mellors55

If that was a black and stainless super spec, then it was me. What day & time. Ive been using mine to go to work in Staveley for most days over the past two weeks. John

I think that part number 305 (bumper overrider beading @ .65p per M) from Woolies (www.woolies-trim.co.uk) listed under wing piping, is what you are looking for. I used it on some sharp edges under the bonnet an dash. I did not need it on the bonnet louvres. You will need to glue it on though - I used super glue every 100mm or so. John

Mine is also a 0258003713 and, gues what, my reading was 1.02 at SVA. I gather that this is the wrong type of sensor but I am not sure that I understand why. Can anybody explain this in plain English or is it simpler to use the proper replacement come possible fail time at the first MOT. John

My lambda reading was too high when I took my car for a pre-SVA brake and emissions test at my local garage. A good earth from the first lambda connector direct back to the battery appeared to correct this (it passed SVA). Does your seat/seat belt / handbrake bracket go right across the car - some of the early ones as supplied only went part way across the floor. I had no problems with the supplied bracket that went all the way across the floor. But it is not taking the handbrake load (I put mine on top of the central tunnel) Not a bad result - best of luck on the re-test John

Have you tried to use the switch in the circuit to the fan control relay? If it works all the time whatever the temp of the water then it probably needs replacing. Have you measured the resistance with a multimeter? What is the reading? Mine worked OK but was a little temperamental until I changed the relay to a different one - same sort - as supplied by RH John

You could check the fuel pipe return by removing it from the tank and watching for fuel. I forget to earth the ECU the first try, but neither the fuel pump nor the throttle body energised. I am sure that mine will start without the preheater working (fuse remobed) so you perhaps only need to check the wiring on the sensor part. Mine coughed and spluttered for quite a while after it first fired up. John

Dredd Have you got some photos of the thrust bearing adaption. Or can you explain what has been done? Do you have any ideas what we can do to improve matters? John

Sounds like you may also have stripped the worm in the box that drives the pinion. If I understand a previous thread the worm will drive a number of different size pinions but needs changing if you greatly alter the size of the pinion. Mine works fine with both the original as supplied by RH and the one detailed on another thread to make the speedo more accurate. What diameter is your stripped pinion - it might be outside of the sizes that the worm will accept. John

final one

And another

Finally on the road Photo should be attached John

I have a good one on CD - official Rover I think It covers a range of models including 800, and 200 the wiring diagrams are much better than Haynes It cost a few quid off the net I can send you a copy if you let me have your details John

Wick If you have the opportunity, I would cut down the width of the throttle pedal. I found that I pressed both the brake and the throttle under braking (not nice). I have now cut off the brake side of the throttle to make more clearance and it works much better. It passed SVA like that mind. I will get back to you with details about the handbrake later - I will have to lift the carpet and remind myself what I did. John

I panicked and decided to fix the handbrake to the top of the tunnel top. It is possible if you make the decision before you fit the petrol tank. It did involve a fair bit of extra work but makes a neater job underneath, is quite a bit stronger and is much easier to reach. In hindsight i think it would have passed SVA with the handbrake on the floor!!! I can provide you with more details if you want to go that route. John

Wick12 I had exactly the same problem with the same company but in the event managed to get my number in time to avoid losing my premium. After a long 'conversation' along similar lines to the one you had I was beginning to get rather heated. The girl assured me that she rarely had the same converstaion with anyone else, that these were their normal trading terms and that they had been explained to me in full when I took out the policy, and that all insurance companies were required to do the same. I eventually managed to get them (reluctantly) to agree to an understanding that I could put the car on 'Laid up' cover (cannot be driven) without any loss of premium. But this has to be for a minimum of 30 days. She was less than cooperative to say the least. I will be seeking another company on renewal. John

Martin To answer your questions. I booked my SVA about a month ago because I was going on holiday. I decided to pay extra and take it on a Saturday (£225) and I could therefore more or less pick when I wanted to take it. The seat belt top mounts only had nut covers on bolt heads ( the tester at Nottingham said he was happy with this because the brackets can rotate out of the way if impacted. He did say that some testers failed cars without full plastic covers (get them secondhand off a scrapper) I already knew that he took this view because I visited the centre a few weeks ago and viewed another RH being tested by the same bloke (again thanks to Derek Overfield for letting me see his car being tested)- I would recommend everyone to do this before SVA - it saved me loads of time doing things that didn't need doing and money - a retest fee. I did fit the windscreen but I had modified the sweep of the wipers. I am not sure he was too bothered about this. He thought that the heaters worked well??? I only had a short drive to the test station (10 miles) but I might have hired a trailer if the weather forecast had been bad. Hope that helps - contact me again if you have any more questions. John

I fitted mine in that position (not verticle) and they passed SVA. The tester verified that they are not part of the test but he did check that they were wired from the gearbox (or that there was a warning light I assume)

What a great feeling! My Super Spec has passed first time at Nottingham. It would not have happened without the help of posts on this forum and in particular Neal (Friar)for loads of advice, Derek Overfield for loan of steering wheel cover and Dredd for info about the replacement speedo drive gear (tested a consistant 2 MPH over with 3.9 diff) The tester was very understanding and the only things that bothered him were the bare positive battery post (non fail item) - I wrapped it in tape. He was a bit concerned with the tightish bend on the rear blake flexies that go to the rear calipers. I agreed and will change them for aeroquips later. My Non turbo car weighed in at 790 kilos (screen fitted) and the exhaust test was 91db. My headlight switch stopped working half way through the test but he had already seen them working OK so he was happy. I think I will need to fit relays for the main and dip headlights - has everyone else done this? None are shown on the wiring diagram and none were supplied for this purpose. I will be phoning Richard on Monday!! Also - Has anyone rewired the tacho as per recent newsletter- does it work now? John

They are the ones that I used. They will need bending to fit across the corner You can put one set of screws behind the rear mudguard and the other set from the underneath into the return on the back panel

A lot of the connectors on the 2 white connector blocks coming from the engine loom- near the large ECU connector- are not used. The connections for those that are used are detailed on the wiring loom. There was a thread on here a few weeks ago about which wires go where. Some wires on the wiring loom are also redundant - I started my wiring by identifying all the wire colours against the wiring diagram and labelling them with masking tape. This identified the redundant ones - I used some of these later for other purposes. You do add alot of extra wires and fuses - these are detailed in the wiring diagram if you can find them. Always keep track on what coloured wires you use - I didn't and had to do this later. Best of luck John

On my wiring diagram there is a mention but you have to look hard. One is refered to as multiplug 1 (I don't think there is a mention of multiplug 2) It is in the mid bottom of the wiring diagram when refering to the connections to the ECU, Lambda and fuel pump. There is also a mention at the top under the letter "G" of "wiring". There may be others that I have forgotten about. You will know which is which by the colour of the wires. You may not believe it now but you will get it to work - eventually. There is no mention of the wiring for the hazards unless Richard has added this later. Also I couldn't understand Richard's wiring for the wipers so I made that up myself with help from the forum and from various motor manuals and, in the end by dismantling the wiper motor and switch. They will work 2 speed and self park with the switch supplied but you will need to stick at it. Best of luck John

Derek I'm sure I recognise that good looking bloke in the red coat!!! John

All the best Neal Great to hear from you I'll update you on my SS progress when your feeling up to it. John

I wondered why I had 2 exhaust restrictors!! Mystery solved. Is this on the video or have I missed it?

Mine has a standard Sierra disc braked rear axle (3.9 diff). Some have drum brakes. I have a photo somewhere - let me know and I'll email it direct to you. John