enforcer

I'd advise caution when posting photos of your parts on the internet

Evenin' all There are some very familiar sentiments coming across here and I can see where everyone is coming from. For me the kit was always going to be a long term project, and a way of dealing with my demons. I like the fact that nothing fits perfectly and there is so much scope for builder innovation. Every part is a challenge - I have just fitted the nearside side panel after so much thought, consideration, research and tea. To achieve a good result is such a satisfying feeling and makes every part of the build worthwhile. All in all I have been impressed with the contents of the kit, but have junked a few bits and bobs. It's all about builder preference. Not for me the massive ironing board radiator mounted at 45 degrees together with the clumsy metal tubing. I could have used it for sure, I just preferred the look of the Coolman jobby. I have had hours and hours of pleasure so far from the build and have I hope many more to come. It will be the end of an era when Tricky finally goes. I don't blame him not wanting the dreadful bitchy kit car press to pick his work to pieces - I don't want to see that. I will take more comfort and satisfaction from completing my Robin Hood than I ever would with a more expensive kit where so little in comparison is left to the buider. Tricky may be not be the most politically correct human on the planet but fair play to him!

Yep, recognise that one. I've got one wired in and everything works fine. No idea what it is though! Some kind of suppressor?

I made up this bracket made from 2" angle with 7/16 UNF nuts welded to each side for the seat belt bolts, and 12mm high tensile bolts welded to the base. This now sits completely hidden in the tunnel and is bolted to the 2" angle under the floor with nylocs.

Ha! I wish!!!

Just seen these on ebay - I have identical seats, and am very pleased with them. You need to cut off the Rover brackets, and drill out the rivets holding the runners, which you can re-use once you make a set of new brackets for them. Perfect fit and good comfort/support . Well, as much as you can tell from sitting in a car which you can't drive!Rover 620 Seats

As a happy ESCII user I can tell you for 'defo' that the red wire does indeed go to a heater plate under the manifold.

Came from an Ebay company called 'Lowtension Ltd'. Picked it up for the outrageously low price of 5.99! Has a capacity of 1.2L so SVA ok and built in pump. just checked their site - don't have any for sale at the moment.

Just goes to show you've got to put your trust in Tricky and your fellow hoodies... I went out just to measure by how much I wanted the new folds to be narrower... after 2 hours and a change of mind the nearside panel is on perfectly without leaving the house! I had to snip off a small amount of the lower fold to clear the anti roll bar, then took Colin Usher's and Les Welsher's advice by bending the lower fold to about 60 degrees. This then made a gapless fit with the floor and it all screwed up nicely - not a ding in sight! Check out my bulge!

I would have gone down the packing route, Bill but the panel is so oversize at the front that it cannot even sit flush with the upper chassis rail without fouling on the anti roll bar! :gdit:

Go for it! I changed mine a few days ago. I would certainly recommend raising the rear end of the car to minimise oil leakage. Be wary that the oil seal has probably been in there since new and mine was an absolute pig to remove - had to drill several holes into it to break down the metal ring inside, before it would budge. You would need to be able to remove a tunnel side and the rear panel, though!

I have been umming and ahhing for weeks now over my side panels and the disastrous gaps between the folds and the chassis rails. I am seriously thinking about taking them to an engineering company and having the lower fold flattened, and re-folded to the fit the chassis. This would be far better and neater than messing around with spacers. I know the original fold just isn't going to disappear but at least it will be hidden under the car. Anyone been down this route?

Oh nuts. And I so liked the look of it! Has anyone fitted one of these Piper magic mushroom thingys and can recommend a model for a 2L Pinto? :boohoo:

And after ....

I have had to customise the lovely chrome air filter on my car as quite simply it does not fit under the bonnet! I have reduced the overall height of the filter by about half an inch. My question s how critical is the surface area of the opening to allow air in? Should I cut a hole in the top as well to compensate for the reduced volume, or will this be ok? Before

Thanks everyone for your help on this one, especially Bob who has had a good old rummage at my expense! Wrighty - Demon Tweeks was the answer, set of four for a couple of quid. Thanks.

Get that web site up to date!

You often see comment in various threads that the 2B/4 is just a re-badged Sub-K. In fact the two models had significantly different chassis at the rear.

Hmm, don't say I've got you stumped? I managed to find the website for the company that made the ammeter (EQUUS) and yes, they can supply replacement covers (filters as they call them). However they are based in the USA and the website states they do not ship outside USA and Canada. I have sent them a creepy email pleading for help. Is there really nowhere in the UK that sell these things?

Hi all. Tonight's challenge is to source green rubber bulb lens covers. I bought an ammeter off Ebay a while ago, and it came with interchangeable rubber coloured lens covers for the bulb, so you could match the look to your existing instruments. I have a nice row of 2" gauges to compliment the Sierra clocks, which have a nice green glow. I just need to source some green lens covers to make everything match up. I have tried Maplins, but they do not appear to stock. Anyone got any bright ideas? Ps I tried painting the bulbs Humbrol clear green, but the effect wasn't great. The single green cover I've got is spot on.

It's the 2B/05!

Hi No problem with mine - the front end is now fully loaded, and the lock nuts are half way up the thread. This gives a nice horizontal steering rack, and still leaves an inch or two of adjustment. DOn't want to teach you to suck eggs but have you got the components at the top in the right order? The other thing to check is that as far as I recall the threaded sleeve could slide up and down the shaft, locking in place once the bolt on the top of the hub was tightened. You might be able to dismantle, slide the threaded sleeve up a bit and hey presto. I am sure you could do this, although I'm not going to take mine apart to check!!!

Seen on Ebay, and nothing to do with me. What happened to this?Damaged Hood

Tricky Dickie not going then?

Here's a potential donor to get someone started - looks in good nick. Not a Pinto, but could get someone started!Sierra Donor