theduck

2 hours ago, Mrbarry said:

 Unless the engine is force induced that is, go as big as hell then, all of the other crap is just irrelevant once you go that route

Only true for turbo charged engines, supercharged engines still respond to exhaust tuning in the same way an NA engine does.  

Slowly filling up my scrap wiring bin.

I think zachs blog is a must read for anyone considering building a mazda based zero.  His was one of the first mazda kits - https://zachsgbszero.blogspot.com/2012/10/

Second marks recommendation, is what I am using on the 100e. 

It's that time of the build where I want to start building a completely custom wiring harness for the 100e, but not old is there a lot of wiring in this video, I receive a very generous gift from a subscriber! First up though is making FIVE battery leads, 1 ground, 1 to the FIA battery cut off, 1 to the bulk head connector, 1 to the alternator and last but not least,  1 to the starter! With those out the way it is time to turn attention to the main fuse board, which leads on to the fancy start button set up I want to use! It really is never ending this stuff.
 

Perfect Blue Buildings - Counting Crows

If you want something you can pick up at Halfords, you cant go wrong with Autoglym.  I would use their Super Resin Polish as it isn't very abrasive and so is a good balance between a proper polish and a pre-wax cleaner. I'd then follow that with either extra gloss protection or HD wax.

Beyond that, I really like the Dodo Juice range, https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/dodo-juice Lime Prime is described as a pre-wax cleaner but really is a similar polish to Autoglyms SRP, which is why they also make Lime Prime Lite, which really is a pre wax cleaner.  They offer a range of colour specific hard and soft waxs, although all will work on any colour, they offer some benefits for their targeted colour.  Personally I prefer working with the hard wax and so would recommend banana armour for your car.

Depends on your skill set tbh. No off the shelf turbo manifolds so either need to get one made or make one yourself. Other than that it’s easy. 
 

Sell the webers and convert to efi - I have actually just removed an inlet that’s ideal for a kit car as it fits under the stock bonnet from my turbo pinto  

fit turbo and turbo manifold

use oil pressure sensor location for oil feed to turbo

oil return to sump 

use heater plumbing for turbo coolant feed if required

Plumb boost pipes to intake via intercooler

plumb in boost controller if wanted/needed

run 10-12psi and best part of 200bhp

oh, and not sure what the chemical Metal on the block is about, no need to modify anything on the block to turbo a pinto. Only thing you modify is the sump for an oil return. 

4 hours ago, blue said:

I doubt it’s coolant temp but worth checking if only to eliminate but popping and banging in exhaust is generally unburnt fuel in exhaust. 
Coolant would cause rich running but not unburnt so start on ign side of things.  Plugs coil etc. Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s as car warms it could just be something breaking down after a few mins of running not changing as coolant warms 

In my experience Pinto EFI ECU adds a LOT of fuel when it thinks the engine is cold, enough to cause incomplete combustion, loss of power, and unburnt fuel i the exhaust.  It could also cause fouling of the plugs which make the whole thing worse.

Think most people make their own.

Now, where does this bit go?

That's a question I see my self asking a lot over the coming weeks, so first thing first better formulate a plan! I need to work out where everything is going to live, and of course, the plan I had in my mind looks like it isn't going to work out. Still, in this weeks video we make lots of progress, the pedal box is in, the battery is in, the handbrake is half in, we make a CAD template for one of the two switch panels, and even make plans for plumbed in fire extinguisher!
 

Cant please all of the people all of the time.

No direct experience of those lights but would expect being from CBS they would be of reasonable quality.

Quick test for coolant sensor, onnce the engine is warm and showing the symptoms described, unplug the sensor and short the pins of the connector with something like a 2kohm resistor, that will emulate the signal from the sensor when the engine is hot.

Cork gasket should be all you need. 

Drain the fuel if you havent already.

If the car has been sat with fuel in the rubber lines, replace them.  Its not expensive to do and you'll probably want to when you drain the fuel and see the mess ethanol causes inside rubber lines.

Rotate the wheels, or even better put the car on axle stands

Sure I'll think of more but they are the only ones that havent been mentioned that I can think of off the top of my head.

It seems a very long time ago that I first drove down to view this car for it to only now be coming home, but that's because it was at my good friends Steve Walford Motorsports until now. Now that the major bits of work that Steve is helping with are done, it is time for the 100e Prefect to come home and for me to get started on fitting all the parts I have been gathering for it. In this video I set about tackling the boot lid fitment, which doesn't sound like it should be that difficult, but it was far more complicated then it should have been. Also get one of the kirkey seats fitted so can start working out where everything else is going to live!

With everything going on in the world at the moment just wanted to post and say that, for now, the intention is for this to still go ahead, but that will be keeping that under constant review.  Currently we have 2 months until the trip and there is just no predicting at the moment what state the world will be in.  One thing I will point out is please be aware of the cancellation terms for your accommodation.  I have checked mine and it is free cancellation up to 17 May at 23:59,  but please do be conscious of this, last thing I want is to get to a point where we have to cancel and you guys lose out on hotel costs.

I already work from home full time so no extra garage time here

I dont think there isn’t a lot of choice at the moment, I know there were supply issues of road legal track day tyres because of them not complying with eu regs. If you can get them I quite liked federal 595rs-r when I drove on them.

Agreed, they have posted a couple of updates this week though that made it sound like they were hoping to go ahead still.

Just see this on their facebook page

 

In this weeks video we build a new tube front end for the Ford 100e Prefect project car as unfortunately the last setup was removed before we bought the car. Plus side is we get to build it how we want! With that complete we finally have something we can mount the radiators too - Yes, for those who arent familiar with the previous car, we have 2 rads in this setup! - as well as get the bodywork on at least a little bit straighter than it was before 

With Ngk it’s higher the colder. with other brands it’s the other way round. 

Would have thought heat would be more of an issue in boosted setups than in a nitrous setup. Doesn’t the nitrous have a cooling effect? Might be worth seeing if you can speak to any of the drag racing guys who run nitrous, see if the 3 pronged plug thing is a common recommendation. 

If you are using copper plugs rather than fancy platinum etc, then in the NGK range just go for the next number up, so as an example a standard pinto plug is APR6FS but the next step colder is APR7FS