeing when lift is changed. This is a complex situation but the cma manufactured will have known about.
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Being a 4 stroke engine the inlet valve will be both fully open and fully closed at 108deg depending on it being the inlet stroke or the power stroke.
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I know it is teaching gran to suck eggs.
Have you set the cam to follower gaps?
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If you have 21W normal oldfashoned bulbs then the nominal currant is just under 2 amps with an inrush of 4 to 6 amps (cold filamant high current, as filament heats to near white heat current drops as resistance rises). 50% duty cycle so any wire 1 to 5 sq mm.
LED bulbs have lower current and inrush is not a problem and the above wire is overkill but robust and easily available.
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Wire metal backing plate to main chassis.
The connection needs to be from the mounting screw / bolt to any (nearest) part of the chassis.
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I would add that tyre pressure is low in these light cars.
I run 18psi and most run in the range of 18 to 20 psi.
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The mounting screws provide the second connection direct to the body so they have a live wire and the return to "earth" is through the screws.
As it looks like you are mounting to fiberglass you will have provide the second wire to the mounting screws.
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Looking at the pictures it is a series 3 or 3A with the kit from about about 1997/8.
The last of the monocoque cars followed by the 2B (tubey)
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Sorry I am unable to help with seats, mine are home made for me only.
Seats depend a bit on which robin hood you have.
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I fitted a belt one size down. It is a very tight fit. I unbolted the pulley from the water pump to fit the belt then bolted the pulley back.
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Assuming that a standard webber DGAV carb fitted then this is what is fitted to mine.
Oil filter is just a standard 1983 Sierra 2l fitment available at any motor factors.
Pintos like 20W50 oil, modern light oils do not always work.
Gaskets go to motor factor or ebay.
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The rules on keeping the donor registration haave changed over the years.
Pre SVA (now IVA) it was possible to keep the donor registration if sufficient parts from the donor were used, otherwise a Q plate was issued.
SVA started in 1998 so early Beauford kits would potentially have been able to keep the donor registration. 702 BUA could be one such car. Of course it also might not be correctly registered, Check that the V5 shows Beauford as the manfacturer.
The other car of the surface is newer and could have been given a new age related registration when it was SVA/IVA tested.
If you are getting a Beauford as a wedding car then that is comercial use and it must not be registered as VHI.
I hope that this helps
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If the oil is going to drain back it is interesting that there is a sight tube fitted.
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Happenes time and time again.
1 Design of caliper for right and left, put bleed in the higher port and the feed pipe on the lower. Both ports the same for one part number on the caliper.
Been nearly caught out that way more than once refitting calipers. You live and learn.
Nice to hear from a member in the States I worked in Seattle for a year about 10 years ago, fun time for me, enjoy your car.
Cooling System Diagram
in Maintenance & Modifications
Posted
Sorry but that is a confusing diagram.
Thermostat in radiator return line, I have never seen that and wonder how it can work.
The thermostat is normally closed and opens as it warms. It is always near engine in the line taking coolant from the engine to the radiator so as to sense when the engine reaches operating temp.