Andy Spencer

Thanks all very much - Chris you have a PM. Andy

As my outer CV joints have decided to self destruct, I need 2 driveshafts for a drum brake setup (ie the ones that bolt on at the brake backplate, not on the diff, mine is a 1.6). Any help welcomed - local scrappies are bare of early Sierras - or do you know anywhere that supplies reconditioned ones? Thanks! Hate the car being off the road! Andy

You are absolutely right - I have a 1.6 and blocked it off. It runs really badly if you dont - it just sucks excess air in. The flap valve just used the suction from the manifold to open/ close it but there was never any air flow through it.

The torx bolts have about 7 or 8 'splines' but the spline bolt has a lot more, at least 12 (hope that makes sense!!!!). Have a look at a 'Torx T55' socket driver in a tool shop and you'll soon see the difference. The bolts are totally interchangeable - I replaced the spline bolts on mine with torx bolts and so far, so good (5k miles). Much better as you don't have to take the rocker cover off again after running it for 15 mins. Andy

Joni I've got a Twin Choke Weber 28/30 DFTH in the garage - ideal for a 1.6. You are welcome to it if you want to come and pick it up or I can post it for a few quid. It works / runs fine. Electric choke but you don't really need a choke on it anyway. Only reason I swapped it was that I got a new one for £15 off ebay! PM me if you want it. Andy

Can't help on the filler pipe but I can't stop my fuel gauge sender unit leaking - I've tried a Ford seal, cork, also now made up a seal from a piece of thicker rubber. STILL LEAKS! :gdit: :gdit: :gdit:

I suspect you will over fuel. The injectors will deliver the fuel based on 2L requirements, but I don't know whether anyone knows if there is any compensation for airflow at a certain throttle position? Also the EFI head had small recesses at the top of the inlet ports to accomodate the injectors - have you done this? Be careful also with the lift of a 2L cam. I don't know whether it is any different but the older 1600 engines had a shorther stroke than the later units, with shallower combustion chambers. Be careful you don't end up with valve / piston contact. Is a 1600 pinto really worth that much work? I'd drop a 2L in if you want more performance. Get an EFI head and fit that with the injection and really notice the difference.

Local motor factors sell them without any problem - I've just bought a full engine gasket set for £30 - and they had it in stock! If they won't get them then Burton Power sell them.

I don't know what engine you have or how much of a rush you are in, but in the next month or two (once I have finished rebuilding the 2L engine) I am doing the 1.6 4spd to 2L/5spd conversion. My 1.6 has new cambelt, recently rebuilt ported head with new valve seals, brand new Weber 28/30DFTH and runs really, really well - far too good to throw away! PM me if you are interested in it and can wait - its still in and running, but I agree with Jim the 2L / 5spd is the way forward. There are about five 1.6 pintos on Ebay at the moment for a steal if that is all you want to do for now. Good luck!

I'm after a propshaft to fit a Sierra based car (mine's a Mk1 S7) for a type 9 gearbox - I am currently in the process of upgrading from a 1.6 / 4spd to 2.1 / 5 spd! Understand output splines and length of my current propshaft are wrong, even though it is not a 'doughnut' type. Many thanks

I agree that the longer stroke is probably the emax. Although I wasn't desperate for a reply, I thought it may help others - especially if they are looking at donors etc, or trying to buy spares, as the emax engines are not readily tuneable. I got fed up with trekking to / from the spares place with the wrong head gasket, cam belt etc!!! Thanks for the reply.

Confusion! Which 1.6 engine is really an emax? Des Hamill's book states all standard 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 engines share the same stroke with differing bores, and that the emax has a shorther stroke (66mm). My engine is a 66mm 'short' stroke but when I buy spares, the emax stuff relates to the smaller bore and longer stroke. Also, mine responded well to a twin choke weber and mild head porting recently (Emax is supposed to respond poorly to tuning) so I reckon this is the standard 1.6 engine. All older 1.6 pintos were 66mm bore. Any ideas? P.S. 2 ltr rebuild happening fast so won't have the 1.6 for long anyway! Will try and write up the 1.6 / 4spd to 2.1 / 5 spd up as a project.

