January 23, 200620 yr Just a minor point. You may be better leaving the floor support angle-irons till later as they need to be positioned to pick up the seat fixing bolts when you have worked out how far back to put your seats. I built 4 "plinths" from 18mm ply which were 18" high and stood the car on these. It gives good working access to underneath the car and saves an awful lot of back-ache from bending over to work on a car that is stood on the ground.
January 24, 200620 yr Hello bens grandad, Can you say where you live ? If its in our area we will be round !!! For the record, i built my 2b in this order.......... Floorpan Rear subframe and suspension Front suspension Steering rack Engine and Gearbox Radiator propshaft Tunnel side (driver) pedalbox / Steering column / servo handbrake brake pipes Fuel lines fueltank Bulkhead Dashboard Wiring loom and fuse box TEST DRIVE ! Tunnel side and top rear panel and rear wings side panels Bonnet and nosecone Windscreen Wipers Lights Seats and belts. any remaining trim etc. Mostly I didn't ''final fix'' anything until I was certain it would not have to come off again or be moved to suit another part. Do everything you can on the mechanicals before fitting any bodywork.Its easier to get your hands in ! The above sequence may not suit everyone, but i had to roll mine out each time I wanted to work on it. Good luck
January 24, 200620 yr Hi, As a builder of 2 x 2B - before you fix the floor pan to the chassis. - trial fit the rear axle cross bar. It will pull the chassis in down the sides - and stops the floor pan being wriggly.. Graham
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