sj-bradley

I was pulled up on the lock nuts on the front flexible brake pipes being on the wrong side of the body. The rear were correct though The pipe must be secured to the bodywork and NOT against the union nut which was my mistake on the day. (Fortunately fixable same day) I.e. flexible Pipe -> body -> locknut -> union nut to copper pipe. Not Flexible -> locknut -> body -> union nut. I understood that the union nut was doing two jobs which is not correct so by changing it round each nut was only doing one job each which is the correct way. Hope you understood my explaination Simon.

That seems strange as I have the same combination zetec, mt75 and raceline sump. Yet the mt75 was over an inch lower than the sump which is why I cut that part away. The sump is more or less level with the bottom rail of the chassis and the first thing that would have caught any road bumps would have been the front edge of the gearbox. I didn't want THAT hitting anything as it might have ripped the engine apart - not good Simon.

Yes, that was puzzling me. However, IVA man wanted me to take the cover off to inspect the pedals and fittings so *KNEW* that there was direct access to the footwell and yet this small gap around the brake reservoir did not flag any attention. I suppose you *could* make a cover to go over the "cover" in order to remove even that hole ? Simon.

Hi florin, I made an error when I took the car to fill it up again and forgot to put back the top of the pedal box. I wondered how my car managed to get this "invisible heater" from until I took the bonnet off again. One of those D'Oh moments ! Simon.

I think you should be able to find a table of maximum torque settings for 8.8 bolts and nuts for example and use that as a guide as to how much a bolt will be able to take before you shear it off. I found one on google here which is quite useful: http://www.leytonfasteners.co.uk/pdfs/TorqueValueGuide.pdf I just googled for "maximum torque on bolts" and that was the first hit. E.g M8 bolt rated 8.8 can only take 25.5 Nm. Hope that helps Simon.

That filler should be ok if that is a non removable cover I think. The cap does not come off the key in the open position does it? If it does, you will need to put a tether strap on it. Caps that can't be removed from the key are IVA ok. (Mine passed like that) (And everyone "knows" that you can lock the cap off the car and remove the key, but that is quietly overlooked me-thinks ) Simon.

Torque settings? Did you read the build manual? You can get these from the haynes manual, but FT (Fully Tight) or various WKT settings should do - that's 3 or 4 White Knuckle Tight As for Hub nuts - Definitely VERY FT around 200 ft lbs Nm, I think or a six foot gorilla on a breaker bar for THAT one. You are unlikely to shear those nuts off ! The nylock nuts will prevent them from coming off. And as I was told by someone who should remain nameless, If Rolls-Royce didn't have torque settings, just good engineers, that's fine with me Best to check these figures out and not rely on mine as they are unlikely to be the right figures. Simon.

Hi, As I recall when fitting the raceline sump (Yes I know it's pricey ) you will find that you can chop off about an inch or just over from the bottom of the gearbox and then there is very little left showing beneath the car. As you can see from this picture. The bit that has been chopped off is on the floor. http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/Kit-Car-Progress/May/images/080.jpg You can see the whole build from day one here: http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/ Oh, and the flywheel is the stock one that came with the engine. 2.0 ltr Zetec Hope that helps, Simon.

Hi, Yes, that fan is too far away unless you are going to make some ducting for it. The fuel filler cap cannot be inside the passenger compartment for IVA. I cannot from this angle tell if this is high enough to mount on the top body panel or not. All edges on the front wishbone that are "sharp" must be covered with something for IVA. Simon.

Hi, In answer to 1) Yes, it is recommended to shorten the sump otherwise there is only about 2 or 3 inches ground clearance. 2) I fitted an mt75 gearbox but the starter motor should be the same. I used the one that GBS sell which fits. 3) Again, I used the mini sized alternator from GBS with mounting kit so don't know the answer to this one. If you already have the alternator, I'd try it out for size first. Simon.

You're lucky iank - my side panel was an early one where this section hadn't been cut out. As it happened, I had to re-stamp the VIN number onto the steering boss holder to get it through IVA. And as this number is fairly long (17 digits), I had to turn the corner for the last few digits. Not neat - but heck - unique ! Simon.