I agree. I have a 1.6 with a mildly ported head - and got a new 28/30 DFTH off ebay for £15!! If you want my old one you can have it and try (PM me) if you like but it will be useless on a 2.0 and will run a 1.6 OK if a little breathless.

Personally I would be sceptical. I did a Banham X21 before and had trouble with details like this and ended up with 'Metro convertible'. Not correct - made that mistake and to get it registered properly you may need SVA. I'd walk away and buy another, or if the current owner will let you, speak to the DVLA about it to avoid trouble later. When was it registered?

Have you seen this link? Bit pricey but they may have a few others knocking around if no-one can find one at the back of their garage! I also discovered a little known graveyard of old Fords (and others) near me yesterday including some engines, if you PM me I will give you the details - the cars have been stood for some years however. Good luck. http://www.donorspares.co.uk/engines%20sec...and%20units.htm

If anyone has one of these for sale please let me know - mine has bent (don't know why, have not hit anything!) at the threaded end that the ball joint screws into, putting tracking and camber well out. Don't think bending it back is an option as I'll knacker the thread. If no-one has one, do you know where I could get one? R Hood unhelpful when called! Thanks

There were some 1.8 pinto's but the bits for them are not that common, also they are not as tuneable as the 1.6's and the 2.0's. I wouldn't start the engine without it being in the car unless you are really suspicious. If you want to avoid lots of risk you could whip the head off, check the piston / bore gaps, take the camshaft off and valves out and replace the seals (they often go causing smoke on start up and hot running). If all that looks OK oil the bores (if its going to be a while before built), decoke, rebuild and wait until its in the car to run it. Wouldn't guarantee bottom end though but Pinto's are pretty tough down there so I'd take the risk!!!

Are you sure your ignition timing is correct? If you've been playing around with the dizzy it may be well out. If you have a strobe connect it to no 1 lead (and to battery for power!!), remove any vacuum pipes from the dizzy and block them, run the engine at idle (preferably when hot)and check the timing is correct (not sure what the EFi settings are but the older units run at 8 deg BTDC.) If not slacken the locking bolt on the dizzy and turn it either way until you get the correct timing (best to paint a thin white mark on the pulley and block markers to line them up more easily). As things seen to have progressively got better when you mess around with the ignition, it would suggest that is where the problem is, if not everyone else sounds correct looking for air leaks etc. Good Luck.

Thanks all - great advice, especially from Big Jim - glad I didn't cut into that tub plate! Will let you know how I get on once I've got hold of a 2ltr lump..........

I've an old Weber 28/30 DFTH off a 1600 pinto if thats any good..........needs jets though and could do with a refurb but kits easy and cheap to get hold of, you are welcome to it!

Thanks!!! I don't think the plate is part of the tub? Problem is the steel plate covers the whole transmission tunnel underside and appears to be bolted to the tub on either side of the car so cannot see any of gearbox or prop shaft from underneath - only the end of prop at the diff. Can't see how I will disconnect speedo cable / reverse light cable etc if taking gearbox out through engine bay and would then have to withdraw engine, g/box and propshaft through engine bay? Very bizarre - has anyone else got this? Looked at it when I bought the car but wasn't planning on the upgrade then!

Thanks all for the great info. Looks like a winter job to me - and I'll have to sort a decent 2 litre pinto first. I feel a 'wanted' ad coming on............. I also have a strange St Steel under chassis plate on mine covering g/box, prop shaft etc connected up to the rear of the chassis - liberal use of cutting disk required for access!

Can I directly replace my 1600 (not E Max) pinto with a 2 litre in an S7? Have a 4 speed box and have heard it may not match up. Also have a 5 speed type 9 box from a Capri - would this fit with either engine? Any tips from anyone who has done this gratefully received.

Thought the show was OK. £9 entry for 2 of us in the Hood was not too bad, but was mostly disappointed in the lack of stalls, came with a list and only went home with a quarter of it! I could see camping facilities were not that great. Do you reckon Limelight could fix the weather to be that good again next year though??!!!!

The 1.6 pick up pipe could be from an E-Max engine. I've had trouble with different parts for pinto engines as the E-Max or '1600E' as the Ford dealers quote, are quite different from the older, short stroke 1600 engines. They share the 2.0 stroke with a smaller bore but some of the ancillaries are very different!