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steve in stockport

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Posts posted by steve in stockport

  1. Basically your sump has been shortened too much, ideally it should be 140mm/5.5 inches deep.

    Replacement sumps can be had for sub £150 from GBS or Ebay which is probably less than the cost of having a band welded into your sump to extend it.

    This might tie into your other problem of excess oil in the cam cover, oil being slow to return from the top of the engine, very low oil capacity and a higher capacity pump could easily lead to oil starvation on cornering or hard braking. 



  2. Looking at the pics of the plugs the carbs are badly out of balance. 

    For info when describing the cylinders 1 is the pulley end and 4 the gearbox end.

    Fit a new fuel filter as Nigel advised, finish the changes to the ignition system and get the timing set spot on. If you're feeling confident pull the carbs off and removed the float bowls. Check the floats are free to move and that they seal the fuel inlet needle valves and also check the fuel jets are all clear. MAYBE fit a fuel regulator as bike carbs only need about 2psi fuel pressure. I used a facet cube pump which gave 3psi and had no problems without a regulator. 

    The carbs then need setting up so all the butterflies open equally and at the same time and then balancing with a flow meter. The carb the throttle cable operates is the master and all the others should be set to match this one.

    I see you're in Southport so it's not a bad run for you down to Chester where you'll find AB garage and Adrian there is kit car friendly and very good with carbs including bike carbs.

    A B Garage

    Unit 167B Castle Close/Manor Lane, Deeside CH5 3QX
    01244 537701



  3. Bri,

    S&J motors at Chorley has all that kind of stuff and usually exhibits at Stoneleigh, Tatton Park etc.

    Don't think he has an internet presence but Mitch or maybe Big Jim will have his contact details, only problem is Mitch is away at the moment.


    Found his number on the NW RHOCaR web page, it's 01257 262881 and he's in Whittle le Woods


  4. Sold my kit in September 2016 and bought myself a 2.5 Z4 the following week and haven't regretted it once.


    Ideally the one to go for is the 3.0 but all it gets you is 0-60 half a second quicker at 5.9, a few miles an hour more at the wrong side of 150mph which you probably wont see over here anyway and a six speed box rather than a five to get the fuel economy back.

    The 2.5 you're looking at comes with 192bhp, does 0-60 in 6.4 seconds, tops out at 150mph and gives mid to high 20's mpg around town and high 30's cruising at the legal limit. Then there's things like doors, heater, air-con, radio, cruise control, decent seating- heated and memory if you get the right spec car, a spacious boot and an electric roof. Facelift models post 2006 come with a different engine with higher outputs which are about 220 for the 2.5 and 260 for the 3.0.


    Things to look out for are the roof motor failing - it can get flooded in it's usual location but there are people who will revive the motor and relocate it to the boot for 80 quid. VANOS seals on the engine which alter the cam timing are made of the wrong material and lead to the engine feeling flat below 4000rpm, again these can be done relatively cheaply to restore full performance with gains of up to 30% depending on how badly worn the originals are. Cam cover gasket leaking due to blocked crank case ventilation if only used on short journeys - this will get done with the VANOS seals but add in a new CCV valve too. Search for the Zed Shed on facebook for repairs to the above.


    Wheels and tyres are something to look at too, the run flat tyres make the car tramline like mad and ruin the who driving experience, if it still has run flats the best thing you can do is ditch them and fit normal tyres, I have fitted Goodyear Eagle F1's on mine which have transformed how it feels on our crap roads, they work well and suit my driving style.

    Early Z4s came with 17" alloys which with 225/45 normal tyres give a good ride but a lot of owners seem intent on ruining the ride for looks by fitting 18s or 19s with rubber bands for tyres - not for me thanks.

    Parts are cheap too as they are all 3 series based.


    To be honest and I hope you don't take this the wrong way, for someone who has spent years throwing money at a kit that still doesn't work or run properly if someone is offering to swap you a mint Z4 for your kit I would bite their hand off without any hesitation.

  5. Hi Bob, a quick Google shows that the early electronic dizzys had a male drive gear with a tongue that fit's into a slot on a female oil pump. Later engines have a female drive gear that fits onto the tongue on a male oil pump.


    Just Google rover v8 female distributor

  6. Have a look at the thread in the link below




    Alternatively used the advanced search function, the cog icon next to the search tab at the top right of the page, and use axle as the subject and chris n as the author and you'll find loads of threads/info.


    The fifth link was a bodge which will either rip out of the tub or break the diff casing which are now almost impossible to get hold of.

  7. Hi Steve

    don't know how you've plumbed up your cooling system but here's how I did mine which would run at 80 - 85 degrees all day long and only rise to 90ish when sat in traffic until the fan cut in.


    Bottom hose from radiator to back of the water pump, but I also Tee'd the 25mm pipe from the inlet manifold into the bottom hose.


    The 8mm spigot on the inlet had a short piece of hose with a blanking plug to use as a bleed point when filling the system.


    Top hose went from the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator and Tee'd into this was the turbo cooling loop which went from the spigot on the stat housing, into the top of the turbo, out of the bottom and into the top hose near the rad.