Hi Recycler, A three sided square huh ? How's that go then Simon.

As Stewart said Simon.

DVLA ? I had loads of problems with them ! However, the cloud DID have a silver lining. IVA - Passed 31 Jan - no problems there. DVLA Went in a week later to ask for help filling out form - Forgot to take Cover note - My fault. Back home, found Cover note and posted all forms to DVLA. 3 Days Later - DVLA sent everthing back with ANOTHER form to fill out. Filled out form and posted back same day. Time passes - rang DVLA - No trace of forms - LOST IN POST !! Collected together all copies I kept of documents and went into DVLA Wrote a covering letter explaining Lost In Post - Everything OK - Er - No. The Cover note had expired ! Back home - Rang Insurance. Yes, no problem will send out a new cover note. 1/2 hour later - no sign of e-mail. Rang Insurance again and this time email arrived and printed. BACK into Sheffield same day, show New Cover Note SUCCESS - Got Plating Certificate and Tax disc. Silver lining? Due to the delay the registration was now after 1 March so a 12 plate not a 61 Next Day - Cover note arrived in the post !! What Fun Simon.

More photos which could not be uploaded on the last post. Simon.

I took some photos some years ago and I've attached all I have below. (I might need another post if the limit is exceeded) Simon.

I'm afraid I don't know much about the Willis Jeep and all the armament on it. I'll try and remember to ask next time I'm down at the club Simon.

Hi, I managed to complete the build in a single car garage - it does tend to keep you in the TIDY habit as you don't have much space. See: http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/ Simon.

Hi, The zero calipers only fit one way round, the brackets are handed as you will find out. - See http://www.sj-bradle...arch/index.html If you have managed to get them to fit with the caliper to the rear - How? I managed to fit one side but found that the bolts would not accurately line up and when I tried the other side it was much worse. When I swapped them round, everything fitted perfectly. So this means the calipers HAVE to come off for bleeding air out of them. (Stick a spacer between the pads while doing this) Simon.

Hi, I put one electricians chocolate block over the throttle cable and fed the loose end back through that. Then if the nipple slips, the loop of the cable would act as a backup and not allow the cable to slip any further. Did you not get the bolt as part of the brake fixing kit? The suggestion is to cut the hex head off and round the shaft for the master cylinder. Instructions are on GBS site. As others have said, the wing mirrors are probably too low. The master cylinder pedal cover does leave this hole around the master cylinder - They're all like that though. It's been reduced to the smallest gap possible as far as I can see in order to be able to fit and remove this bit. Simon.

Hi, The bow is 38lb and I am still working up to it again after an operation to repair a broken collarbone. The Browning machine gun ? I wish The Jeep belongs to another club member and I think he would notice if it went missing Simon.

Out and about enjoyng the sunshine and I can just about get the archery gear in it too Simon.

The threadlock on the steering column was sufficient for my IVA examiner, but I added a nylock nut on the part of the bolt extending below that point for my piece of mind afterwards. Simon.

If you had problems with the cables worn through from the tyres, then you must check the rest of the loom in case these shorts have caused the cable to overheat and melt elsewhere. To put up pictures, click on the "more reply options" when you start to reply. There is then an option to upload pictures (must be less than 500k though) Simon.

The only thing left is that there is an insulation fault somewhere. I would try removing ALL the indicator bulbs and fuse and checking the resistance from the bulb side of the fusebox to the chassis. Swap the leads over and check again (In case of a diode behaviour). It should be very high resistance. I would then pick one bulb, measure it off the car - should be 10 ohms or thereabout and try it in each socket in turn. Don't forget to have the switches on / off to be able to test these at the same time. If you have one socket where the readings are lower than the rest - check that part of the circuit first - all corners where the cable goes etc. Make notes as you go. It could also be a faulty relay. As has already been said - a 10 Amp should be sufficient so you must investigate more closely to find out why the fuses are blowing. Hope that helps, Simon.