Bob Tucker

That looks like a GAZ shocker. They rebuild worn shockers, they may be able to replace the rod & check it over for less than

a new replacement.

Hi Shaun,

loads of info on youtube...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=remove+grp+scratches

Could be a leaking head gasket into a water way. You can get a test "sniffer" kit to see if the water is contaminated by exhaust gas. IIIRC.

do a search here....someone used one.

Also make sure the fan is running the right way. I dont mean pushing vs pulling. "changing the direction of rotation is easy, but the blades are designed  and shaped to work most efficiently only in one direction.

It does have limitations, but if put together right, it is perfectly usable on the road. But definitely not for enthusiastic track days.

If you mean the chrome shaft that the hub slides up and down on, I assume you mean that the skinny threaded part that bolts to the lower fixed wishbone has broken.

No surprise, it was always too flimsy. Many pillar owners had the skinny threaded part machined off, and tapped into the bottom of the shaft to take either a much bigger stud or a bolt. Talk to a local engineering shop.

Sorry no. Ill see if I can wriggle under there.

You will need to fit a reinforcing frame under the floor for the seat mounting bolts and the central seat belt mountings.

Most of us made an "H" pattern in angle iron that bolts to the lower chassis rails.

HTH

The standard kit was mild steel chassis and body panels. Stainless was an option for both.

https://www.yell.com/biz/dave-the-trimmer-classic-and-custom-vehicle-upholstery-ltd-camberley-7037779/

https://weber-carbs.co.uk/shop/product/air-filter-weber-dgav-dgv-weber-32-36-38-dgv-dgav-dgev-dgas-dgms-dges-carburettor-air-filter/

The filter is for a DGV Weber, which was fitted to a lot of 2l Sierras. But they also had  different Webers.

Best to confirm  what yours is before ordering, also the height of the existing filter. 

+1 for woolies.

well, on the bright side, you've had plenty of practice....the next one will be a doddle. 

Sounds like a real blast. The SKCC guys around here are also a great bunch.

But they do hustle on a bit quick for me nowadays. 

The mileages per day suggest you were doing the same...

"a strict standard and a high degree of uniqueness."

There is. It must be 17 characters, random numbers and letters, no special characters.

All manufacturers issue their own, GBS could have issued you with anything that fits that rule.  Avoid DVLA bureaucracy at all costs, esp. snail mail.

Many of us have chosen our own VINs that mean something to us. Mine includes initials, postcode, and the RHE invoice number.

Not much chance of anyone duplicating that, but the DVLA check it for uniqueness when you submit it anyway. 

You can check the camber easily enough, if a bit inaccurate.

 Get 2 13mm  (ish) nuts, tiewrap them to a long spirit level. Park the car on flat level ground, slide the nuts up and down so they touch the top and bottom of the rim. The bubble will tell you if the wheel is canted in or out at the top. Ive adjusted mine to about 1/4 bubble in at the top. & it does pretty well on trackdays and no adverse tyre wear.

My switch (85 Sierra) keeps everything powered on while the starter operates. If the headlights are on they do dim a bit while the starter operates.

If you can measure the bearing, SKF or anyone selling their products, can supply just about any bearing ever made.

You need inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness. You may even see a reference number on the bearing itself.

Being an electric luddite, I just cut into the wire going between the ignition  switch  and the starter solenoid.

I then put a PUSH ONCE bus button centre dash and connected the wire to either side of it. To start the engine I surreptitiously turn the key against the spring, then push the big red button, or let the grandkids do it. Its foolproof as pushing the red button without the key being turned does nothing.

Luddite story no. 2

I fitted a new dash with all LED warning lights. I couldnt understand why the alternator light wouldnt go right off, just glimmer and flicker. Eventually a friend explained in kiddy language that it needed more of a load to kick start it. So I cut the wire (sound familiar?) and fitted a small red bulb in a holder, that is hidden behind the dash, giving a nice red footwell glow when I turn on the ignition.

KISS

That sounds like you fitted it all up correctly, but it sounds like you need a larger diameter clutch quadrant.

The clutch is designed to work with a small amount of friction at rest but not much.

Then you need substantial throw to disengage it enough for smooth silent gear changes.

Search this site...there's load of info on bigger quadrants or Hoody style free fixes.

The clutch friction plate has a "flat" side and a "convex" side. I dont think it would even fit if you tried the wrong way round.

The clutch cover can be put back in any position unless you had the whole assembly balanced. Very unlikely, generally only done for full  race engines.

When does it squeak, as you depress the pedal, while you hold the pedal down, as you release it, all the time?

Check the cable isnt rubbing somewhere at either end.

Kit cars are fun, innit?

Have you looked at the servo from a Sierra? I'd be surprised if its massively different to the cortina.

My servo and master cylinder look a lot like your setup.

Ford are pretty lazy at redesigning stuff, often re-using bits from a previous model. 

I understand there may not be many around, but it might be a simpler fix.

As Nelmo says, the Zeros come in at around 620kg.  A 2B derivative is a bit more lardy, around 720 - 770.

Im sorry I dont know about the Exmo, but there are public weighbridges dotted around if you really want to find out.

The SVA uses design (max) weights, not actual weight.

Inconvenient, but a really cheap fix!

It sounded like a real heavy knock that pointed to the crankshaft somewhere.....I never imagined a loose flywheel.

But as you say lesson learned! Not just you but everyone else too.

Thanks for posting the fault.

Removing the engine is a real pain, but the builder sounds like a decent chap.

Good luck, and keep us informed.

They are the same car. The Plus simply had a few extras added to the base car when it was sold by RHE.

https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm