Shandylegs

Iron Block I'm afraid, potentially a good engine but also with added the ability to slow large ships very quickly. Given the info stated Rover V8 sounds like the best option. Cheers Shandylegs

Neil Try www.Yukspeed.com

Mike Although the YB engine is based on the Pinto Block the type 9 gearbox will not fit due to differences with the flywheel. Options are: - Have a flywheel specially made, or - Fit the T5 box although as the T5 is bigger I don't know if you will encounter problems with clearance in the tunnel (Why is nothing ever simple ) Please keep posting as to how you are getting on, as ultimately this is the route that I also wish to go down Cheers Shandylegs

Will be there either Saturday or Sunday, weather (and car) dependant Cheers Shandylegs

Stu IMO in your case I would leave well alone as the charicteristics of a turbocharged engine are very different to those of a normally asparated engine with development of both usually following a different route.

This depends on the exhaust used. If using the 4-1 tubilar jobbie then try the cable fromr a MK3 Granada (2.0 Pinto) it's longer Thanks Shandylegs

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Simon Have you also checked for air leaks on the inlet side of things. I had the same problem and traced this back to a vac pipe tapped into my inlet manifold. Cheers Shandylegs

The Sierra Cosworth (2wd) YB engine was indeed based on the same 205 block as the later injection models but with different innards specifically for the purpose of handling more power (Steel crank, extra flywheel bolts etc..). When the 4WD Sierra Cosworth was launched Ford used a revised block which had added internal webbing to increase strength (This block should not be confused with the motorsport 200 Block, but I’ll not go down that road). The amount of power a 205 block can handle when in Cosworth guise has been discussed at length with the general consensus being about 330-350HP (Flywheel) safely. Ford never mass produced an alloy pinto block but their motorsport division developed a few units, a few of these have filtered down into private hands. The last I heard was that these are still available the price, a mere snip at between £4-5K (For the block only) , this then requires machining to suit it’s intended application. Hope this helps Shandylegs

Ant: Like most the common parasite called the power bug bit me. After briefly flirting with the idea of Vauxhall 16v (put off by the mods required to fit), or a N/A Cosworth (dismissed on the grounds of cost) I decided to tune the trusty Pinto further. Plan 1 1. Head Set 2. A skimmed big valve head with piper 300 cam replaced the standard (but ported) head and Piper 270 3. Set of 36mm chokes for the carbs. (Biggest that will fit 40’s. Would have preferred 45/48’s but again dismissed on grounds of cost) 30 test miles later the dreaded death rattle appeared….. Bu**er, out with the spanners again. Broken Valve Spring found to be the cause. Put myself through a few nights mental torture (From reading other people’s exploits I now know it’s not just me that does this) thinking was this caused by coil binding, old age or just my inability to put things together correctly! Plan2 After much deliberation Plan 2 was hatched meaning stripping the head, replacing the valve springs. Another head set later with the cam & ign timing set extra carefully I fired it up and it did (literally!) This is one of the worst things that has ever happened to me whilst working on cars (This is saying something from the man who managed to drive a car through a showroom window, but thats another story) and hopefully the events described below may serve as a warning to others. From what I can make out it appears whoever had previously wired the electric fan up had done so via the means of a thermostat and relay directly from the battery but omitted to use any kind of inline fuse. When a connector decided to ‘go south’ I was left with a battery discharging directly through the wiring loom to earth. The first thing that happened was smoke (At this point I thought the car had overheated) when I saw flames & the wiring loom disintegrating before my eyes all I could think of was Christ how do I stop this because flames directly next to the 4 open bell mouths of the carbs is not a good. On reflection I should have just walked away and let nature take it’s course but in these situations you do silly things like standing on one foot using the other to stamp out the flames whilst disconnecting the battery with a spanner. Plan3 After finally daring to look at the damage caused I set about looking at the damage. Luckily my worst nightmares were not realised as the heat had not penetrated to the fuse box and most of the ign – distributor - amplifier wiring remained. After that it was out with the soldering iron and in due course the job done. Anyway novel over, cheers Shandylegs

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Sorry should perhaps have supplied a few more details Built 1998, but carries an age related 'B plate' Thanks Shandylegs

Hi All Quick query I hope. Somewhere in the back of my mind I'm positive that I read that when taking your kit car for a MOT the emissions test should consist of a visual check only. - Can anyone confirm this, and also presuming there is an MOT Testers Guide (Bible?), - Supply me with the appropriate passage of text that I can make reference to? Thanks Shandylegs

Boggie I have 195/50/15 Goodyear Eagles fitted all round and have found that 18psi seems to suit my 3a best. i.e. Plenty of grip with mild progressive oversteer when approaching the limit (Of course only on my personal private testing ground.....officer ). I would guess that there is no definative answer to this question as different people have different requirements from their cars. Regards Shandylegs

Try Burton Power for the earlier type of head bolt (Spline). Word of warning: Although I have never had any problems with Spline bolts, other users have in the past have stated they are very easy to strip because of the finer teeth on the bolt head. Also, If like me you do not have a spline bit (12mm I think) kicking around at home I would recommend ordering one from Burton at the same time as the bolts (Comes with 1/2 Socket attachment made by Draper for approx 4 Nuggets) as they are an absolute cow to find. Regards Shandylegs

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Nick, The Pinto engine & box are extremely robust engines. The bottom end is able to withstand a fair amount of tuning (Circa 140-150hp) before needing any real form of upgrading (Ditto the G/box) provided they are in a serviceable condition. You are indeed correct that the inlet ports are of a different shape but I have never encountered any problems with this when running on carbs. Anyway enough of my ramblings and on to the important bit......... Over the course of this winter I have been upgrading to a big valve head and should be completed in the next couple of weeks. Provided there are no disasters in the pipeline (Bent valves etc...) I will have a spare injection head that, if you are a member of RhoCar, can go for free. The head is in excellent condition, the ports have been reprofiled to a good standard (Not done my me!!) and is fitted with a Piper road cam (Showing wear on lobes, but by no means the worst I have seen). When last on a rolling road this head on a standard bottom end gave a genuine 104hp @ wheels (A standard engine usually records circa 86/87hp) with the R/hood 4 into 1, and DHLA 40's (although fitted with extremely small chokes for midrange rather than outright power). Let me know if you are interested......

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