    I ditched all the heater parts from the rear of the head, fitted core pugs to the holes where possible and then a 10mm aluminium plate with the metallised gasket bolted on to cover the whole of the area.


    Where is your intercooler mounted, is it in front of the rad? Could there be some heat transference to the rad or is it possibly blocking the air flow through the rad?


    Why have you removed the thermostat, I ran mine with the 82 degree version. Water pumps are also another problem area on VX engines, some of the aftermarket ones just don't seem to be able to do the job for some reason.

  8. Looks like a 2B, maybe a sliding pillar that's had a wishbone conversion. The wishbone mounts aren't the Robin Hood box section and the top wishbone geometry is different.

    Headlight mount also looks like either a sliding pillar or a 2B/04 set up.

  9. Dan, sounds to me that at the moment you are running a traditional old style with an overflow pipe from your pressurised filler cap going to a non-pressurised expansion tank

    To go to a more modern style system with a pressurised header tank I would look at getting a tank from VW group car, a Renault Clio or a rover 25. They usually have one large diameter outlet which you need to T into your bottom hose and one small diameter inlet which you can connect to the 10mm outlet of your rad, or maybe the one from the water rail or the one currently feeding your expansion tank. Some header tanks have more than one small inlet so you could use more than one of these pipes as in many modern systems. You'll need to swap your current pressure cap for a blank cap and have the pressure cap on the header tank.

    The header tank needs to be the highest part of the system to allow the system to self bleed the air out and should have enough space above the max mark to allow the water in the system to expand when fully up to temp without overflowing. Water should only come past the pressure cap if you have over filled the system or you've cooked the engine and it's boiling over.

    • Like 1
  10. Ivan, I've sent you a message with my PayPal email address. Once payment received I'll post the mug out, can you add your address in the notes on PayPal or in reply to the message I've sent.


    Two greens left folks.


    Can one of the committee send me a PayPal address so I can forward any money from these three mugs on to you? Thanks

  11. I have the last three mugs from the batch ordered in 2008 sat in packaging on a shelf in the garage, one with a yellow car and two with green.

    I'll send them out for £5.00 each and then forward the money to the club.


    Send me a message with your preferred colour and for my paypal address. Send the money as a friends and family payment and put mug in there somewhere.


    The mugs are as in the first post in the link below.



  12. Cossie's might be able to handle a lot of power but that ain't a Cossie YB it's a zetec with a turbo conversion so the power claim is probably pie in the sky and that then makes you question all the other claims in the ad.

    One of the tyres looks like a Toyo Proxes T1R which wouldn't be up to the demands either.

  13. Can't see very well from the picture but the oil pressure sender is usually in that area. If there's no sender then fitting one should do the trick, if there is a sender there are some other threaded holes in that location that have bungs in which may have been removed.

  14. It may be ok but as their fans range from £19.95 - £34.95 it probably won't be anywhere near as effective as one from the brand leaders that are considerably more.

    I used a comex high power from Revotec which was £80 for a 10" fan but it was well worth the money. It cooled mine from 95 to below 88 degrees in a couple of minutes.

  15. Have you downloaded the emerald instructions?

    There should only be two connections from the ECU into the main loom of the car and that is a 12v+ through the ignition switch and starter relay if you have one fitted and a permanent 12v+ supply so that the ECU can do some 'housekeeping' as emerald put it after the ignition is off.

    All the rest of the ecu connections are via the emerald ecu/engine loom. Do you have this or is the loom something that GBS sell that is a full chassis and engine loom?

    The emerald can only run sequential injection if you have a cam phase sensor fitted, otherwise you need to be set for batched injection.

  16. Before you go chucking more and more money at something that may not even be a problem fill it full of coolant, 1/4 - 1/3 fill the expansion tank, fit the rad cap and take it for a decent drive.

    If it has any trapped air ticking over on the drive won't really shift it like a decent drive will. Keep an eye on the gauges and if everything operates as it should let it cool down and the following day check the levels etc and top up if necessary. If it takes a lot of water you may well have a problem, but a small top up isn't unheard of while the thing finds it's own level. Now repeat the decent drive and cooling process and level checks.

    By a decent drive I mean about 50 miles not just around the local village, the expansion tank will get warm/hot as it will fill with hot coolant as it expands but this should get sucked back into the radiator as it cools.


    You have got the correct cap with the return valve as found on Capris and Cortinas haven't you?


    And if that rad fan is one of the cheap 80 watt things that needs changing too as they're not worth the plastic they're made from, a decent fan from a good maker will set you back around £80 - £100 but is a world away from the cheap ones.


    Getting the carbs and ignition tuned will help too, if it's running lean it will be running hotter than normal. Once you know you have a sound cooling system you should only ever have to add a drop of water to the expansion bottle every now and again if the level in it drops.

  17. As a rough guide side repeaters became a legal requirement from E reg on wards. Not necessary for them to be on the front wings, so long as they satisfy the angles of vision from the rear they can be anywhere on the side up to 2.3m from the front of the vehicle.

    I know a guy who fixed a strip of LEDs to the inside of the leading edges of the back wheel arches on a Dax Rush, this just met the distance reg, met the angles of visibility and passed the IVA test. Not surprisingly they fell off later and got replaced by some in a more conventional location.

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