mellors55

I think that is supposed to be used as a restrictor that fits into the neck of the fuel filler so that you can only get in an unleaded nozzle. You will need some method of restriction for SVA if you are registering your SS as a new car John

I caught mine and got a small split in it. I took the sump off and brazed it up - It's been like that for 3 years now.

I also changed mine from the one supplied by RH - I can't remember the colours or part numbers but it now reads a little bit high rather than a very lot high. It was well documented on here (around early 2005)

I drilled a hole in the tray to accept the spigot - provides a bit of support for the tank. However the header tank does need to be as high as possible. I had to slightly enlarge the hole to accomodate the pipe. John Mellors

The drivers side is for the speedo drive cable and the passenger side is for the speedo drive gear (to set the speedo drive gear ratio) - you should have recieved this with your kit along with a plug to go on top of the drive gear. John Mellors

I live close to J28 - I have a super spec but many of the problems are the same John

Mine passed SVA (just) back in 2005 with the RHS Fuelparts sensor (the part number on mine was for a Ford). But it would not pass the first MOT that I have just had done. It was only just over the limit but still a fail. I fitted an NTK that is specifically for the Rover engine and it passed easily. I got mine from the local motor factors (£45ish) John

I am sure that they don't do any Super spec chassis any more (visited factory on Saturday) If you are interested in looking at one and having a talk about the numerous problems, I work in Staveley and live near Alfreton. I finished my SS in 05 after a 12 month build. I will be putting it away for the winter at the end of the month John

Has anyone tried to find direct replacements for the original black, headlamp wiper type blades that were fitted as originals on the superspec. Mine are getting a bit worn and I want to try to avoid replacing the arms. I think that the arms are modified sierra ones. The ends have been altered by RH to accept the black headlamp type wiper blades.

I'm not sure. My gearbox was moving far enough so that it hit the stainless tunnel cover on fast right hand corners. There was a gap of about 3mm when stationery. You could try running the car on the road with the tunnel cover removed and your passenger could see how far your gearbox moves. I would unbolt your brace from one end before doing this. I think the big problem is when you make quick get aways.

I am also a bit worried about my first test - it is due next June. I think I might have problems with the lambda reading being too high (or is it low). I only just got through SVA with this. If I have fully understood your gearbox selector mod modification you have effectively bolted the gearbox to the chassis rail. I think that this might cause some problems when running as the gearbox moves quite a bit relative to the chassis. If you bolt them up solid you try to stop this movement and something has to give!

My oil filter passed SVA with no problems. The exhaust tail pipes need some form of trim to give a rolled edge or they will fail. The front edge of the exhaust cover also needs a trim over it. Mine got through with the plastic one supplied but I think that some have failed because they will melt. The biggest problem most people are having is the lambda reading being too high (assuming that you have the Rover engine). There are all sorts of tips to solve this that have been posted over the past couple of years. I was lucky, mine got through with the supplied parts but I spent a lot of time making sure there were no air leaks and that the lambda was properly earthed.

I had this problem many years ago with a mini marcos with SU carbs and no room for the air intake heater from the exhaust. Hot water pipes will not totally cure the problem because these do not get hot enough until the car has been run a few miles by which time it will have frozen up and stopped. Electrical heaters are possible, I suppose, but over complicated, in my opinion. The best cure is to duct warm air from around the exhaust. I think that this will work even with exhaust bandage around it. You only need to get a few degrees warmer to stop this from happening.

Yes, I did. But the examiner twisted them vertical to view the required area. John

Mine did not fit either. I kept trimming down the sides with a guillotine until they would just fit in. It is difficult to measure accurately because of the radius of the tubes. Fit them before painting or you will scratch all the paint off. John