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Posted

Just a minor point. You may be better leaving the floor support angle-irons till later as they need to be positioned to pick up the seat fixing bolts when you have worked out how far back to put your seats. I built 4 "plinths" from 18mm ply which were 18" high and stood the car on these. It gives good working access to underneath the car and saves an awful lot of back-ache from bending over to work on a car that is stood on the ground.

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Posted

Hello bens grandad,

Can you say where you live ? If its in our area we will be round !!!

 

For the record, i built my 2b in this order..........

 

Floorpan

Rear subframe and suspension

Front suspension

Steering rack

Engine and Gearbox

Radiator

propshaft

Tunnel side (driver)

pedalbox / Steering column / servo

handbrake

brake pipes

Fuel lines

fueltank

Bulkhead

Dashboard

Wiring loom and fuse box

TEST DRIVE !

Tunnel side and top

rear panel and rear wings

side panels

Bonnet and nosecone

Windscreen

Wipers

Lights

Seats and belts.

any remaining trim etc.

 

 

Mostly I didn't ''final fix'' anything until I was certain it would not have to come off

again or be moved to suit another part.

Do everything you can on the mechanicals before fitting any bodywork.Its easier to get your hands in !

 

 

The above sequence may not suit everyone, but i had to roll mine out each time I wanted to work on it.

 

Good luck

Posted

Hi,

 

As a builder of 2 x 2B - before you fix the floor pan to the chassis. - trial fit the rear axle cross bar. It will pull the chassis in down the sides - and stops the floor pan being wriggly..

 

Graham

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