mellors55

I think that is supposed to be used as a restrictor that fits into the neck of the fuel filler so that you can only get in an unleaded nozzle.

You will need some method of restriction for SVA if you are registering your SS as a new car

John

I caught mine and got a small split in it. I took the sump off and brazed it up - It's been like that for 3 years now.

I also changed mine from the one supplied by RH - I can't remember the colours or part numbers but it now reads a little bit high rather than a very lot high. It was well documented on here (around early 2005)

I drilled a hole in the tray to accept the spigot - provides a bit of support for the tank. However the header tank does need to be as high as possible.

I had to slightly enlarge the hole to accomodate the pipe.

John Mellors

The drivers side is for the speedo drive cable and the passenger side is for the speedo drive gear (to set the speedo drive gear ratio) - you should have recieved this with your kit along with a plug to go on top of the drive gear.

John Mellors

I live close to J28 - I have a super spec but many of the problems are the same

John

Mine passed SVA (just) back in 2005 with the RHS Fuelparts sensor (the part number on mine was for a Ford). But it would not pass the first MOT that I have just had done. It was only just over the limit but still a fail. I fitted an NTK that is specifically for the Rover engine and it passed easily. I got mine from the local motor factors (£45ish)

John

I am sure that they don't do any Super spec chassis any more (visited factory on Saturday)

If you are interested in looking at one and having a talk about the numerous problems, I work in Staveley and live near Alfreton. I finished my SS in 05 after a 12 month build.

I will be putting it away for the winter at the end of the month

John

Has anyone tried to find direct replacements for the original black, headlamp wiper type blades that were fitted as originals on the superspec. Mine are getting a bit worn and I want to try to avoid replacing the arms.

I think that the arms are modified sierra ones. The ends have been altered by RH to accept the black headlamp type wiper blades.

I'm not sure. My gearbox was moving far enough so that it hit the stainless tunnel cover on fast right hand corners. There was a gap of about 3mm when stationery. You could try running the car on the road with the tunnel cover removed and your passenger could see how far your gearbox moves. I would unbolt your brace from one end before doing this. I think the big problem is when you make quick get aways.

I am also a bit worried about my first test - it is due next June. I think I might have problems with the lambda reading being too high (or is it low). I only just got through SVA with this.

If I have fully understood your gearbox selector mod modification you have effectively bolted the gearbox to the chassis rail. I think that this might cause some problems when running as the gearbox moves quite a bit relative to the chassis. If you bolt them up solid you try to stop this movement and something has to give!

My oil filter passed SVA with no problems. The exhaust tail pipes need some form of trim to give a rolled edge or they will fail. The front edge of the exhaust cover also needs a trim over it. Mine got through with the plastic one supplied but I think that some have failed because they will melt. The biggest problem most people are having is the lambda reading being too high (assuming that you have the Rover engine). There are all sorts of tips to solve this that have been posted over the past couple of years. I was lucky, mine got through with the supplied parts but I spent a lot of time making sure there were no air leaks and that the lambda was properly earthed.

I had this problem many years ago with a mini marcos with SU carbs and no room for the air intake heater from the exhaust.

Hot water pipes will not totally cure the problem because these do not get hot enough until the car has been run a few miles by which time it will have frozen up and stopped.

Electrical heaters are possible, I suppose, but over complicated, in my opinion.

The best cure is to duct warm air from around the exhaust. I think that this will work even with exhaust bandage around it. You only need to get a few degrees warmer to stop this from happening.

Yes, I did. But the examiner twisted them vertical to view the required area.

John

Mine did not fit either.

I kept trimming down the sides with a guillotine until they would just fit in. It is difficult to measure accurately because of the radius of the tubes. Fit them before painting or you will scratch all the paint off.

John

After quite a lot of grief trying to get the replacement spring ratings right on my superspec, I measured mine and the fronts are 380lb per inch

The rears on the superspec are 280 by the way

Don't know what the diameter is but my replacements are 1.9"

John

What is the rating for the blue coilsprings on the front of a superspec?

 

And the green springs on the rear of a lightweight?

 

And, what diameter are they off top of your heads? 1.9 or 2.25"

 

cheers

 

Simon

Due to a change to Protech shocks on my Super Spec.

one pair front zeemerides 40 quid

one pair rear zeemerides 40 quid

or both pairs for 75 quid

Call me on

01773 874587

THEY HAVE BEEN ON THE CAR A FEW MONTHS AND HAVE DONE LESS THAN 1000 MILES .

BUSHES APPEAR TO BE OK AND THERE IS NO CORROSION

JOHN

I have replaced my Zimmers with Protec's on my SS.

I was at first struggling to find the correct spring rate (I started with 300 all round but the front was very low even after moving the top mountings out). So I measured the rating of the springs on the Zimmers I had taken off and found them to be 380 on the front and 280 on the back.

So I have settled for 400 on the front and 300 on the back and I can now adjust ride height without having to screw the spring pans up too tight.

John

I have left the vanes in the pump and fitted the union that was supplied by RH but I cut it part way up and brazed it back together again at an angle (after carefully checking which way and at what angle the union needed altering). You can do the checking by creating a bit of extra clearance by jacking up that side of the engine slightly while you trial fit the union. I have done 2500 miles with this with no problems so far.

Daren and family

So sorry to hear your sad news.

Our thoughts are with you.

John Jane Mark and Heidi (Ogston)

I am seriously thinking about replacing the standard Zimmerframe coilovers on my Super Spec for something with higher spring rates and dampers that work!!

Can anyone suggest:

What spring rates I will need (car weighs about 790 kilos - not sure about front /rear split)

What make are the best performance/cost compromise for road use.

What mods do I need for the mountings (The bottom rear mounting is a single hole through the borrom of the standard sierra arm at present)

John

I filled my gearbox with 'MT75' gearbox oil from my local motor factors and not the EP90 that RH supplied. I'm not sure what the difference is but I did'nt fancy taking any chances.

John

I did the same as Wick12 and did not cut the cable but made use of the original eyelet. I also welded a support bracket onto the side of the pedal and put a bolt and nylock through so that the cable end can give a straight pull as the pedal rotates. The clutch feels fine but I also increased the length of the clutch and brake pedal to bring them closer to the floor by about 30mm to bring them closer to the ball of my foot and further away from the steering UJ. The cable has shown no problems in the 900 miles I have done so far.

John

I covered the underside of mine with carpet that I shaped with a heatgun. I asked before the test and he said it was advisable. Try ringing your SVA centre for clarification.

John

Mystery solved - that was me!!

I work at the secondary school on the main road in Staveley.

I'll keep an eye open for you - I was a bit late that day - usually about 8.00 ish

John