sj-bradley

Hi, As I recall when fitting the raceline sump (Yes I know it's pricey ) you will find that you can chop off about an inch or just over from the bottom of the gearbox and then there is very little left showing beneath the car. As you can see from this picture. The bit that has been chopped off is on the floor. http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/Kit-Car-Progress/May/images/080.jpg You can see the whole build from day one here: http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/ Oh, and the flywheel is the stock one that came with the engine. 2.0 ltr Zetec Hope that helps, Simon.

Hi, Yes, that fan is too far away unless you are going to make some ducting for it. The fuel filler cap cannot be inside the passenger compartment for IVA. I cannot from this angle tell if this is high enough to mount on the top body panel or not. All edges on the front wishbone that are "sharp" must be covered with something for IVA. Simon.

Hi, In answer to 1) Yes, it is recommended to shorten the sump otherwise there is only about 2 or 3 inches ground clearance. 2) I fitted an mt75 gearbox but the starter motor should be the same. I used the one that GBS sell which fits. 3) Again, I used the mini sized alternator from GBS with mounting kit so don't know the answer to this one. If you already have the alternator, I'd try it out for size first. Simon.

You're lucky iank - my side panel was an early one where this section hadn't been cut out. As it happened, I had to re-stamp the VIN number onto the steering boss holder to get it through IVA. And as this number is fairly long (17 digits), I had to turn the corner for the last few digits. Not neat - but heck - unique ! Simon.

Hi Recycler, A three sided square huh ? How's that go then Simon.

As Stewart said Simon.

DVLA ? I had loads of problems with them ! However, the cloud DID have a silver lining. IVA - Passed 31 Jan - no problems there. DVLA Went in a week later to ask for help filling out form - Forgot to take Cover note - My fault. Back home, found Cover note and posted all forms to DVLA. 3 Days Later - DVLA sent everthing back with ANOTHER form to fill out. Filled out form and posted back same day. Time passes - rang DVLA - No trace of forms - LOST IN POST !! Collected together all copies I kept of documents and went into DVLA Wrote a covering letter explaining Lost In Post - Everything OK - Er - No. The Cover note had expired ! Back home - Rang Insurance. Yes, no problem will send out a new cover note. 1/2 hour later - no sign of e-mail. Rang Insurance again and this time email arrived and printed. BACK into Sheffield same day, show New Cover Note SUCCESS - Got Plating Certificate and Tax disc. Silver lining? Due to the delay the registration was now after 1 March so a 12 plate not a 61 Next Day - Cover note arrived in the post !! What Fun Simon.

More photos which could not be uploaded on the last post. Simon.

I took some photos some years ago and I've attached all I have below. (I might need another post if the limit is exceeded) Simon.

I'm afraid I don't know much about the Willis Jeep and all the armament on it. I'll try and remember to ask next time I'm down at the club Simon.

Hi, I managed to complete the build in a single car garage - it does tend to keep you in the TIDY habit as you don't have much space. See: http://www.sj-bradley.talktalk.net/ Simon.

Hi, The zero calipers only fit one way round, the brackets are handed as you will find out. - See http://www.sj-bradle...arch/index.html If you have managed to get them to fit with the caliper to the rear - How? I managed to fit one side but found that the bolts would not accurately line up and when I tried the other side it was much worse. When I swapped them round, everything fitted perfectly. So this means the calipers HAVE to come off for bleeding air out of them. (Stick a spacer between the pads while doing this) Simon.

Hi, I put one electricians chocolate block over the throttle cable and fed the loose end back through that. Then if the nipple slips, the loop of the cable would act as a backup and not allow the cable to slip any further. Did you not get the bolt as part of the brake fixing kit? The suggestion is to cut the hex head off and round the shaft for the master cylinder. Instructions are on GBS site. As others have said, the wing mirrors are probably too low. The master cylinder pedal cover does leave this hole around the master cylinder - They're all like that though. It's been reduced to the smallest gap possible as far as I can see in order to be able to fit and remove this bit. Simon.

Hi, The bow is 38lb and I am still working up to it again after an operation to repair a broken collarbone. The Browning machine gun ? I wish The Jeep belongs to another club member and I think he would notice if it went missing Simon.

Out and about enjoyng the sunshine and I can just about get the archery gear in it too Simon.

