knights_templar

Link1 is good, and shows problem with blowing fuses. normal park has a feed which is switched by the motors park switch, (pin 2 on diagram) however the Lucas motor park switch earths the park feed every revolution of the cam, so you must switch the feed to pin 2 off when the motor is on. The Lucas switch is designed to do this, but you can also get the ford switch to mimic it. wire as per Link one and you should not have a problem, in my experience. PM me if you need pin numbers Regards

sorry, may be confused. high pressure pump to swirl pot to fuel regulator to fuel rail to swirl pot? shouldn't that be swirl pot to high pressure fuel pump to fuel rail to regulator back to swirl pot? regards

GBS? possibly? or have them made, one or two club members have machining equipment, but it might be back to GBS for the drawings regards

Hi Simon noticed you were booked for test, good luck. as we have discussed before, don't stray from standard until after IVA. but will be interested if you try HID Regards

zero tank is designed to be bonded in, no need for for straps/brackets

Hi Hammy have heard of forum member who had the front pipe (pre mod) and rear pipe (post mod) In effect older type front pipe slid into rear, on newer type rear slides into front, or other way round don't know which. suspect if neither slip into either you have a mismatch. talk to GBS Regards

if you are concerned about a fail on IVA, it should not be a problem. there is some helpful information in the IVA manual about seating and belts, but as far as I can remember, your problem is not mentioned. current GBS car has the same thing on it's top mounts and I have not heard of any failing for that reason Regards

back end of gearbox will move around to much on engine power. pickup would be impossible if not mounted firmly to gearbox, and even then it would be better not to expose electronics to the vibration in this area. would advise diff front flange. chassis looks like 2B or derivative, and I know there is little in diff area to secure the sender to, most make up a bracket to hold the sender and mount it to the rear sub-frame.

XS is July 1999 regards

if everything works, can understand your reticence at changing things, however it is not "standard" or what driver other than yourself would expect getting into your car. don't know if this is a fail for IVA suspect mod is very simple, have you taken your ignition feed from the yellow wire on the ignition switch? that is auxiliary, radio, cigar lighter etc, move it to the Black/yellow wire and it should work as standard.

would a donor kit be any good?

how old is your chassis? original Zero chassis plate for gearbox mount turned up at the front, this allowed the mount to sit on top, however the front lip was known to catch the gearbox. the later plate has its front edge turned down, and because of this the plate is higher and the mounting needs to be fitted under the plate. engine should then be level, provided you position the engine mounts with no loading, otherwise the plates slip outward, tentioning the mounts, not good for vibration, and causing the engine to sit lower. Regards

Emearald ECU is set for, on at 98c of at 94c

I belive the VG loom live switches the headlights. test by putting a test light to the brown/black wire that goes into the head light switch (pin 56) to earth if it come on when the head lights are switched on then its live switched and you can sort your problem by taking a wire from the brown/black to the input of the foglighty switch. If it is earth switch then unfortunatly you must put a reversing relay into circuit, ignition live to 85 & 87, 86 to brown/black, 30 to foglight switch. Regards

"Getting There" is correct with with method, and spacing pads, be careful that the piston does not come out as the handbrake adjuster will start to adjust up, you will then need a tool, or fiddling with water pump pliers, to wind it back in.

fixing type is not part of IVA do what you feel secures them best

Sorry, misunderstood, unfortunately can't help

Ford have discontinued that part. GBS are making new ones http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?product=9011 regards

thats right, rotor goes clockwise, so leads go to plugs in firing order, 1-3-4-2, if you are still getting nothing, you better check the dizzy wiring, you mention the wire from coil to dizzy and mention the only other wire is to the tacho, how does it get its feed? standard system is ignition to + on coil, - on coil to dizzy, tachometer wire on -, coil is switched off and on by contacts (switch) in the distributer. electronic ignition just replaces the mechanical switch, (I know the Bestek does other things), but will need its own ignition live. Bestek site gives no detail of wiring, so just a thought, have you a live to the coil still? and one to the dizzy?

have you had the reversing light switch out?

yes you have made the error, hope this is the simplest explanation to sort. find engine timing mark on front pulley and align with timing mark (TDC) on case. that will get No 1 AND No 4 pistons to their highest point, but you need to find out which one is on its compression stroke. think the easiest way would be to remove cam cover and look at the cam, if cam lobs for No1 are facing upward (away from the cam) its on TDC firing, if not turn the engine 360 until the timing marks align again. you can now remove the distributer and fit it back in so that when fully home the rotor points to the afore mentioned mark, that should now be firing No 1. this should get you started (put the cam cover on first, or you will get covered in oil) timing should now be set accurately with timing light have fun let us know how it goes

good to hear you have progress. on the emission map you can get the exhaust running red hot, so yes it does run hot, one of the results of running lean

you may be thinking of a different type of sensor longboarder Emerald are happy with theirs mounted in air, not airflow. you want ambient air temp in the engine bay, air flow will have a cooling effect, which will leave enrichment on longer

that sounds better now try the emissions map, should tick-over like that.

interesting, so it went wrong after you did this, may be a clue? both GBS maps were created with a adjustable pressure regulator set at 3 bar, Emerald ECU temp sender, Emerald ECU air temperature sender, Emerald TPS and the injectors from the Zetec GBS supply, so you shouldn't have to touch anything in the ECU setup except calibrate TPS. as said before, idle stabilization was put in to smooth tick-over but has latter proved to be problematic in some situations, try with it on and off. both maps run most engines fine out of the box, however the emissions map MAY need "tweaking" to suit each vehicle for IVA, especially with Jenvey's most likely because they mount the injectors away from their originally designed position. as recommended clean map, switch of everything you touched in firmware including Lambda, back to basics. have fun, keep posting