IanS

Temp guage high and fuel guage low are out electrically in opposite directions so a voltage regulator would struggle to help.

Most tachos are fairly insensitive to voltage. A good check is at MOT time when emissions are being checked the tester will have a good tacho built in, just ask and the tester will normally compare readings.

Ian

The very first question should be what voltage is your system regulated to? A meter from the Guage live (positive wire) should average 8 to 10 volts. If a modern reg is fitted there will be a steady voltage, if an old reg is fitted then the voltage will switch from 12+ volts to 0 volts every 1 to 5 seconds.

The symptoms suggest that no voltage reg is fitted in which case the guage will always read high.

You can fit the old lucas bimetal instrument reg or you can fit a modern electronic one.

If you fit the modern one you will probably have to do some assembly work as mostly they are integral with the instrument cluster.

Ian

P.S I too have a ford sender and a Dolomite guage and they work properly together with an old lucas instrument reg.

To add to Jims reply.

The very first Robin Hoods 7 type car was Triumph based. This could be dolomite or TR7 for the mechanicals. These started as spaceframe cars.

Then came the Cortina based cars with the reversed front subframe and monocoque construction which evolved into the single donor sierra based S7.

This does not include the various cars that were only ever shown in prototye form like the Little John for the larger driver and the GO that used the sierra rear screen as a heated front screen.

I am certain that I have missed out many more.

Ian

The voltage from the coil is normally 0Volts.

As the 4 pointed star thing approches the pickup the voltage will move one way(depending on which way round the wires are connected) the volts goes back through 0 as the pickup lines up and then goes the otherway before returning to zero.

The whole 0,+,0,-,0 wave takes about 12 to 15 degrees of crank movement.

The trigger threshold is on the positive going part of the cycle so if the wave goes + first the timing happens early. If the wave goes - first the timing is late.

Ian

These wires to the pickup will work either way round.

BUT

swappping them moves the spark timing about 7 degrees.

Ian

When cutting carbon fiber always use a good breathing mask and a vacume used only for CF.

I am working with airbus who use CF and they treat the dust as carcinogenic.

In the end you could mould your own to suit, if you are not realy bothered by weight you can lay it up similar to fiberglass. The resin used is epoxy as its thermal expansion coeficient is similar to the carbon fibers.

I beieve that small quantiies are available from a firm in Southport that advertises in most kitcar mags.

The finish will be as good as the mold that you use.

Have fun

ian

Wheelnut yes I only tried to expand a bit on what you said.

Replying to Wheelnut.

The breakdown voltage of a spark plug is proportional to the plug gap. Double the gap double the volts required. All other things being the same.

The breakdown volts are inversly proportional to the presure in the cylinder at the time, in other words close the throttle and get a low manifold presure and you require not many volts, Floor it giving atmospheric presure in the manifold and a high presure at the spark and you need lots of volts to make a spark.

On looser fitting engines (read worn rings or valve stem seals) and the low presure sucks oil into the cylinder, This coats the plug and often stops the spark.

Ian

Earths.

Run a wire direct from the tacho -VE (often the body) to the engine and see if this helps.

Check that the engine to batery to body earth is large enough.

Check that the ignition module earths are good.

Ian

The only way I can think of to get an valuation is to ask one of the kit car dealers that advertise in the mags. But I would expect a low valuation from them as this is the price they buy in at.

Other way is to list asking prices (it would be interesting to know the final sale price) of similar cars for sale in the mags but will this be aceptable?

My experiance of agreed value is that come a write off the insurance started negotiations at 1/3rd the agreed value and took 14 months to come to a final value that was still short of the agreed value. This was on a modified range rover and they listed all sorts of short comeings to escape the agreed value most of these were very minor or almost non existant or indeed some had been declaired in the proposal.

If you dont have an agreed value based on my experiance you are no worse off.

The next meeting is this wednesday 7th April.

7:30 onwards

At thge George and Dragon pub on the A34 Stone.