The threadlock on the steering column was sufficient for my IVA examiner, but I added a nylock nut on the part of the bolt extending below that point for my piece of mind afterwards. Simon.

If you had problems with the cables worn through from the tyres, then you must check the rest of the loom in case these shorts have caused the cable to overheat and melt elsewhere. To put up pictures, click on the "more reply options" when you start to reply. There is then an option to upload pictures (must be less than 500k though) Simon.

The only thing left is that there is an insulation fault somewhere. I would try removing ALL the indicator bulbs and fuse and checking the resistance from the bulb side of the fusebox to the chassis. Swap the leads over and check again (In case of a diode behaviour). It should be very high resistance. I would then pick one bulb, measure it off the car - should be 10 ohms or thereabout and try it in each socket in turn. Don't forget to have the switches on / off to be able to test these at the same time. If you have one socket where the readings are lower than the rest - check that part of the circuit first - all corners where the cable goes etc. Make notes as you go. It could also be a faulty relay. As has already been said - a 10 Amp should be sufficient so you must investigate more closely to find out why the fuses are blowing. Hope that helps, Simon.

D'Oh - I forgot the repeaters on the edge ! Mind, they shouldn't be 21 Watt anyway - I thought they would be ok with 5 Watt and then you'd get 4 x 21W + 10W = 94 W which is just under 8 Amps. I know my repeaters are LEDs so a 10 Amp would be sufficient. You really DO have to check the size of the cable which supplies them though to make sure that its capacity is greater than the fuse rating. After all, you want the fuse to burn out first and NOT the wiring. Also, a 10 Amp rated fuse could probably take up to 15 Amps for a number of seconds before it burns out. Hence the reason that your hazards work briefly and then blow the fuse. You have to look up the time / current characteristics for this. For example a BS88 10 Amp fuse can take 12 Amps indefinitely (At least 4 hours) and blows in 1 second at a rated 40 (FORTY) amps. That's why most homes and industry now use circuit breakers and RCDs with trip times of 30 milliseconds. Simon.

Thanks for the advice - so quick too I'll not get a chance until Saturday to look at this and will report back once I get this sorted out. (Hopefully not Too costly Simon.

Ok, so it's not "Hood" related, but it IS an engine problem - Mine I have a 55 plate Renault Laguna diesel estate 1.9 dCi (useful to collect kit parts etc) which has developed a "Check Injection" warning light and has lost most of the useful power. It seems to be in a "maintence" mode or "get you home" mode so it runs albeit fairly roughly. I wonder if anyone can help point me in the right direction - I.e what it could possibly be? I have read that the EGR valve / sensor could need cleaning and I've checked the glow plugs which seem fine at 0.6 ohms and cleaned the electrical connections as a preliminary test with no luck. I have also tried (a simple) OBD II code reader with no joy as well - (No codes). I will be able to check the EGR on saturday to see if that helps. I have booked a diagnostic with a local garage but would like to try and understand this problem before then if possible. Any ideas anyone? Thanks, Simon.

With regard to upgrading the fuse - Is the cable capable of taking this current? You don't want that to overheat, melt and short circuit as you could be introducing a fire risk. The fuse rating should be less than the cable capacity. I.e 27 amp cable for 20 amp fuse and not the other way around. Out of interest, what size (Wattage) are those front indicators? Sounds like WW2 searchlights Mind you, those indicators only work half the time so the cable could probably take the current for short periods. Do they seem to flash quicker or slower than expected? Simon.

No, that is the "Standard" "Lorem Ipsum" pseudo latin that is just used to fill up space for testing purposes. It doesn't mean anything other than that. Simon.

Regarding the headlight alignment for the IVA I didn't bother attempting to adjust as it would be an easy and quick fix on the day. As it happened - One light was correct and the examiner just "leaned" a little to get the other one right Regarding the Tin top though - Your headlights would have to be the same height as the tin top for that to work Simon.

What size fuse is blowing? My quick calculation is 4 x 21 watt is 84 watt which would take 7 amps so you'd need a 10 amp fuse. If it's the same fuse for the indicators and you're using a 5 amp fuse, the indicators would work fine (I.e 3.5 Amps), but the fuse would blow when you use the hazards - hence the 3 flashes and pop Simon.