Rear Suspension

[Guest jasonmorris]

On my series 2 i have had a knocking on the near side rear suspension for quite some time. I have until recently been unable to find the problem. So i contacted the previous owner, who informed me that he had exactly the same problem with the offside.

 

What happened was that the bolt that secures the front pivot point of the trailing arm to the bracket plate that fixes under the seat had worked loose. This caused the bolt to elongate the whole in the mounting plate in which it woult then rattle around. The previous owner tried to purchase a new bracket off RH but was unsuccessful. He ended up welding a large washer to the plate and then built up the metal around it.

 

I suspect this is what has happened to the nearside also. Each time i tighten the bolt/nut that goes through the pivot point, due to the rattling the nut works loose. I have to tighten this litterally each time i drive the car.

 

My questions are:

1. Does anyone know where I can get a whole new braket?

2. If I weld a washer to the bracket how does this affect the poly/nylon bush that is in place?

3. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

4. Does anyone know of a small portable gas welding set-up as my garage has no electricity?

 

Any help or previous experience knowledge is apreciated.

 

Jason

[Guest chris brown]

My questions are:

1. Does anyone know where I can get a whole new braket?

2. If I weld a washer to the bracket how does this affect the poly/nylon bush that is in place?

3. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

4. Does anyone know of a small portable gas welding set-up as my garage has no electricity?

1/. I suspect this is a non starter the only way would be to make your own.

2/. This seems to be the answer but the bush must be removed first. As you have asked about getting a new bracket I take it that it can be removed. Then it can be taken to where it can be welded.

3/. Don’t know but I don’t remember anyone having a problem

4/. Gas welding equipment is not cheap and requires a license (rental agreement) from BOC who then hire you the bottles much cheaper to buy a MIG and do your welding where you can get access to electricity.

[Guest Battery Bill]

Jason

 

Why not weld (Or get welded) a heavy washer onto the bolt, then you would not need to weld near the bush?

 

Like Chris says it is deff a Do it Yourself job.

 

 

If you get stuck Rotherham to Lincoln is a nice little run

[Guest chris brown]

Jason

 

Why not weld (Or get welded) a heavy washer onto the bolt, then you would not need to weld near the bush?

That wouldn’t stop the bolt moving in the egg shaped hole. (well they usually go egg shaped)

[Guest Battery Bill]

oops missed the "Egg shaped" bit

But it could still be done this way welding a larger washer to the bolt, then all he needs is to enlarge the hole in the bracket and put in a packer (Piece of pipe etc)

 

I know what I mean anyway

[Guest jasonmorris]

At the minute my car is housed in an offsite garage with no leccy at all, otherwise i would have bought myself a nice little mig welder last week and had a go.

 

Using a piece of pipe seems an ineresting idea Bill, might give that a go.

 

Jason

[Snapperpaul]

Another option is to remove the plate completely and use it as a pattern. Now these plates are quite thick so you may want to take it to an engineering shop to have it bent

[Guest jasonmorris]

Remove the plate! Chance would be a nice thing.

 

I stripped the nearside rear suspension down on Saturday, took me about 4 hours. Couldn't get the bolt out that holds the trailing arm in place. Also i could not see how to remove the bracket, with the bolt in it. The bolt is longer than the space available between the bracket and the monocoque chassis.

 

Also there is a nylon/poly bush fitted to this joint and the bolt seems quite loose inside, should this be a tight fit or have a metal tube liner?

 

If anyone has any suggestions, they would be most welcome as my 4 hours on Saturday were totally wasted.

 

Jason

[Shandylegs]

Jason

 

where in Rotherham are you based?

 

Thanks

Duncan

[Guest jasonmorris]

Hi Duncan,

 

I am in Swinton near wath.

 

Where in Barnsley are you?

 

Jason

[Shandylegs]

Jason

 

originally from Anston, but have close ties with Brecks / Stag area. If you are still struggling give me a shout and I'm sure it can be sorted out.

 

Thanks

Duncan

[Guest jasonmorris]

Thanks for the offer Duncan. Maybe I am doing something wrong or not dismantling in the correct way in order to remove this plate in order to fix it. As soon as we get another dry weekend day I will be having another go (garage too small to work in), and at that point may be crying for help and advice

 

One of the obvious problems I have is that the series 2 is an older design and not many people have had experiences with these vehicles. Everything I do on the car is a learning excercise.

 

Jason

[Guest jasonmorris]

Ok, managed to strip the rear suspension down and get at the bolt that goes through the offside front pivot point in place. Problem is the bolt is longer than the space available to get it out which means i can't remove the offending plate/bracket in order to weld a good sized washer to it.

 

Does anyone have any idea how to remove said bracket in order for me to make the repairs? It has now got to the stage where each time i drive the car i have to tighten up this bolt, which is extremely dangerous.

 

Jason

[Peter Bell]

Any chance of some photos Jason?

[Longboarder]

I don't go with the consensus on this. The outer pivot of the swing arm is located by the brackets welded to the cross beam. The centre of the pivot bush should have a steel crush tube through which the pivot bolt passes. The crush tube and brackets should be held solid by the through bolt as the crush tube is not intended to move. If the bolt has slackened it will lead to ovalising of the holes in the brackets which then allows movement of the bolt and crush tube leading to wear of the inner surfaces of the brackets and wear of the ends of the crush tube. It is this effective shortening of the crush tube which prevents tightening the bolt holding the crush tube solid and thus allows movement in the joint. The ovalising of the holes in the brackets does not need to be repaired and is not the problem.

 

A new bolt and nylock, bush, crush tube and suitable shim washers should fix it. I think Ford mount the bolt entering from the outside of the car. You may have to cut the head off the old bolt to remove it toward the centre of the car where there should be room.

 

Nigel