agent_zed

thanks for the reply, thats what i was thinking that it must be difficult to cut without shattering the toughened glass of side windows. I just dont understand how they do it on the banhams or is it done proffesionally for the kit?

Hi i was wondering if anyone knows how to cut window glass. I remember the banham TT copy used the metro windows but somehow reshaped them and i never found out how. Is it just the side windows that can be cut or can laminated windscreen be cut too?

ive used a flat bar welded across the subframe mounting (where the big rubber bush sits) i think it is 4 or 5 mm by about 30mm mild steel. i then used a rubber cotton reel bush. Its seems strong enough so far and its the only thing holding the exhaust on my car .

iam sure i remember seeing the RH filler cap in mandp.com a few years back for around £25 but i can't find it now on the website. I'll have a look in the cataloge if i can find it as they may still do them. The indicators are cheap there also. My mirrors cost £10 each and got me through SVA... just a thought. HTH

since it was a one-off job i just made a spanner to fit, so you still get to use the angle grinder

Hi i assume you have a 2b. There are a few pics of my car on this thread (quite far down the page) which hopefully show you where my lights are in relation to the nose cone.

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...&hl=scuttle

If you could post some pics of the problem it may help. Are the lights the same as on my pics? Just wondering if they are different as they may sit in a different place. One last thought, are the light units in the correct way up ? Hope this helps.

Hi,

 

I can't find it now, but somewhere on this site there are pictures of a nosecone with an aluminium frame at the back, the frame was shaped to match the bonnet profile. The nose cone was fastened to the frame to pull it into shape and make the bonnet fit.

 

I think the pictures might be in the garage section.

 

Cheers

Nige

I think it may be mine the pics are on this thread if they are any help

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...&hl=scuttle

hope this helps

Hi, i noticed the other day that the new "mini" (those giant cars that are bigger than most small cars) have changed the rear suspension as i can now see it poking out underneath. Does anyone know why they changed it? sorry iam that geeky that it intrigues me

Take it back!!! if there are that many faults after 3 years it is unlikely to get better. My brothers toyota celica's alloys corroded so they gave him some brand new ones, a year later they corroded so new ones again, they corroded a year later so they eventually gave him a £600 after market set for free and let him keep the old ones. Thats service. (although admittidly there shouldn't be a problem to begin with). good luck whatever your decision.

Hi,

just thought i'd say that i didn't have much problem passing with a windscreen on. only had to add extra rubber to the supports as they aren't rounded enough. as for a heater/demister i made mine by boxing in the seirra matrix and using half of the sierra fan unit (which is still pretty powerful). hope that helps.

Yeah ubuntu is cool, i use Kubuntu though which uses a different display (KDE) to ubuntu, which is more like windows. I also have it dual boot on my laptop with xp. There are loads of useful free stuff in linux that you don't get in windows. Open Office which comes bundled with most linux distros is pretty good and you won't notice much difference to word excel etc as they almost look identical, don't know how they get away with it

Ubuntu and Kubuntu seem to be one of the best to get into it as they have good support and are pretty simple to start using.

It is certainly useful to keep a live boot disc anyway as if windows goes wrong you can load linux up and get to your files (this is why i started using linux)

HTH

Thanks all,

i guess its going to be a good few hours under the car by the sound of it oh well i guess its all part of the fun of of kit car.

cheers

Hi, my diff is leaking oil from the front where the prop shaft is connected. Can i use one of the products for rejuvenating the rubber seals, ive only found one for engine oil can it be used in the diff ?

how difficult is that seal to replace if the seal rejuvinator doesn't work ?

thanks

maplins do plastic p clips if you have a local shop. 100 for about £3.

cheers

On my 2b i shortened my type9 gearstick by sawing a section out and rewelding the threaded bit back on. Seems to be holding so far. Just have to remember to weld it so the thread is in the correct position so it tightens up nicely on the knob. Hope that helps

If you have a stainless chassis you will need to weld it with stainless wire and argon gas (at least thats how i made by ss fuel tank). I think this is mainly so it doesn't rust from standard weld wire. If it is mild steel most garages should be able to sort that i would think.

If it was my car i would try and get it welded and then strap it so some other parts to increase the strength, although i don't have the same chassis so not sure how weak this point is in general.

hope that helps.

hi just had a look on my 2b and although it was pretty dark under there i think mine are about level. This is probably because iam running it a bit high on the back. Its not difficult to change the rear height you just have to redrill a hole in the top cup that holds the spring and move it down a bit. If it is a standard subframe then there is little chance that it is incorrect as the wishbones and diff mounting are set and it will just be a case of how high you want the back end. HTH

I just used the 4mm machine screws and nuts that RH supplied. I used some plastic p-clips from maplins, as they were about £3 for 100 or so, to hold the brake pipe and some pieces of aluminium shaped to hold the fuel line and return. The bolt heads are only 3mm or so and don't show on mine as i have sponge and then leather cloth covering them.

hope that helps.

I had a fail on these nuts so i covered them with squash balls cut cut 2 holes one in each side that matched the diameter of the wishbone tube and balljoint then slit them so i could wrap them round and just put loads of silicone inside to stick them on. hope that helps

Well done, cool to see another completely yellow one same as mine

if it isn't broke don't fix it haven't used vista but from what ive heard it requires a lot of ram to run the operating system graphics and if you have anything remotely dodgy it will helpfully delete it without asking, so no more "free" software.

I guess it depends whether you want the latest operating system now or are willing to wait until all problems are found. similar to a new model of car, wait a couple of years and they will have found most of the teething problems, but then you won't be the first person in the street to have a shinny new toy .

best of luck either way...

cheers for that saved me jacking up the car to have a look. After reading a few posts about exploding props i started thinking about mine. Thanks

Hi, i can only remember seeing one grease nipple on the joints on my propshaft (one each end). Am i correct, its a bit difficult to have a quick look under as it is so low and i can't remember greasing 2 each end. Its a standard rh 2b prop (metal joints ). thanks

I"ve herd that it fits the narrowest of stairs ??????

maybe iam sad but that made me laugh....

Thanks for all the replies, ive gone with just cutting it without extra capacity. so hopefully this afternoon she will be back on the road

cheers