New 2b - Chassis Prep

[Guest Dan_Beeston]

Hi All,

 

I have now got round to taking the plunge and plumped up my deposit for a 2B plus kit, now just need to get on with moving house and preparing the nursery (garage) for it's new arrival!

 

I have a question about the stainless chassis, I have heard it is best to paint it as it can corrode at the welds, but it seems many builders don't bother.

 

Should I paint it or leave it?, if painting is the way forward, what product is best to use? I've got buckets (not literally) of black hammerite (smooth) lying around, is this good enough or do I need something specialised?

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

[DAVE CASTLE]

Paint it mine is rusty all over , wish i had done mine but

being stainless i assumed it wouldn`t rust how wrong i was.

Dave

[Guest Battery Bill]

Dan

We have painted some bits and not other bits, but no corrosion is rearing its ugly head yet (15 months and 8000+ miles later)

Poor old Dave lives near a Salt mine

[steve in stockport]

dont use hammerite it chips off if you even look at it wrong.

 

have a look around and find something better

 

i,ve got a mild chassis and used red oxide primer followed by dulux weather shield undercoat and gloss black for the majority and plasticote spray enamel and primer on the rollbar and headlamp mountings.

 

no special equipment required and overcoatable at any time.

 

done 1 winter so far with no problems

 

Steve

[Guest docter fox]

some people don't like hammerite but I've used it for the rear susp on mine I'll see how long it lasts...

[Guest Battery Bill]

James

Remember "Steve from Stockport" is one of Big Jims cronies so he is bound to give Hammerite bad press

We have used Hammerite and found it to be perfectly good

 

Right I had best be off now

[swan]

"Right I had best be off now "

 

whats this running to hide before big Jim catches up with you

 

swan

[enforcer]

I wire-brushed all the welds and covered them in a few coats of clear laquer. I too did not believe that it was necessary to paint the chassis, after all I had paid another £200 for a 'rust-free' option.

 

Around the cockpit, engine bay etc there is still no signs of rust, but around the rear suspension there is a good covering now. I know the chassis tubes are 2mm thick and are not likely to be compromised for many years, but it is still disappointing. If I was ever to do this again I would paint the chassis anyway.

 

I used hammerite for the rear axle, drums etc and have had no problems whatsoever. For more exposed and visible parts I used standard automotive spray paint.

[Jon Bradbury]

Hammerite is fine if you follow the instructions properly, especially as regards recoating.

 

I've used that Plasti-Cote stuff too. It went on OK, with primer / undercoat in a mini-spray booth (heated) but a few years on there's rust. Nothing major, so I'm not too bothered by it. The rear subchassis was degreased, wirebrished and rubbed down (it was in very good nick rust-wise as the diff had sprung a leak). Then two coats of Hammerite, properly applied (according to the instructions) with a brush. It all still looks fab, after 4 years although my mileage is low.

 

Bear in mind the properties of Hammerite when choosing it. It never dries hard, but stays slightly plastic and I think this is one of the reasons why it comes off so easily. Use it on a part that is unlikely to be impacted by stones or tools and you'll do OK.

 

If you're going to paint the chassis I'd grind the weld spatter off first and then get it powder coated. Costly, but pretty. Just remember that during the course of the build, there are going to be many opprtunities for scratches to occur.

[Grim]

i've got an older stainless 2b, and don't seem to have any problem? ok i occasionally see a little tarnish on the roll over hoop, but that rubs off with a quick wipe.

[enforcer]

If you're going to paint the chassis I'd grind the weld spatter off first and then get it powder coated. Costly, but pretty.

I did consider having the chassis powder coated, but ruled it out considering the number of jobs which require a panel to be planished over a chassis rail, such as the tunnel top or rear panel. I cannot imagine any powder coating standing up to repeated strikes with the old 24oz Richard Stewart screwdriver.

[Guest craig030774]

powder coating is fine but if it gets chipped and water goes under it will rot away like mad so many bikers have found this out.

i used tractol which is a chassis paint it can be painted straight on or thinned and sprayed and it is cheaper than hammerite

[steve in stockport]

James

Remember "Steve from Stockport" is one of Big Jims cronies

 

nearly choked on my sandwich laughing

 

Steve

[Guest chris brown]

some people don't like hammerite

That’s not true is it Jim? It’s good for iron fences and gates but should never be put anywhere near a car unless it’s in the tin holding the garage door open (quote from Jim). BTW I’m one of Jims cronies now am I Bill?

but it is still disappointing

It would be even more disappointing if it hasn’t rusted as it would have started cracking by now as high grade stainless as used for tablewhere is far to brittle to use as a chassis.

[Guest Dan_Beeston]

Craig, you mentioned tractol, can you recommend a supplier for that?

 

Cheers,

 

Dan