Robin Hood S7

[Guest Ad_W2001]

anyone's first kit car is always going to be an uphill struggle, I've learnt this on my lightweight that i purchased at the age of 18, thinking it would be something to do over the summer holiday!!! how wrong i was. I've been building it for ages now, but unfortunately only during my holidays from uni. I would say that if it's going to need a lot of fabrication that you cant do yourself, then it's probably best going for a more comprehensive kit, something that you are only going to need to by parts for, and make bracketry for and getting parts to fit properly etc, that can be done easily without loads of specialist gear. Just my thoughts, as im now bogged down in retro-fitting strengthening mods for mine.

 

Adam

[geoff shep]

After building mine i used to say to people that it was like doing a jigsaw - but without all the bits and without the picture on the box lid. If you only have the tub then getting the original right parts is unlikely. I think i'd go for something more comprehensive, or more current/standard so that you gan get standard parts to fit. You might be better to shift the gear you have, even at a small loss, than end up in an expensive dead end a coupe of years from now.

[Guest aso_06]

I've thought bought what every1 has said, im gonna go for it (PROBERLY THE WRONG DECISION!!!)

 

I know its gonna be a hard and at times difficult task, but i've spoke to people who have bought a complete kit and still have problems and things dont fit.

 

Some1's said I can have a manual.

 

I know this is gonna take a long time, but every1 at RHOCAR have been really helpfull and I hope they will still have in future.

 

Thank you

 

Cheers

[Nigel Rogers]

Andy,

 

RHOCAR has answered all the questions I have had so far, either through questions I have posted or searching the site . I'm sure you'll get there!

 

Cheers

Nige

[Snapperpaul]

Andy i will work on the vids and get them to you asap, take it gentle and start off by only doing/completing one thing at a time, then you can go on to multi tasking.

I only work at weekends and then only when the weather is OK ( outside no garage) 2 years ish and nearly there.

Don't be fooled by the amount of posts i have made there are many better qualified than me and this is the best club for kit builders.

At Total Kit car Live ( before i was slamed into the tyres) many kit manefacturers aknowledge how difficult it is to build a Robin Hood, however its more about tenacity than ability at this stage.

 

I have had several bad moments but joined the club, went to the shows, went to the local area meets and when really stuck called on Gingerfix, i am now on a high, have solved problems that would have made me sell on.

 

When you get a problem you can't think through, ask.

Now learn from my mistakes...... don't start upgrading before its on the road, the aim is to get a running car on the road and upgrade at your lesure. Keep it simple and you should be on the road at least a year sooner than i will be.

[geoff shep]

Just a thought - has anyone SVA'd a series3 car. Is there inherently anything which would prevent it passing. My monococque was pre-sva but wouldn't pass one without a lot of mods i don't think.

[Shandylegs]

There are a few additional areas that need to be looked at over and above the norm for later kits, such as: seatbelt mountings, seating, and rollbar, but plenty have passed since the SVA was introduced.

 

Thanks

Duncan

 

N.B. Good luck with the build. I didn't want to put you off in previous posts, just wanted to ensure you knew some of the problems that may be encountered!

[Guest Bazwaz]

Andy,

I know you've already decided to stick with what you've got but this may be worth watching. £480 reserve and already registered, could save a lot grief,

 

Barry

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROBIN-HOOD-S7-KIT-CA...1QQcmdZViewItem

[Snapperpaul]

Just a thought - has anyone SVA'd a series3 car. Is there inherently anything which would prevent it passing.

 

Biggest thing to deal with was the roll bar and i am still not sure if what i have done is correct. You need another bar across at just about shoulder height if you are going to mount the seatbelts and the whole roll bar needs to be 50mm x 2mm thick tube with plates welded to the bottom and reinforced under the boot floor, then bolts through the side tubes with anti crush tubes welded in then bolted through the chassis side again load spreading plates are worth doing at this stage. Rear mounting needs reinforcing and further bracing too the roll bar.

An extra load spreading plate where the diff bolts through the boot floor.

Big Jim has braced and reinforced the rear shock mounts and done some mods to the front suspension which are well worth concidering at this early stage.

There is no reason why with some care and reaserch into the SVA rules you should pass.

[Guest aso_06]

Andy,

I know you've already decided to stick with what you've got but this may be worth watching. £480 reserve and already registered, could save a lot grief,

 

Barry

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROBIN-HOOD-S7-KIT-CA...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

I've just got back bout 20 mins ago from picking my 1 up!!!!

 

If i'd checked this earlier I would have considered it, never mind S**T happens.

 

Soon as I can find the camera i'll take pics for you to have a look at.

 

Then i'll know if its an S7 or series 3, is there any specific pics you want??

 

Cheers

[Guest mikea]

I've just got back bout 20 mins ago from picking my 1 up!!!!

 

If i'd checked this earlier I would have considered it, never mind S**T happens.

 

Soon as I can find the camera i'll take pics for you to have a look at.

 

Then i'll know if its an S7 or series 3, is there any specific pics you want??

 

Cheers

 

 

If this is a new three (and I think it is) then the roll bar is OK for SVA. The seatbelts bolt on top of the cross bar. In addtion the bottom mountings for seatbelts and seats should also be fine (there should be plates underneath thre monocoque to take them). The roll bar is mounted on a substantial plate down the side of the tub and the rear uprights locate in the bottom of the roll hoop. My understanding is that these were the main differences on the new three (in addition to outboard front coils) compared to the three. The car was designed to pass the (then new) SVA.

[Guest aso_06]

I HAVE THE PIC'S NOW, BUT THERE TOO BIG TO ATTACH!

 

MY EMAIL ADDRESS IS AB81@HOTMAIL.CO.UK

 

IF YOU SEND ME A EMAIL I'LL FORWARD ON THE PICS

 

THEN WE CAN FIND WHAT IT IS A S7 OR A SERIES 3???

[Guest aso_06]

I HAVE THE PIC'S NOW, BUT THERE TOO BIG TO ATTACH!

 

MY EMAIL ADDRESS IS AB81@HOTMAIL.CO.UK

 

IF YOU SEND ME A EMAIL I'LL FORWARD ON THE PICS

 

THEN WE CAN FIND WHAT IT IS A S7 OR A SERIES 3???

 

 

PLEASE CAN SOMEONE GET IN TOUCH SO I CAN FORWARD SOME PICS, TO DECIDE IF ITS AN S7 OR SERIES 3!!!

 

PLEASE!!!!!

 

CHEERS

[Guest aso_06]

JUST WANTED TO SAY THANKS TO PAUL FOR SENDING ME THE VID'S, THANKS AGAIN, REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!

 

THANK YOU

[Mat-Moo]

Your keyboard seems to be stuck in CAPS LOCK... When you talk in caps it means your SHOUTING As for your pictures, take a look at http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=253