sj-bradley

Hi Ian, You can cut out the shape for that large gap from some spare sheet aluminium and use the bolt hole to fasten it in place. That smaller gap can be cut out of thin tin plate, possibly top of a roses tin would be the right thickness. Looks like a type 9 gearbox? Simon.

Thinking about it that way, you might be right. Is this a bias bar that you're talking about ? I think if you have discs all round that the pads will have to move the same amount of distance to the discs (usually) so the mechanical advantage of the smaller piston would as you say give a higher pressure. It would have to move further than the larger bore cylinder. I stand corrected. Simon.

I have drawn a simple sketch to show what I meant. If you attach the voltmeter as shown it should show a voltage between battery and 0v and should vary with engine off/idle/medium throttle. (Pictures are worth more than words ) Forgot to add sender label on the resistor ! Simon.

I think I would have to agree (Nice idea though !) Simon.

I opted to have the panels fitted and bonded on as there are less rivets showing, but I agree that it did make access a little harder, but not impossible. Simon.

I think I recall it IS M10 but metric Fine not standard metric Coarse. (I may be wrong though) Simon.

Well well, an interesting day today Post arrived and I was pleased to find that it contained all the missing original receipts that I had posted to the DVLA. I thought that the Postal Service had found them and returned them to me. Opening it though revealed something quite different. It had actually come from the DVLA as, enclosed within, was ANOTHER plating certificate and a SECOND TAX DISC ! Odd, I thought - until I read the registration number - which was one letter DIFFERENT to the one I already have ! It seems like the DVLA had this all along yet swore blind that they hadn't received it Question is - Do I send back the second tax disc for a refund ? ! Simon.

!!!

Assuming the front and rear calipers are the same size for now. A smaller bore would move LESS fluid than the larger bore for the same amount of travel so there would be a smaller movement of the cylinders attached to that one (assume rear cylinders) so less pressure. Large Bore - more fluid - more movement on slave cylinders (if they are the same size) so more pressure on the pads. Simon.

In that case, did they also trim the side where the starter motor bolts on as that is very close otherwise. Odd though that GBS would have done this. You're fortunate though as it took me 6 hours under the car to trim that bit off with a hacksaw ! I wasn't going to pull the engine out just for that Simon.

Do you know what the sender is supposed to be "sending" when it's working? Sounds like somewhere between 0 and 12 Volts You could then try and put a known voltage from a suitable battery pack to simulate a reading from the sender to see if the gauge reads it correctly. You can also put an voltmeter instead of the gauge and see what readings you get with engine off or running. I would first disconnect both ends and do a continuity check between the ends and also between wire and ground (chassis) in case you have a short there. (Before you put an ohm meter between wire and ground, put it on volts scale and check between wire and chassis then wire and Positive 12 Volts. You should NOT get any reading if that wire goes straight from sender to gauge as it should be insulated from both ground and 12 Volts) I think (after re-reading your post) that if you have bypassed the loom and gone from sender to gauge, you should take a voltage reading between the sender-gauge wire and ground. It should be between 0 and battery positive. If it doesn't change with engine running or not running then you have a short somewhere. Sounds like you need to test the gauge on a separate supply off the car. Simon.

Hello Bolton1966, It doesn't really matter how long you take to build it I think. However, the best advice I had was if you start getting annoyed at it - walk away until another day. That way you will have had time to think over the problem and find another way of doing it. Oh, as well as the enforced waiting while the part you need is being posted/made/powdercoated/reconditioned etc If you are interested you can check out my web page at: http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/ Most of the written diary was done while on Christmas holidays with my family in Spain. The photos were done at the time. Welcome to the (mad) world of the Hoodies Simon.

Hello, I used a LWB transit type van which managed to get everything and engine in it as well. It was a dreadful thing to drive and had more dents in it than the Hitchikers Guide did ! I suppose I got my own back when the differential overturned in the back and dumped the oil everywhere ! Simon.

Sorry to hear the news. Hope that you make a full and speedy recovery, Simon.

There were "VIDEOS" ? Gasp Those I wouldn't mind seeing for myself. I can convert them to DVD so if anyone has some I could borrow for a while ? I would be interested. Simon.

Hi, If your steering lock on full lock fouls the tyres, have you considered adding a spacer inside the steering rack to limit the amount of travel so that full lock is physically limited? It would go inside the steering boot I believe so would need a strip down to fit one (or two for both sides) Simon.

Hi, As far as I am aware, the only way to adjust the pinion / crownwheel tolerances is the deformable spacer that goes between pinion and housing. If you try your way, it would mean twisting the axis of the crownwheel and therefore the contact patch between pinion and crownwheel. As longboarder states. Possibly there is no problem. I heard no end of strange sounds when I first took the car for a real drive. So longboarders reply has me less worried now as well. Thanks, Simon.

There was around 1 1/2 inches difference if I recall. (I can't be exact tonight as it would mean moving all the cars to get into the garage and hunt around for the bit I chopped off. I'll try and remember tomorrow and get a picture of the bit. Simon.

I was pulled up on the lock nuts on the front flexible brake pipes being on the wrong side of the body. The rear were correct though The pipe must be secured to the bodywork and NOT against the union nut which was my mistake on the day. (Fortunately fixable same day) I.e. flexible Pipe -> body -> locknut -> union nut to copper pipe. Not Flexible -> locknut -> body -> union nut. I understood that the union nut was doing two jobs which is not correct so by changing it round each nut was only doing one job each which is the correct way. Hope you understood my explaination Simon.

That seems strange as I have the same combination zetec, mt75 and raceline sump. Yet the mt75 was over an inch lower than the sump which is why I cut that part away. The sump is more or less level with the bottom rail of the chassis and the first thing that would have caught any road bumps would have been the front edge of the gearbox. I didn't want THAT hitting anything as it might have ripped the engine apart - not good Simon.

Yes, that was puzzling me. However, IVA man wanted me to take the cover off to inspect the pedals and fittings so *KNEW* that there was direct access to the footwell and yet this small gap around the brake reservoir did not flag any attention. I suppose you *could* make a cover to go over the "cover" in order to remove even that hole ? Simon.

Hi florin, I made an error when I took the car to fill it up again and forgot to put back the top of the pedal box. I wondered how my car managed to get this "invisible heater" from until I took the bonnet off again. One of those D'Oh moments ! Simon.

I think you should be able to find a table of maximum torque settings for 8.8 bolts and nuts for example and use that as a guide as to how much a bolt will be able to take before you shear it off. I found one on google here which is quite useful: http://www.leytonfasteners.co.uk/pdfs/TorqueValueGuide.pdf I just googled for "maximum torque on bolts" and that was the first hit. E.g M8 bolt rated 8.8 can only take 25.5 Nm. Hope that helps Simon.

That filler should be ok if that is a non removable cover I think. The cap does not come off the key in the open position does it? If it does, you will need to put a tether strap on it. Caps that can't be removed from the key are IVA ok. (Mine passed like that) (And everyone "knows" that you can lock the cap off the car and remove the key, but that is quietly overlooked me-thinks ) Simon.

Torque settings? Did you read the build manual? You can get these from the haynes manual, but FT (Fully Tight) or various WKT settings should do - that's 3 or 4 White Knuckle Tight As for Hub nuts - Definitely VERY FT around 200 ft lbs Nm, I think or a six foot gorilla on a breaker bar for THAT one. You are unlikely to shear those nuts off ! The nylock nuts will prevent them from coming off. And as I was told by someone who should remain nameless, If Rolls-Royce didn't have torque settings, just good engineers, that's fine with me Best to check these figures out and not rely on mine as they are unlikely to be the right figures. Simon.