Robbie 2B

Got mine - camping sounds good, can you please add my name to the list. Should be quite a show - is it going to become a 'RHOCAR' event? Robbie

Paul Fitting them was not that easy - even in a 2B. Anyway the Sierra ones are now on the dump. I will drop the frames off on Saturday. Pix as promised. Robbie

Daren No problem, it looks as if I am going on the Saturday so will drop it off then Robbie

Any takers for the following before they go to the dump 1. Two Ricardo seat sub-frames 2. A two-piece hood frame for a 2B with brackets and bolts. Can take them to Dieting if required Robbie

Max I read in an engine tuning manual that by using a top of the range fully synthetic oil it will provide a slight increase in power output. It was a couple of years ago and all I can remember is that the book was Australian and alot of the tuning was based around Holden cars. What I do remember is that the cost per BHP ratio was better than any hardware tweaks. I must admit that I can not fork out £30 plus for 5 litres of oil - will see if there any bargains at the Kent show. Robbie

Paul You have a PM Robbie

I have a two piece hood frame and fixing lugs - sorry the associated coach bolts have gone walk-a-bout. The frame was purchased from RH when I picked the kit up in 2003. Does anyone who lives local want them? (They are not the thing to stick in the post, Lolocost charge £15 for the p&p). I am going to the Surrey meet this coming Sunday so can bring them to that if it helps. Cost - a pint in the pub sounds about right Robbie

Thanks to all who replied. It was the stepper motor contacts. Had the day off work and cleaned the outside of the carb. Did a run down and around Crawley, lots of starts and stops and hey presto no hunting. Thanks again for your help. Robbie

I have a 2B with the bog standard 2 ltr Sierra set up, Weber carb and ECU. When the engine is warm and at tickover, foot off the accelerator, the revs start to hunt between 1,000 and 1,700 in a cyclic pattern. The cycle is about 3 seconds for the revs to rise and then fall. Blipping the throttle does not help, the hunting just starts again once the revs died. I have given it a few runs at 6,000 revs but again with no effect. Has anyone come across this and if so how do you rectify the problem? Many thanks Robbie:angry:

Just another photo of the meet. It was good to see you all and hope to catch you again at Detling. Robbie

Merry Christmas to one and all. Thanks for all the help and advice over the year and I hope that the next is blessed with sunny weekends and cheap beer. Robbie

Les I could not discribe the effects better. Sounds as if you hit the nail on the head, something I will have to check tomorrow. Many thanks to all who answered. Robbie

Jim The first time the fault occured (loss of power similar to lossing a pot or two) I stopped and checked everything, wiring both LT and HT sides, petrol supply piping, I had just changed the petrol filter and washed the air filter the weekend before so knew they were OK. After stopping in the services for less than 5 minutes everything was back to normal. One thing I did notice was on the over-run the exhaust was poping and banging more than it had done previously and subsequently did on the run back on the Sunday. Robbie

Run to Exeter show on Saturday morning was cold coming back on Sunday was almost enjoyable, what with the relatively warm weather in the south west and power sliding on the slippy roads etc. In all a 428 mile round trip. The problem was that the carb kept icing up and a stop every 30 to 40 was required. Has anybody else come across this problem and how have you cured it? The temperature gauge was hardly registering on the Saturday and the fuel consumption diabolical. Nearly two full tanks to get there and only one and a splash to come back on the Sunday, both days cruising at 70-75. Show was good but and a few RH on Saturday but not may 2B's. Not sure about the car shown below. Robbie

Derek Pix as requested. 3 off 4 mm by 10 mm stainless rivits, seems to be holding OK. Robbie

Thanks Jez, concur with your view at least it would let the frame sit on the rear deck and not the roll over bar supports. Beginning to think I was a leper , 121 views and no response. I am hoping to go to Exeter this weekend so will should be able to get some ideas. The front hoop is in position so the hood can atleast be fitted if (more likely when) it starts raining. Robbie

Help I am fitting the frame to hold up the hood and would appear to have the front hoop section sorted. It lies flat on the rear deck and then swings up and over the roll-over bar and fits the 'dimples' in the hood (approximately 16" in front of the roll-over bar). The problem is the second section of the frame which looks as if it is located in the hood 'dimples' behind the roll-over bar. Does this hoop fix onto the front frame section? This would allow both sections to lie flat on the rear deck when not in use or should it have a separate fixing onto the bracket? Any help and photos would be much appreciated. Robbie

Stamped on the top of the offside headlight bracket so it can't be seen with the bonnet closed. Also got a plate rivited above the battery shelf made from a bit of straightened 22mm copper pipe (easy to stamp) with model, date and vin number. Robbie

James I have a 2B with just the standard bonnet louvers which I have use all summer without any overheating or boiling. The photo should give you an idea of what needs to be done. The plastic sheeting is available from any good stationary shop. Hope this helps Robbie

A little bit of hopefully constructive help. The 2B has now done 1,500 miles in its bog standard format, straight from the Sierra. Hopefully over the winter I shall have some spending money, Christmas and all that, the wife can normally be persuaded that it goes to a good cause, see pix. But what should I spend it on? 1. Stage 1 or 2 head (added benefit of allowing unleaded to be used) 2. Set of 'proper carbs' and ditch the ECU 3. Go for a scrap 'Redtop' and fork out for the exhaust & bell housing If there is a forth or even fifth option please let me known. All comments gratefully received. Robbie

Jim Thanks for that info, look as if I have a job for the weekend, oh well repairing the fence will have to wait yet again. I don't have 'lobo' shafts thus the drive shafts should pull straight out. The use of liberal doses ot WD 40 is questionable. If it is used the threads need to be cleaned as these bolts are one of the few places which you should use lock-tight. I haven't fitted the wedges due to the fact that things normally go wrong to the exponential of the items removed. Does everyone have this problem or am I using too small a hammer? :angry: Their must be an openning for someone to manufacture stainless pillars they are much better than the original. Robbie

Mike I have not fitted the wedges yet, job for the winter as you have to remove the drive shafts, bleed the brakes, etc. I got the wedges from RS Jigtec, special offer of £25 a pair at the Kent show. Its a pity they went bust as I also got a set of stainless steel screen pillars, again £25 and an exact match to the RH supplied ones. If you want to hav a chat send a PM Robbie

Mitch Many thanks for the info, will contact Dampertech. Robbie

Mitch Yet another 2B with the same problem, and the Zeemerides also squeak! :gdit: I have bought a set of the chamferred wedges to fit the rear hubs to try and help the grounding problem. Apart from hopefully correcting some of the skitishness is this a worhwile option? A few questions regarding the Gazshocks. 1. Can you use the RH supplied upper fixing and do they fit the hole in the swing arms? 2. Where did you get them? 3. What is the model number or lengths and spring rate? 4. And lastly, how much? Many thanks Robbie

Many thanks for all your posts. Short shift gear lever has been ordered from Rally Design for £11.50. You get a new set of bolts so will use threadlock this time. Will let you know the outcome when fitted. Robbie