I hope to see you there

Ian

The first video was for the batch2 EXMO.

Exmos were produced in 3 batches from 96 to 97.

The series 3 launched after the Exmo (therefore it has a video) and the series 2 launched before the Exmo and therefore does not have a video.

Ian

Buy a kit??

I thought that this was the backdoor mechanics and general twichers club.

We bodge things ourselves (with a little help)

See:- http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/

Then its all hands to mass production.

Ian

Correct reading?

The voltage should be 12 to 13 volts with the engine stopped.

Below 12V indicates either a flat battery or one with a damaged cell.

With the engine running the volts should be in the range of 13 to 14.2 volts and should hold steady through the rev range.

If the reading goes above 14.5 Volts then the alternator controls are blown or there are earth probs.

Check the normal probs. FIRST is there a good (large) earth connection from the engine to the battery and to the body? Are the connections clean and tight? Is there paint/rust in the way of any of these connections?

Only then should you start looking further.

Ian

Volt meter should be reading the battery voltage.

So one end of the battery is earth therefore one end of the meter to earth.

The other end goes to the battery, but as you do not want it to flatten the battery if left standing for some time it is connected through the ignition switch.

A lot of these meters are hot wire as this damps the reading. These do not care which way round they are connected and so they have 2 insulated terminals.

The voltage changes the reading of things like the fuel and temp guages, this is a square law, so small voltage changes give noticable changes in guage readings. Therefore a voltage regulator is the norm for electrical type guages except voltmeters.

ian

Absolute bog standard 5V regulator as made originally by Fairchild about 30 years ago and copied by everyone and thier rover since.

The fact that it is a 5V reg does not stop creative engineering from reseting it higher and i suspect that the diode does just this giveing a steady voltage in the range of 8 to 10 volts.

The IACV is used to give a constant idle. The ECU looks at the engine revs and rate of change of revs when the the engine is near idle to control it. Plus large loads like aircon if fitted.

Ian

Let us know how this works.

My problem is water coming under the screen as the sikaflex seal between the bottom rail and the scuttle has given up after 7 years continuous use. I realy must buy some more and fix this.

The second place I get leaks is between the glass and the channel.

The seven popers that fix my hood to the top rail have worked Ok until now.

Ian

The early sierras had key operated filler caps.

Later models had a flap that was released by lifting a lever next to the drivers seat.

Ian

A certain Staffs member built one from start to finish in 10 days and went to LeMans in it. He got the dates wrong and had to hurry a bit.

Mind you this was his 6th robin hood build...

I built mine in 7 months at about 25 hours a week and a couple of breaks. So about 550 hours.

I have redone a fair bit in the 7 years since.

Design weight is the maximum static weight that the axle is expected to see.

The brake test uses this info.

If the car + fuel + passengers + luggage can come out to more than the weight you have declaired then expect a fail.

The first thing to check is that volts are getting to the regulator.

Then check that the output of the regulator (the wire going to both guages) has a steady 8 to 10 volts on it.

Also check that the regulator is grounded> It will not work without a referance point!

If you want to check the guages actually work connecting 12 volts to them will not kill anything but the guages will over read.

Ian

Was there any packing in the silencer to start with?

I have repacked mine twice now It is quieter than it was new.

Forgot to add that the perspex is protected by peel off white plastic sheets, as this style of hood stopped production in 97 this might take some peeling off.

Ian

The stainless goes down the front of the screen to give something to screw the lift off hinges to.

There should be a strip of titanfast to go over the top of the sidescreen to cover the edge of the perspex..

The material strips are to hold the screens closed. A lot of builders only used one per side.

On this age of kit the bottom of the door was hood material on the outside and inside sandwiching a bit of ply to keep the door flat.

The front of the door had a strip of steel built in that was bent to suit the curve of the scuttle. (up to this point the right and left hand side are the same)

The sidescreens are fitted and the excess perspex cut off to suit the opening in the hood.

I will try to take some pics and post them.

Ian