BigLee

Dave, I suppose I should but havn't got round to it. Although I did burn my hand once when a spanner welded itself to my baulkhead, so it keeps me on my toes. Cheers Lee

Up on legs bolted to chassis, although I have old S7 with something to bolt onto. Cheers Lee

Also try https://www.burtonpower.com/default.aspx Very quick delivery when I bought stuff from them. Ask for a free catalogue, but be careful, I want to spend a fortune!! Regards Lee

I also aim (but can't promise) to get to Newark. So if your still in need I could bring along. If I'm down your way in the near future ( I have family in Lichfield) I will advise and perhaps arrange something. Cheers Lee

Richard, I have one in my garage, that your welcome to. I would interested in spare wheel cover too. Where are you? I am in Bingley in Yorkshire. Probably the other side of the world to most! Send me an e-mail at lee@sandground.com Cheers Lee Just looked to see your in Worcester. Bit of a trek up here I'm afraid. I don't think I am going south for a while either. I may go to Chesire show in a fortnight, but still working on my car to get it running right.

Thanks for the advice. I'n nearly 100 % sure there is an old lucas volt reg fitted but I'll get the multimeter out and check. Gauge seems to work fine. It reads cold when cold and creeps up to 3 quarters then hovers a bit, then creeps a bit more. As i've said don't know yet if gauge is spot on and temp is getting too high. but seems to read just over 3 quarters at 91 degrees, which I would think is about OK as that is when temp switch kicks in. If it is just running "warm" I'll do some more investigation. Might be thermostat not opening fully, which I belive is supposed to be at about 83 degrees. If car runs fine and doesn't overheat I'll try different sender. Offer of white top sender to try appreciated Barry. I'll prob take you up on that, but away this weekend. Be in touch. Thanks for the support Lee

Any advice appreciated here. I have a Dolomite temp gauge fitted mated to a sierra temp sender. This is how I bought car. Gauge was reading nearly off the scale, so I thought I would improve matters by fitting RH Coolman radiator (thought It couldn't do any harm and must be more efficient than the single core rad fitted). Temp gauge still reads off scale So I guess sender not matched to gauge. Starts to kick out water from Coolman overflow pipe just as guage goes right off scale and no fan operating. I now have 91 degree temp switch installed in top hose which is now kicking in fan automatically and I have removed viscous fan from lump. Anyone suggest lower temperature switch? I have not had too much time to test or tinker so see if it stays cool, but is there any way that voltage from sender can be reduced or Dolomite temp guage can be calibrated to show mid point or just above when fan kicks in at 91 degrees. ( Assuming that it's staying cool) Do Ford make any other temp senders or can a resistor be installed from sender to gauge? Cheers Lee

Rizla in corking Hood Z I P S

Unfortunately I'm no engineer and do not have thread gauges etc. I have a sierra cologne lump that I wish to install a Smiths capillary oil guage into. This was previsouly fitted into a Dolly sprint and the adapter fitted that. The Ford switch is of much larger diameter. Does anyone know the correct size/thread type of this and where I may be able to get an adapter from. I have found Burtom Power https://www.burtonpower.com/default.aspx that do a few adapters. Any advice appreciated. Lee

Satirical melancholy ultimately gelatinous P U M P Lee

On the subject of Insurance I have just paid 171 with Heritage. This includes legal cover and breakdown cover!!. Roadsure wanted £199. Car is S7 with 2.8 lump. I have no NCB to use on this car and this includes commuting. I am 35 no accs/conv. Mileage is based on 3000 but is adjustable if there is more sun in the year than usual. I was surprised to learn that the chap that arranged it, I used to work with about 10 years ago. I'm not advertising, but if you want a quote from Heritage then ring Andrew on 0121 246 6067 he is happy to help and has a definate interest in kit cars. May see some Heritage stands at Kit Car shows this year as this is a market they are trying to expand into they tell me. Hope pinning tel no doesn't contravene any forum regulations.

I echo that as well Bob. In fact that was one of the reasons I bought a hood in the first place. (Apart from the fact I like the stainless). I have yet to get "involved" having only just purchased my old S7 and am spending some time getting it how I want it. But this forum is a godsend. I have been involved in other clubs previously, but none seem to as open as this one. Look forward to meeting you in the future. PS - Back on thread. I have rusty H/L bowls as well

I'm sure this will have been covered somewhere, but can't seem to find any photos. I have an older S7 that has been supplied with a hood and frame ( hood needs replacing) but can't seem to work out where the hood frame is supposed to attach to. Any pictures would be great.... I would like to check old hood with frame before using as a template and finding out that frame does not fit to car!! I would really like to use my car with hood attached, mainly for driving to work and leaving in car park. I am thinking of using a local retrimmers AutotrimUK in Bradford. Does anyone have any experience of these or any other hood makers in Yorkshire.

Thanks Simon, but i think sorted. I have another thread about Swirl Pots that explains, but after measuring pump flow and deemed old one past it's best a new pump made vast difference. Hesitation under acceleration purely down to fuel starvation. On a full tank superb.... Cheers Superb

Thanks for the tips chaps. Firstly my hesistation is definately fuel related. Filled tank up today to full and car was transformed. No heistation and pulls cleanly through rev range. What a difference. However also found out my tank leaks, but only when moving???. Think I've traced it to a dodgy seal at the sender. I'm therefore going to try and get a swirl pot tank from RH tomorrow. At least enquire as I'm also ordering a coolman rad. If not looks like I'm hunting for a pre built tank or fabricating one. But I'm not too handy in that department. As I've got my fuel pump and accumulator suspended very low underneath, I'd love to get a submerged pump in the tank. Any ideas??

Has anyone fitted an external swirl pot (reservoir) between tank and petrol pump to combat fitting an intenal swirl pot and/or internal fuel pump? I believe fuel starvation is is the cause of my problems. I have bought an S7 with 2.8 injection but I believe standard fuel tank. This seems to be just gravity fed to fuel pump. I was think of fitting in line resevoir to feed fuel pump (sort of secondary tank) but wondered if anyone had any good advice re will this work. If so recommended size of resevoir and if so can they be bought/manufactured. I'm thinking of using another XR4i fuel filter that is usually fitted after fuel pump but in line before pump These seem quite large canisters. I see RH will be selling swirl pot fitted tanks soon. Are they available yet and does anyone reckon it will fit S7?. Tank fitted seems to be home made box. All help and advice gratefully received.

I'm afraid answer is 6 FINISHED FILES ARE THE RESULT O F YEARS O F SCIENTI FIC STUDY COMBINED WITH THE EXPERIENCE O F YEARS

Thanks for the offer Paul, although already purchased now and fitted yesteday. Seems 300% better although still not perfect. friend is setting timing and mixture on exhaust gas analyser on Monday, so fingers crossed will be OK.

Well not coil. New coil fitted no difference. Next change is new fuel pump as not delivering quantities as specified.

There seems to be a lot relating to EFi on the board at the mo, so I thought I would ask for some guidance from anyone who may be able to help me. Unfortunately (or fortunately - depend which way you look at it) I have an XR4i setup in an S7 which is how I bought it. Car had not been running for a long time (possibly up to 2 years) when bought recently and although I now have it running I cannot get the thing to accelerate under load. Timing has been set, and mixture "twiddled" with. With mixture set rich the car will run, idle and rev, but under load there are the flat spots from hell making it undriveable. Seemes to miss or run out of fuel giving just seconds of nothing and then will cough and bark into life. However I noticed today that the coil is leaking oil, so got one on order for tomorrow. Fuel seems to be getting through, although the fuel pump is very noisy, and I understand that pressures in these manual injection systems are very high. Any suggestions gratefully received. Could the coil be causing this? Anyone have any experience with the k-jetronic fuel distributor? Also anyone know anything about converting these 2.8 V6's to carbs. I presume an early Granada inlet manifold and carb would drop on and the only thing I would need is a changed fuel pump??? I not TOO concerned about performance ( It should be adquate for me ) and I want simple.

Hi Barry. I probably spoke to you at Stafford. I was going to view my Hoodie that afternoon. Well I bought it. Actually I'm JUST down the road in Eldwick. Will contact again when roadworthy if that's OK. Thanks for the kinds word Jim. It seems that west of the Pennines is well looked after. Looking forward to the summer and getting out there. Lee

Hi all. I've just joined the club (£15 in the post) and recently bought a Hood (S7) , but was wondering what representation there is from Yorkshire. I spoke to Big Jim at the Stafford show, but never had a chance to linger long enough to get to know the ins and outs of who, what where etc... Trawling the board there seems a bit shout from the Kent area, but not a lot from the North East. I'm in Bradford - Anyone local to me?

Just to be different I have a 2.8V6 with twin cherry bombs installs by previous owner (one on each side). And yes it is very loud. I've just bought it and the cans point straight in from of the rear tyres, which I believe is a bad thing, so am going to fabricate a swept end. I don't know if this is going to be too loud to be bearable but as I'm only just getting it ready for it's MOT I havn't driven it yet. This forum seems a bit of a godsend and look forward to having some on-line chats.

Slightly different question, but thought this forum was suitable. Have just bought RH S7 with Dolly dials. Rev counter is set up for 4 cyclinder but engine is xr4i 6 cyl. Dees anyone know if these Smiths rev counters can be re-calibrated? Alternatively was thinking of obtaining Triumph 2500 or GT6 rev counter to replace as should already be compatible and should look the same. Any advice welcome.